mbinsewi OK, well, some people have figured out ways to mount the box to the shell, and they cut off the little casting that the plastic box snaps onto. The problem with using the little casting, which is part of the frame, Athearn's electrical path goes through the frame, and with metal couplers, say like Kadee's, that could cause a potential shorting problem, especially if you couple 2 Athearns together, back to back, unless you insulate the couple from making contact with the frame. I don't know much about Sargent couplers, if they are metal or not, but just passing this on FYI. Mike.
OK, well, some people have figured out ways to mount the box to the shell, and they cut off the little casting that the plastic box snaps onto.
The problem with using the little casting, which is part of the frame, Athearn's electrical path goes through the frame, and with metal couplers, say like Kadee's, that could cause a potential shorting problem, especially if you couple 2 Athearns together, back to back, unless you insulate the couple from making contact with the frame.
I don't know much about Sargent couplers, if they are metal or not, but just passing this on FYI.
Mike.
They are metal.
My You Tube
mbinsewi OK, Now I understand what you said in an earlier post: Oregon_Steamer Because I can't use Sergent couplers on my bachmann. Also Those are the models from a few years ago. I misunderstood that earlier. My bad. I like the 242 box, pretty much what I use for any conversion. May I ask, how did you fasten these to your blue box diesels? Mike.
OK, Now I understand what you said in an earlier post:
Oregon_Steamer Because I can't use Sergent couplers on my bachmann. Also Those are the models from a few years ago.
I misunderstood that earlier. My bad.
I like the 242 box, pretty much what I use for any conversion.
May I ask, how did you fasten these to your blue box diesels?
I havent yet they still have those snap on boxes they came with.
Oregon_SteamerBecause I can't use Sergent couplers on my bachmann. Also Those are the models from a few years ago.
mbinsewi Oregon_Steamer I can't say I am in love with them because of how their couplers are mounted. You mean with the plastic snap on box? There are lots of options, all involving Kadee couplers. A search of Kadee's site will show you what you can do. I think we've all given you many options for locomotives, I guess it's up to you. I don't know what Athearn diesels you have, but if they have have some performance issues, besides the couplers, that also is an easy fix. Mike.
Oregon_Steamer I can't say I am in love with them because of how their couplers are mounted.
You mean with the plastic snap on box? There are lots of options, all involving Kadee couplers.
A search of Kadee's site will show you what you can do.
I think we've all given you many options for locomotives, I guess it's up to you.
I don't know what Athearn diesels you have, but if they have have some performance issues, besides the couplers, that also is an easy fix.
As I stated before I am using Sergent Engineering Couplers, However I am using Kadee's 242 Gear Box and surprisingly the couplers fit like a charm.
Oregon_Steamer Here are the two Mikados I own. To me Mantua had reasonable detail on their final generation Mikados and Pacifics. Alls I am looking for is a brand of Diesels from the Steam or Transition era that are about the same level of detail as the two locos in the photo.
Here are the two Mikados I own.
To me Mantua had reasonable detail on their final generation Mikados and Pacifics.
Alls I am looking for is a brand of Diesels from the Steam or Transition era that are about the same level of detail as the two locos in the photo.
Based on your steamers I would suggest a Hobbytown of Boston RS-3.
All metal body, metal stantions and hand rails, minimal detailing, but will pull a ton.
https://hobbytownofboston.com/?page_id=61
Rick Jesionowski
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Oregon_SteamerI can't say I am in love with them because of how their couplers are mounted.
Eilif I'd second the suggestion of Athearn Blue Box. They're easy to find, easy to service, sturdy, etc. I like that I can hand them to my kids and not worry that something is going to be broken off. I've got quite a few that meet your criteria and I'm quite happy with them. Finding ones that have been assembled (often with added grabs and such) is easy and it's not too hard to find like-new unassembled versions. My local trainshop "Zientek" has quite a few NOS unbuilt BB locos.
I'd second the suggestion of Athearn Blue Box. They're easy to find, easy to service, sturdy, etc. I like that I can hand them to my kids and not worry that something is going to be broken off.
I've got quite a few that meet your criteria and I'm quite happy with them. Finding ones that have been assembled (often with added grabs and such) is easy and it's not too hard to find like-new unassembled versions. My local trainshop "Zientek" has quite a few NOS unbuilt BB locos.
I do own 3 of Bluebox-era Athearn Diesels.
I can't say I am in love with them because of how their couplers are mounted.
