Yet another track cleaning question

[ATLANTIC CENTRAL]

Now pushing 50 years at this, alcohol has always worked for me.

Build your trains in a clean environment and you will not need to clean much track........

Sheldon

[BRAKIE]

I use denatured alcohol   on a shotgun cleaning patch and a Walthers bright boy as needed..I also found  track doesn't need to be squeaky clean to run trains.

[richhotrain]

bearman

After doing some more research, the Superclean idea has been abandoned.  That stuff has a pH of 12.5 - 13.8...talk about being caustic.  The safety data sheet also indicates that it could be corrosive to metal.  Well, back to denatured alcohol.

 

I tnink that you made a wise decision there. I use denatured alcohol to clean track, and it is superb. If the track needs a lighter cleaning, I just use 70% isopropyl alcohol.

Rich

[bearman]

After doing some more research, the Superclean idea has been abandoned.  That stuff has a pH of 12.5 - 13.8...talk about being caustic.  The safety data sheet also indicates that it could be corrosive to metal.  Well, back to denatured alcohol.

[Track fiddler]

Just like Reinventing the toothbrush, there always seems to be a never-ending desire to find the best way to clean track. 

Short and sweet, I do not believe in using any kind of abrasive to clean track.   Fact thereof, even microscopic indentations or scribes will just collect more dirt and give a more stable Foundation to build on. 

Short and sweet I believe CRC 2-26 or Automotive ATF are probably two of the best ways to go.  Evaluation of many discussions and debates by many lifetime model railroaders experience always seem to point to this.

Respectfully,  I am not reinventing the toothbrush here.  Just relaying positive results from research and some reliable sources.

TF

[mbinsewi]

peahrens

I noticed that the full strength SuperClean reacted with the paint and heated the solution significantly. I suspect it is a strong caustic cleaner. So, for one, handle the strong product with due caution.

Same here.  I stripped some Athearn streamline cars, some came clean, some not so much, same with locomotive shells.

I had the cars soaking in undiluted SC, in a throw-away type aluminum pan, good thing I set it in the wash tubs.  The next morning, the pan was disintegrating.

OOOps!  I digress,

Mike.

[peahrens]

Interesting question.  I used SuperClean to paint strip some old Athearn heavyweight cars, finding that denatured alcohol was better on some, while SuperClean was better on others.  Perhaps different paints on different runs. 

I noticed that the full strength SuperClean reacted with the paint and heated the solution significantly.  I suspect it is a strong caustic cleaner.  So, for one, handle the strong product with due caution.  

Now to your point.  With dilution, the SuperClean I imagine would do a good job of cleaning dirt from the rails.  Of course, a wipe with water would be required.  

I wonder, however, about whether just dirt removal is optimal.  Of course, a Bright Boy will lloosen the dirt and also remove the layer of oxidized nickle silver on the rail (I'm thinking).  So that results in a nice clean surface; nil dirt, nil oxidation.  (I gleamed my track, so do not use the BB).  IIRC, oxidized nickle silver atop the rail is conductive(??), so cleaning is more important than removing oxidation perhaps.  

I run a masonite pad car in my freight trains, which probably helps keep dirt loose and also removes some oxidized layer (I presume).  Occasionally I run a CMX car with denatured alcohol on the pad (I believe lacquer thinner is preferred by many) and the combination gives me good results.  I doubt that caustic liquid nor alcohol remove oxidation.  Some swear by routine use of metal polishes (actually the last gleaming step) that are very effective at removing the oxidation, but that returns of course. 

So, if just using a liquid cleaner, I wonder if denatured alcohol is not at least as good as a caustic cleaner, and does not require the 2nd water wipe step.  And handling the very strong SuperClean is something I plan to minimize.   

I never considered the difference between dirt removal and the oxidation issue, so find that interesting. 

[bearman]

In my continuing effort to find a way to clean track with a minimal amount of elbow grease, I am starting to think that Superclean might work.  It is a great paint stripper/degreaser, biodegradable, and does not attack plastic.  Anyone ever try it?  I have searched the comunity as it were and it doesn't appear that it is on anyone's track cleaning list.  I got in touch with the superclean people, and they have not heard of it as a track cleaner either, but suggested a 16:1 dilution, wipe it off within 45 seconds with a clean rag and thena quick wipe down with water.