Well, it's certainly true that most accents that we may be able to mimic by voice don't always come across so plainly when written. I'd guess, in general, the Canadian east-coast dialect to be closer to some Irish accents, but with regional nuances, too.A hundred miles-or-so north of where I'm located in southern Ontario, there are very distinctive accents in play, mostly in families who have been here for well over 100 years, their origins usually in Europe, but nevertheless widespread.Regardless of their languages' roots, most seem to have that particular manner of speaking.
I notice similar regional accents when visiting friends in the U.S., too, and always enjoy hearing them, especially some of the colloquialisms.
Wayne
Based on how Dr. Wayne squeezes every possible penny of value out of the plastic models he uses as raw material for his kitbashes, Scottish was a pretty good guess. Perhaps we'd be better kitbashers if we all wore kilts.
or drank more scotch.
Dave Nelson
doctorwayne I'm startin' t' t'ink dat she looked better wit' da paint on 'er.
I must have been reading it wrong, I thought it was supposed to be Scottish!
-Kevin
Living the dream.
dknelsonOh dear, somebody slipped a spoonful or two of Gern into Dr. Wayne's breakfast cereal (Red River most likely, eh?) and it's made him all giddy.
Yeah, sorry about that. I had a big bowl of this....
...for breakfast, and am back to normal....well, my normal, at least.
doctorwayne I dunno, Kevin, I'm startin' t' t'ink dat she looked better wit' da paint on 'er. Alt'o, if ya giv'er a workin'-over wit' a knife t' git ridda summa dat sodder, ya mite be able t' make sumpin' uv 'er. Iffen anybody kin do it, it'd be you. 'Scuse da east coaster accent, eh, but I bin talkin' t' muh son down der, eh, and it it sorta takes t'ings over sumtimes, yuh know. Wayne
I dunno, Kevin, I'm startin' t' t'ink dat she looked better wit' da paint on 'er.
Alt'o, if ya giv'er a workin'-over wit' a knife t' git ridda summa dat sodder, ya mite be able t' make sumpin' uv 'er. Iffen anybody kin do it, it'd be you.
'Scuse da east coaster accent, eh, but I bin talkin' t' muh son down der, eh, and it it sorta takes t'ings over sumtimes, yuh know.
Oh dear, somebody slipped a spoonful or two of Gern into Dr. Wayne's breakfast cereal (Red River most likely, eh?) and it's made him all giddy.
Well, hard to believe it has been a year. This one literally got pushed to back of the shelf. I found it again when I was cleaning out the workshop.
Sitting for a year did not get any of the paint to come off.
I also found the abrasive gun that I bought to try to blast the paint away. It came from China about ayear ao, but it still included a Coronavirus Mask.
I have this #13 glass shot to use to try to get the paint to come off.
I set the air pressure to 45 PSI and went at it. After an hour of effort, this is the best I was able to do.
It is a lot better than it was, and the remaining paint will just be scraped off with a #11 Xacto knife blade. Then I will be done with it and I can move onto detailing and paint.
error
SeeYou190If I use "traditional" paint stripper, what are the chances it would attack the solder,
Slim-to-none.
SeeYou190and what is the best way to clean it off of the model?
Mineral spirits, acetone or this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-32-oz-Paint-Stripper-After-Wash-QKSW94341/100234312
Have a disposable can or pail nearby to dump the old paint/paste into for disposal.
I've used cut-up pieces of old credit card/gift card type plastic to use as a scraper. Once most of the paint is off I use Scotchbrite pads dipped in the mineral spirits to clean away the rest of the gunk, then get into tiny cracks with tooth picks or skewers.
There's a "friendlier" citrus-based product available, too. I don't have any experience with that product, though.
Hope that helps, Ed
If I use "traditional" paint stripper, what are the chances it would attack the solder, and what is the best way to clean it off of the model?
.
The mention of a stripper used on aircraft brought back memories of the "yellow peril" we used when I was in the USAF. This stuff contained an acid and would definitely reach out and get your attention. It didn't like plastics either. I know because, I tried it. I also used to strip plastics with a lye solution, but used junk models from the different manufacturers to be sure they wouldn't be destroyed by the lye.
As far as the OP's caboose. It could be made into a decent model once that fingerprint is removed.
Kevin,
I second Eds suggestion on the regular stripper. We regularly need to work on aluminum bodies that can't be media blasted and either commercial stripper or aircraft paint stripper does the trick. All the other follow on treatments you do should still work but keep in mind most of the paint strippers are lye based not ethlyene glycol like brake fluid. J.R.