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rrebell xboxtravis7992 Maybe I'm the odd one out here, but I don't know why you would want to aim to purchase models that look like they were made 20 years ago. Unless its a cost saving measure, I see no reason not to be out there buying the modern stuff from Athearn, ScaleTrains, Bowser, Walthers, Rapido, etc. Even then, the convenience of being able to order directly online from a modern manufacturer seems like it would save the hassle of chasing down dozens of retired engines in random train shows. One online order from MB Klein, Walthers, or TrainLife could get me an entire fleet of modern models from any swath of railroad history I want, if I really bit the bullet to buy them all in one fell swoop. To get a fleet of old retired engines might save cash, but that would be a long process of eBay, swapmeets and train shows I don't really see as worthwhile. Just my two cents though. I'm curious to hear more of your reasoning for wanting older style engines. can't be cost saving, he owns a Sukura
xboxtravis7992 Maybe I'm the odd one out here, but I don't know why you would want to aim to purchase models that look like they were made 20 years ago. Unless its a cost saving measure, I see no reason not to be out there buying the modern stuff from Athearn, ScaleTrains, Bowser, Walthers, Rapido, etc. Even then, the convenience of being able to order directly online from a modern manufacturer seems like it would save the hassle of chasing down dozens of retired engines in random train shows. One online order from MB Klein, Walthers, or TrainLife could get me an entire fleet of modern models from any swath of railroad history I want, if I really bit the bullet to buy them all in one fell swoop. To get a fleet of old retired engines might save cash, but that would be a long process of eBay, swapmeets and train shows I don't really see as worthwhile. Just my two cents though. I'm curious to hear more of your reasoning for wanting older style engines.
Maybe I'm the odd one out here, but I don't know why you would want to aim to purchase models that look like they were made 20 years ago. Unless its a cost saving measure, I see no reason not to be out there buying the modern stuff from Athearn, ScaleTrains, Bowser, Walthers, Rapido, etc. Even then, the convenience of being able to order directly online from a modern manufacturer seems like it would save the hassle of chasing down dozens of retired engines in random train shows. One online order from MB Klein, Walthers, or TrainLife could get me an entire fleet of modern models from any swath of railroad history I want, if I really bit the bullet to buy them all in one fell swoop. To get a fleet of old retired engines might save cash, but that would be a long process of eBay, swapmeets and train shows I don't really see as worthwhile. Just my two cents though. I'm curious to hear more of your reasoning for wanting older style engines.
can't be cost saving, he owns a Sukura
You got that right.
It's not cost It's durability and compatability.
Diesels made by ATLAS TRAINMAN and WALTHERS TRAINLINE have simple details, few pilot details, and robust handrails. They typically run better than most Bachmann diesels.
I know Atlas makes an RS36 that's a nice loco. Their Trainman series requires the owner to buy the proper grab irons and install them on their own, but the model has drilling dimples as guides.
Also ATLAS CLASSIC SILVER makes a nice ALCO RS-11 that has separately applied metal grabirons but handrails that are on the thick side, as well as few pilot details. Same goes for the ALCO RS-1 and RS-3
If it was me, I'd buy one from the 2001 to 2012 vintages when they still had the Kato cloned motors. They pop up on ebay frequently.
All come with coupler boxes that can accomodate Kadees or NMRA Horn Hooks easily.
- Douglas
xboxtravis7992 I see no reason not to be out there buying the modern stuff from Athearn, ScaleTrains, Bowser, Walthers, Rapido, etc.
People get pretty ham-fisted at our club layout, and the newer, more detailed locomotives get broken easily. I'm afraid to leave my Bowsers and my (one) Athearn Genesis on the layout. Older locomotives like Athearn BB, Proto 1k and Walthers Mainline are perfect for our club -- they are durable, the mechanisms are strong and bulletproof, and there's little to get broken if someone lifts a unit off the rails a little too quickly.
I think the OP's time frame and need for metal 'rails narrows his choices, but the old stuff still has a place.
xboxtravis7992Athearn and Intermountain have a few GP and F units that would fit that era nicely, and Rapido has their own fair share of transition stuff to.
Yes they do! All nice stuff.
Although mentioning he's aiming for the transition era doesn't completely disavow all modern brands... Athearn and Intermountain have a few GP and F units that would fit that era nicely, and Rapido has their own fair share of transition stuff to.
But I can understand the frustration of grab irons breaking off... I had that happen to me trying to use a 0-5-0 to rerail a derailed tank car at an operation session I was at, and then having to go through 'reporting the car damage' to the railroads owner. Or that time my cousin's sent my Athearn SW1500 on a trip from table top to the floor and I had to re-glue a piece that fell of it due to that encounter with gravity. If durabiltiy is the primary goal then those simpler older locomotives probably have a lot of points ahead of the finer detailed units of now.
Oregon_SteamerWhat I am Looking for is this standard. Separatly fitted metal handrails. Simple Detail. Good pullers. Transition Era. Can accomidate any coupler. Does anyone make locomotives like that?
Not trying to speak for the OP, but, he makes it clear in his opening post about what he's looking for.
