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HO Rivarossi 2-8-8-2 PRR Mallet needs refurb

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  • Member since
    November 2017
  • 153 posts
Posted by HOmainline on Thursday, February 14, 2019 5:46 PM

For the same question and more, I bought "Maintaining and Repairing Your Scale Model Trains" by Jim Volhard, published in 1999, on Amazon.  It's the only book I've yet seen dedicated solely to that topic.  Like all Kalmbach books, it has lots of detail and closeup photos.  It's a good complement to Mel's website too.

Kerry

  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
  • 11,439 posts
Posted by dknelson on Thursday, February 14, 2019 10:51 AM

Follow Mark P's advice on all drivers EXCEPT those that have the rubber tire more or less embedded in the driver tire surface.  Those rubber tires are what give these old Rivarossi engines their incredible pulling power. Replacing them involves undoing the valve gear and side rods and is not an easy task even assuming replacement rubber tires of the correct size can be found.  For that same reason be cautious about using solvents or even alcohol around them.

By the way -- I got mine when the list price was $29.95, but it was on sale for even less.  The PRR did not actually own any N&W Y6b 2-8-8-2s, but during WWII they did own some N&W Y3 2-8-8-2s which are somewhat similar but had different tenders. 

It is not difficult to remove the boiler/cab casting and get access to the motor.  Using micro-swabs it might be possible to clean old grease and dirt from the motor commutator and brushes, and relube the gearing with plastic compatible lubrication.  

Dave Nelson

  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: Wyoming, where men are men, and sheep are nervous!
  • 3,392 posts
Posted by Pruitt on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 7:10 PM

For cleaning the drivers, here's what I do:

1. Place the loco upside down in a foam cradle or some such

2. Attach power feeders as needed to make the loco run

3. Run the loco at medium or slightly faster speed

4. With a number 5 exacto blade in a handle, hold the blade perpendicular to the wheel or with the sharp edge slightly lagging the wheel rotation, blade point towards the flange, and slowly drag the blade point across the tread, using just enough pressure to start peeling away any gunk.

5. Do 4 a few times if necessary until the driver is shiny clean.

6. Repeat on all drivers.

Works like a charm on any locos, steam, diesels or electrics.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 6:53 PM

I tried to add a link to my blog but it didn’t work.  You will have to do a copy and paste.
 
 
 
EDIT:
 
I finally got it to work.

 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    December 2014
  • 443 posts
Posted by Wolf359 on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 6:48 PM

Hi. While I don't have the 2-8-8-2, I do have a Rivarossi 4-8-8-4 Big Boy that I just completed a major overhaul on, but I would imagine they have similer drive train. I don't know if you have the instructions for it, but if you don't HOseeker is a good place to find them. https://www.hoseeker.net/ Just click literature and scroll down to the Rivarossi section. As for the overhaul itself, the first thing I did is clean the wheels. I use a q-tip dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol for my loco wheels. You'll also want to clean any dust or lint off of the pick-ups that contact the wheels. I would also suggest removing the gear box/axel covers from the underside and clean any gunk or bad grease from the axels and drive gears and then re-oil them. That should be enough to get it in good working order. I hope this helps and good luck.

Edit: I forgot to mention that another place you'll want to lightly oil is the bearings on the motor and the rods on the drive wheels. I use Labelle 108, but just about any plastic safe light oil will work fine.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 6:29 PM

I have about 20 Rivarossi articulateds, 6 or so Y6B 2-8-8-2.  I’ve been restoring them for close to 20 years.  Send me a PM with your email address and I’ll be happy to help you get going.
 
The Rivarossi articulateds are very good locomotives.  With the exception of the “Pizza Cutter Flanges” I’ll put any one of my Rivarossi articulateds up against any high priced locomotives out there for looks and power.   
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    January 2019
  • 24 posts
Posted by panzerpete75 on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 5:55 PM

Thanks for the bump! I only have code 100 anyways (EZ-Track for now, have flextrack for when I build an actual layout, and hand-me-down brass I'm using as storage), so I don't mind the wheels. I found a source for the parts diagram for it online, just not sure what to look for inside the engine itself. It is only for casual use anyways, just would like to keep it running.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 5:41 PM

Giving your post a bump.  I know we have Rivarossi experts here.  Your wheels are called Pizza Cutters in the MR world. 

Don't sand your wheels.   90% isopropyl alcohol or lacquer thinner are preferred cleaners.  Don't slop lacquer thinner on your skin.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • 24 posts
HO Rivarossi 2-8-8-2 PRR Mallet needs refurb
Posted by panzerpete75 on Tuesday, February 12, 2019 4:53 PM

I've had one of the older Rivarossi 2-8-8-2 Pennsylvania Mallet engines for years, when my father bought it at a swap meet for $60 for me, and it was one of my favorite engines when I was growing up. It worked ok, except for stuttering at low speed, but was my most powerful loco by far. Now a few years later, it needs some work, as my younger self had no idea that my trains would need maintenance. The wheels on the engine and tender need to be cleaned, and I think I want to do some work on the inside components, but I'm not sure how to proceed with that sort of work. I've done an old Marx O-27 engine before, so I have the materials already, but I'm worried about this engine that is half the size. It says made in Italy on the bottom, and the driver flanges are quite tall, which research says is one of the older releases that runs best on code 100 track. Anybody have any experience working on these, who can provide some insight? I'm not wanting to do a remotor or anything crazy, just get it to work well on an oval of track.

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