Have you given any thought to the traditional paste-type paint stripper?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-qt-Premium-Stripper-QKPS301SC/307995062
I don't think it would harm the brass. I've used this before on tough paint finishes. Remember to wear gloves. It begins to work almost immediately. I use an old toothbrush for scrubbing paint out of the details.
Good Luck, Ed
Well, this caboose has been soaking ib DOT-3 brake fluid for three weeks, and the paint is not coming off any since the last photo.
I have scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed, and just managed to knock off a couple of details.
The paint seems to be a serious issue with these models. This one is for sale on eBay right now in similar condition.
I guess I will need to scrape the paint off with an eXacto knife blade.
E-L man tom I believe with a little work, you can make a silk purse out of a sow's ear
That is what I am hoping to do. I will keep updating this thread as progress is made.
I will take the caboose out of the stripper bath on Sunday and give it another go.
Great "scores", Kevin! some time ago, I was at the tnen Caboose Hobbys and I saw a brass Erie class N3A caboose. They wanted $180.00 for that little gem. That's when i decided that I'd have to build my own cabooses of that class. I too would have been tempted by the B & O boxcar.
As for your caboose, I believe with a little work, you can make a silk purse out of a sow's ear there. looks like there are plenty of details that you've uncovered after stripping. What I've found is that the original paint on some models (especially the lower end ones), the paint is so thick that it covers up much of the finer molded-on details.
hon30critterThat box car looks terrific!
Thank you for the compliment.
I was very proud of that one. I painted the body black and white before the red went on. That is a technique used by military modelers to highlight flat surfaces. It turned out well on that one. I mixed the red paint using information from a historical society to get it right.
The $40.00 does not cover the cost of the kit, paint, trucks, and couplers. However, it was enough to be sure the person who bought it knew it was just not another boxcar.
I never sell much.
I get a table at the Scale Rails of Southwest Florida's train sho every year so I can be there before the doors open to get the real deals.
I am a little ashamed of the deal I got on the FP-7, but it was the asking price.
The same seller had a dynomometer car for $100.00 that I am having mixed feelings about not buying.
I guess that is post-non-purchase regret.
That box car looks terrific! I'm very reluctant to spend that sort of money on a box car, but I would be sorely tempted by that one.
The FP 9 looks really nice! You should be ashamed of yourself for the price you paid!
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
SeeYou190It was only $100.00 for the locomotive. I am quite happy.
Sometimes you can't even buy an empty Overland box for less than $100!
I'm glad to say that most of my model RR purchases have been what I would consider "below wholesale".
Thanks for sharing
Ed
Well... I seem to be on a run at train shows lately.
Today was the annual Scale Rails of Southwest Florida train show in Fort Myers. I had a table and sold this B&O boxcar for $40.00, and it went to a good fellow, so I am happy. I was very proud of this car, and I did good work. The person who bought it appreciated it. It was built from a Funaro and Camerlengo kit.
I also bought this brass FP-9 by Overland, It was mint in the box, probably never removed. It runs better than Athearn, not quite as good as Kato, but sure good enough, and it is beautiful.
It was only $100.00 for the locomotive. I am quite happy.
It will be a while before this beauty sees paint.
doctorwayneAnother choice would be Super Clean - I've had good success using it with both plastic and metal items.
Ditto!
I've had good results using lacquer thinner for stripping brass - that caboose would likely have been clean in less than half an hour. While I've used brake fluid to strip paint, some plastics don't respond well to it, and it completely destroyed an Atlas diesel shell, deforming it severely. I don't really like using it, as it seems messier than lacquer thinner or methyl hydrate.Another choice would be Super Clean - I've had good success using it with both plastic and metal items.
Brasstrains.com has a youtube video on stripping and painting brass. I've only watched part of it, Samhongsa behaved differently in paint stripper than the other model they stripped. One was lacquer thinner, the other aircraft stripper. Sorry I don't remember which was which.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Congratulations on your find Kevin.
I bet brake fluid works good for stripping paint. One of the main reasons I put Fender covers on the Mustang if I'm working on anything that has to do with brake fluid. One little drop of that stuff sure makes a nasty blemish on the fender.
I can't wait to see your Caboose finished. I have seen your work I'm sure you're excited to add that to your Fleet of Cabeese.
TF
BMMECNYCEven greater deal as that caboose is worth about $90, assuming the box came with it.
No box, but I give all my brass freight car boxes away anyway.
