mbinsewi You mean, you can't put a pan of water on the stove? and heat to a boil? Mike.
You mean, you can't put a pan of water on the stove? and heat to a boil?
Mike.
The stove is the boss's domain. And she will not let me do anything where I could hurt myself.
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mbinsewiJust wondering how you made out.
haven't tried anything yet. plus we don't have "boiling " water here. somehow safety regulations limit temperature to 120 degrees F.
Just wondering how you made out.
I was checking out the thread on couplers for Athearn cars, and BayField Transfer RR mentioned dipping a warped box car frame in boiling water, and then laying it flat with some weight on it.
I was going to suggest a hot plate, but the boiling water thing sounds like it might work without damaging the part.
mbinsewi suddenly, disaster, just that fast.
There is a technical name for that, but I learned that a long time ago in a galaxy far, far, away.
You wouldn't believe how carefull I was trying to be, with the gun on low, suddenly, disaster, just that fast.
mbinsewiI looked at the instructions you posted, part "a", and it's like the main part of the whole car. Get it wrong, and it's done.
Absolutely correct.
Glad you told me about the heat gun. I was almost going to try that.
Maybe hot water, but I don't think my house water is hot enough.
Well Maxman, I can tell you from experience NOT to try the heat gun.
What I posted earlier in here about a semi trailer base being warped? The next day, after the desk light thing I tried, it was warped again, so I got out the heat gun, BAD idea. I didn't know when to stop, until before my very eyes, the trailer base twisted into a deformed piece of plastic, so quickly, that removing the heat gun did no good. It was almost instant.
I looked at the instructions you posted, part "a", and it's like the main part of the whole car. Get it wrong, and it's done.
I was going to try the microwave, but I grabbed the heat gun instead. I still might experiment with using the microwave, I have another disposable type car with a warped base.
Let us know what you end up doing. I'm still thinking on this.
hon30critter I would contact InterMountain. I have had superb customer service from them in the past. Dave
I would contact InterMountain. I have had superb customer service from them in the past.
Dave
As I mentioned above, that was the first thing I did. There was not a solution offered, nor were there parts available.
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Well, guess I was absolutely no help whatsoever.
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PennCentral99Is the wood deck actually wood?
Yes, appears to be. However, that is not the item in question. It is the main plastic body casting, identified as part A in the instructions, page 3:
https://www.intermountain-railway.com/customerservice/instructions/HO%2060%20Foot%20Wood%20Deck%20Flat%20Car.pdf
PennCentral99If this doesn't help, contact Intermountain, they're usually pretty good about offering solutions.
That was the first thing I tried. Not helpful.
Is the wood deck actually wood? I went to Intermountain's web site and it didn't really specify.
If it's wood, try soaking the wood in water until saturated. Then place on a flat surface and put weights on top of it to keep it flat until dry. In the woodworking world, to get straight wood to curve, they use lots of moisture to get the wood to bend, you'll be doing the opposite.
It it's plastic, placing it in hot water to soften it might help. Then place on a flat surface and put weights on top of it to keep it flat until cool.
If this doesn't help, contact Intermountain, they're usually pretty good about offering solutions.
Let us know how it works.
Terry
I was going to try using a heat gun, very carefully, but so far what I have done is working, and when I get the truck floor snapped into the body, a little cement will keep it there.
You have a different challenge with your flat car.
Yea, as far as truck bodies go, your right, only the prestressed flat beds have that crown, and as far as rail cars, only the TOFC flats seem to have a crown, as I noticed looking at the web site of a company that salvages TOFC flats, and makes bridges from them.
Good luck with your project.
SeeYou190floor was slightly too long, so it you forced it into place it would warp downward in the middle.
Not a floor issue. Car is unassembled.
mbinsewiNow if they were slightly warped to a crown, that would be prototypical.
Not sure if that would be prototypical. I think they only pre-stress truck trailers that way. In any event, the thing sags down in the middle. But I might try anyway. Thanks
I have only built one of these, for a friend.
.
On that kit, the floor was slightly too long, so it you forced it into place it would warp downward in the middle. I filed the floor shorter so it fit with a little bit of clearance.
I have not seen that car in years, so I do not know if it is still flat or not.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Not sure if this applies, but I have a few Walthers semi trailer kits, and some of the floor decks were warped.
I have a 60w light bulb in one of my desk lamps, on the bench, and it makes a nice source for heat.
I added weights to get the floor deck to flatten out, and positioned the lamp right over, and left it for the day.
Last night, when I went to close down the train room, the deck had flattened out. Still is flat this morning.
Don't know if that would work for you or not.
Now if they were slightly warped to a crown, that would be prototypical.
I have a couple of the IM wood deck 60' flatcar kits. Every one of them has a warped (sags in the middle) main frame. I have noticed that the RTR models have the same sag.
Anyone have an idea how to straighten this out?
Thanks