Great job getting a project on the rails!
.
I love it! I cannot wait to see what you are building in two years.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Nice to see something on your layout that was of your own making, adds a little personality. Dan
Lookin good! I think your doing a great job.
Mike.
My You Tube
Sorry, it's been a long time since I updated this, I have made a lot of progress. I made the roof out of cardstock, painted it black, and glued it on. the decks on either end are cardstock as well. The handrails are wire and stripwood. The handrails aren't done yet, waiting for glue to dry. As you can see, I have some paint touch up to do.
I purchased the Testors clear decal paper, but forgot to get the setting solution , so after painting is complete I will be decalling it for D&H, same as this caboose. I installed Cadee #5s. Here is the caboose with my other D&H cabooses.
Stay tuned,
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
As I mentioned before I was a real fan of these transfer cabeese at one time,...
Transfer Cabeese Another car(s) I fancy are those variety of transfer cabooses. I've got a whole box of 'stuff' set aside to kitbash some of these. And somewhere I have a few files loaded with photos of these little gems. Can't find mine at the moment, but here are google images... IMAGES
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
Part 2: Painting the Body
After the assembled body was completely dry, I washed it and applied Testors Flat Red.
Two coats were enough. I found to get minimal brush marks, I brushed most of the paint on a paper towel.
Next, I will be building the roof. -Harrison
Harrison,
I really hope you finish this project, no matter what goes wrong along the way, and keep it forever.
I don't know if you have ever seen this picture before. This is STRATTON & GILLETTE #4, an oil burning boxcab locomotive I built over 35 years ago when I was in High School.
This is one of the very most treasured models in my collection.
For those who like transfer cabooses of the "shed on a flatcar" (or tender frame) sort, I was going to suggest the Moloco kit but in going to their website they say they are sold out. In fact they are sold out of a fair number of parts. I sense from their website that they might be shifting over to an emphasis on RTR freight cars versus after market parts for modelers.
Dave Nelson
gmpullman hon30critter If I can add a suggestion, it looks to me that the sides of the door opening aren't quite straight. Try scribing the first few cuts very gently. That will make it easier to follow the straight edge. Once you have a decent groove to follow then you can apply more force. If I may butt-in with one more suggestion following along with Dave's advice. I see in your photos a "scalpel" shaped blade. Those may be good for some modeling chores but the universal "Exacto" style #11 blade is probably the best, and most frequently used type, for your scratchbuilding uses. You might want to keep some chisel type #17 blades handy, too. You can follow along a straight edge much better with one of these than you can with a curved type and less chance of the blade "walking" off the line. I find good quality bulk packages the best. These are the most recent I bought and I am extremely pleased with them: https://tinyurl.com/y9wystak The Excell brand knife handle is a good choice, too. https://tinyurl.com/y8qtbj5v Keep up your nice work and thanks for sharing (and allowing us old timers to poke you along a little) Good Luck, Ed
hon30critter If I can add a suggestion, it looks to me that the sides of the door opening aren't quite straight. Try scribing the first few cuts very gently. That will make it easier to follow the straight edge. Once you have a decent groove to follow then you can apply more force.
If I may butt-in with one more suggestion following along with Dave's advice. I see in your photos a "scalpel" shaped blade. Those may be good for some modeling chores but the universal "Exacto" style #11 blade is probably the best, and most frequently used type, for your scratchbuilding uses. You might want to keep some chisel type #17 blades handy, too.
You can follow along a straight edge much better with one of these than you can with a curved type and less chance of the blade "walking" off the line.
I find good quality bulk packages the best. These are the most recent I bought and I am extremely pleased with them:
https://tinyurl.com/y9wystak
The Excell brand knife handle is a good choice, too.
https://tinyurl.com/y8qtbj5v
Keep up your nice work and thanks for sharing (and allowing us old timers to poke you along a little)
Good Luck, Ed
Using the backside of a #11 blade that the pointy tip is missing makes a good scrib. It will mostly remove a tiny corkscrew piece of plastic with each pass. Removing plastic not displacing it. I like watching this build. Thank you Harrison.
hon30critterIf I can add a suggestion, it looks to me that the sides of the door opening aren't quite straight. Try scribing the first few cuts very gently. That will make it easier to follow the straight edge. Once you have a decent groove to follow then you can apply more force.
Gidday Harrison, a while back I started a thread on scratch building a depressed centre flat car using only, what I consider are, basic modellers hand tools. I see that you are using a small number of VERY basic hand tools, so “I doffs me cap to you” for having a go.
Ditto!
If you are on a budget the nibbling cutter that I suggested would be a waste of money despite how useful they are.
By the way, if you are using a blade to cut your window openings there really isn't any need to drill the hole first. Just score the styrene repeatedly and the window scrap piece will pop out.
If I can add a suggestion, it looks to me that the sides of the door opening aren't quite straight. Try scribing the first few cuts very gently. That will make it easier to follow the straight edge. Once you have a decent groove to follow then you can apply more force.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
There was a time I was VERY enamored with these transfer cabeese. I saved a whole bunch of different cars to use on future kitbashing projects. And I have a few brass ones, and just recently bought a really nice on at a local train show here in FL. I think I put photos of that one on the forum here.
HarrisonTo cut the openings for the windows, I drilled holes as big as I could, then I cut the rest out with a small knife.
Hi Harrison,
Interesting project!
If your going to do a bunch of projects like this that need window and door openings I suggest you consider investing in a nibbling cutter like this:
https://www.micromark.com/Nibbling-Cutter
With a little practise you can get the openings cut very close to the proper size, and the corners are nice and square.
I'm s-l-o-w-l-y working on one myself. I'm scratch building a MILW transfer caboose that sits in the ETERR's yard.
https://www.easttroyrr.org/
Last fall I had a chance to crawl all over und under it to get dimensions and pictures.
Working on the trucks, and soon building the frame and chassie.
Converting from coil springs to leaf springs.
This caboose started out it's life as a shop build tender. From underneath, the frame shows it's heavy construction.
Yours is MUCH farther than mine.
https://northcountrytrains.wordpress.com/2019/02/06/scratchbuilding-a-transfer-caboose-part-1-the-body/
https://northcountrytrains.wordpress.com/2019/02/14/scratchbuilding-a-transfer-caboose-part-3-putting-it-together/
I saw that another blogger was scratchbuilding a caboose, and I thought building a caboose would be fun. I decided to build a transfer caboose, similar to the one in the June 2010 model railroader. I started with a caboose platform from an old Tyco caboose.
I started by cutting out the templates from the June 2010 model railroader.
I next cut all the walls. Remember, Measure twice and cut once.
I next cut the window and door openings to the Article specifications.
To cut the openings for the windows, I drilled holes as big as I could, then I cut the rest out with a small knife.
I next installed the windows and doors, using superglue for fast drying action.
Once all of the walls were done, I test fitted them together. After some sanding and filing, the wall were ready to be assembled. I used square stripwood as corner braces. Superglue was again used for fast drying.
Finally, I test fitted the body on the frame.
Part 2 will cover painting, frame detailing, and roof. -Harrison