The model has soaked for almost a week, and the thick hard paint is putting up a good fight.
The model is back in the bath. I will try again in another week.
Even greater deal as that caboose is worth about $90, assuming the box came with it.
riogrande5761 rrinker Those are older than the Geeps. Acknowledged in last post. The SD7 I added DCC to, it was the older one with the big board with no DCC socket, one of those "cut here" types of boards that I just tosss anyway. I don;t recall any coupler issue - --Randy Mine has a DCC socket; must have been a later run than yours. But it still has the Athearn frame coupler mount which is that hunk of metal that a plastic cover simply clips over the horn hook coupler it comes with; it works with the horn hook but only nominally. I dislike those Athearn type coupler mounts that are same as the old Athearn blue box kind - and back when I bought those SD's it was most definitely an "issue" as I was pretty much a noob and didn't have specialy skills that some here take for granted. One article in a magazine back then, possibly MR, recommended filing a lot of the metal off the bottom of that metal coupler "post" so that it's even with the Kadee height guage and then drill and tap it and mount Kadee's in the traditional #5 box. Not a user friendly solution as really you would need to remove the motor and gears or wrap them well to keep metal filings away, where there would be a lot of it. Expect manual filing would be a lot of work or speed it up with a Dremel and the file it nice and flat - good dexerity required. Not my idea of fun hobby time really. There are probably other solutions but for beginners "user hostile" lets be honest. Of course all the mechanically inclined can over come it but it helps to be "handy". A good model RR engine shouldn't be sold this way and of course LL did change coupler mounts after that and rightly so.
rrinker Those are older than the Geeps.
Those are older than the Geeps.
Acknowledged in last post.
The SD7 I added DCC to, it was the older one with the big board with no DCC socket, one of those "cut here" types of boards that I just tosss anyway. I don;t recall any coupler issue - --Randy
--Randy
Mine has a DCC socket; must have been a later run than yours. But it still has the Athearn frame coupler mount which is that hunk of metal that a plastic cover simply clips over the horn hook coupler it comes with; it works with the horn hook but only nominally.
I dislike those Athearn type coupler mounts that are same as the old Athearn blue box kind - and back when I bought those SD's it was most definitely an "issue" as I was pretty much a noob and didn't have specialy skills that some here take for granted.
One article in a magazine back then, possibly MR, recommended filing a lot of the metal off the bottom of that metal coupler "post" so that it's even with the Kadee height guage and then drill and tap it and mount Kadee's in the traditional #5 box. Not a user friendly solution as really you would need to remove the motor and gears or wrap them well to keep metal filings away, where there would be a lot of it. Expect manual filing would be a lot of work or speed it up with a Dremel and the file it nice and flat - good dexerity required. Not my idea of fun hobby time really.
There are probably other solutions but for beginners "user hostile" lets be honest. Of course all the mechanically inclined can over come it but it helps to be "handy". A good model RR engine shouldn't be sold this way and of course LL did change coupler mounts after that and rightly so.
The coupler mounts on those frames are worse than Athearn BB, the covers don't even fit well. Filing and getting them the proper height is also a pain.
I suggest keeping the shells, but selling the old chassis. Pick up any SD7/9 with NMRA couplers and do a swap. You can file away little nubbies on the inside of the old run shells to fit the new chassis a lot easier than filing the old chassis to fit new couplers.
Sell the old chassis and the shell the new chassis came with separately on ebay and you'll probably push.
- Douglas
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 While I don't own any LL P2k GP7 or GP9's, I do own a pair of LL P2k SD7's and SD9's of similar or perhaps earlier vintage and they have those Athean clone chassis with the awful coupler mounts - horrible. Before they are active on the layout, they will need to be filed and couplers remounted. They have nice detail and operating cab doors.
While I don't own any LL P2k GP7 or GP9's, I do own a pair of LL P2k SD7's and SD9's of similar or perhaps earlier vintage and they have those Athean clone chassis with the awful coupler mounts - horrible. Before they are active on the layout, they will need to be filed and couplers remounted. They have nice detail and operating cab doors.
You've got the first run of those. The first run was the only run of SD7/9 that had those awful coupler mounts. LL made another bluish box run in RG paint with normal couplers. Look for the letters NMRA Couplers printed around the emblem.
LL/Walthers also produced a gray box run of RG SD7/9s.
All have the same drive and shell, although the old shells don't fit preceisely on the NMRA compatible frames. Not sure if they quit making the operating doors or not.