Sure, all the new stuff is great, but maybe he doesn't want the hassle of fine detail parts breaking, thin and fragile handrails, and all of the special care that's needed in handling some of the super detailed products of today.
I get his point. I bought a BMLA box car, and the first that happened, just getting it out of the box, I broke a piece of the very fragile break rigging off, next, while running it a train, one of the coupler cut levers came loose, and caused a derailment.
I get his point about not wanting all of that.
Also consider the transition era. That's F's, GP7, Alcos, etc. NOT Tier 4's, or SD45's, etc.
Just my view.
Well, MRC bought and I believe still sells the old line of Mantua metal F3s. Crude in details but certainly rugged. A colleague at the club has one, with DCC, and it runs and pulls well...
Simon
That would be a fine choice. I wasn't total sure what age of locomotive you had in mind.
Than the newer Atlas, such as the Trainman line would also be fine, along with some other manufacturers.
mbinsewi Well, I'll second Lone Wolf's comment on Athearn Blue Box diesels. Sturdy metal hand rails, a little over sized, but strong, cast on grabs, which can be replaced with real grabs, and many GP's and early SD's to choose from, although you have to find them on Ebay, and other trading sites, and train shows that have small vendors tables. Ebay always has some. They are great runners, easy to "overhaul" and keep running good, and easy to install DCC. You can put on whatever coupler you want. I'm not sure who your talking about with the Sergent couplers, you'll have to learn how to "quote" when you post, so the rest of know who you referring to. Yellow box Atlas would work just as well as Athearn, excellent runners and pullers, and also good for DCC conversion. Find the Atlas yellow box locos made in Japan, and you'll probably have a Kato drive train, which is great! You'll find them the same places you find Athearns. I guess it depends on what you want, EMD or the Alco's and models that Autonerd is talking about, and what purpose you want them for, switchers, road switchers, road diesels, etc. It sounds like you want something manufactured in the 90's or early 2000's ? to go with Mantua steamers, representing just before and during the tranision era? Mike.
Well, I'll second Lone Wolf's comment on Athearn Blue Box diesels. Sturdy metal hand rails, a little over sized, but strong, cast on grabs, which can be replaced with real grabs, and many GP's and early SD's to choose from, although you have to find them on Ebay, and other trading sites, and train shows that have small vendors tables. Ebay always has some.
They are great runners, easy to "overhaul" and keep running good, and easy to install DCC.
You can put on whatever coupler you want. I'm not sure who your talking about with the Sergent couplers, you'll have to learn how to "quote" when you post, so the rest of know who you referring to.
Yellow box Atlas would work just as well as Athearn, excellent runners and pullers, and also good for DCC conversion. Find the Atlas yellow box locos made in Japan, and you'll probably have a Kato drive train, which is great! You'll find them the same places you find Athearns.
I guess it depends on what you want, EMD or the Alco's and models that Autonerd is talking about, and what purpose you want them for, switchers, road switchers, road diesels, etc.
It sounds like you want something manufactured in the 90's or early 2000's ? to go with Mantua steamers, representing just before and during the tranision era?
Well I own a Couple of Mantua Mikados from the Late 90's/2000's, a General from the 70's, a Shifer from the 60's, and a Saruka Docksider.
The Diesels can be from recent years. I've been thinking of Adding on Walthers Mainline Diesels.
I also should note I am using Mainline Frieght cars as well.
Thanks Ed, I know about Sergent couplers, they look great, but I was referring to:
I wasn't sure what loco someone had mentioned that had Sergent couplers. Unless I totally miss read something, which happens with me
mbinsewi I'm not sure who your talking about with the Sergent couplers, you'll have to learn how to "quote" when you post, so the rest of know who you referring to.
http://www.sergentengineering.com/
Hope that helps, Ed
Bachmann's FAs/FB-2s are good pullers and have seperate handrails (I think they are plastic, but mine are pretty durable). They're just a bit late for transition era, though, as the FA-2s were produced from late 1950. Train World sells them DIRT CHEAP -- as low as $79 for FAs with sound and DCC (!) and $20 (!!) for DCC-ready FBs. Not the best pullers, but at those prices you can put together an A-B-B-A set pretty inexpensively.
https://www.trainworld.com/search/?bymanufacturer=5334&bycategory=&byscale=33&road_name=&electronics=&engine=897
If you're willing to buy used...
Stewart FTs and F3s are probably your best bet for transition era. You should also be able to dig up some old Stewart (or newer Bowser) Baldwin switchers and road-switchers.
If you're buying used, Life Like made Fairbanks-Morse Erie Builts (l1945-49) and C-Liners (1950-54). The Eries don't have seperate handrails, the Consolidateds do but they are plastic. They weigh a ton and pull like crazy. I recently bought a bunch on eBay and am looking for more. Some asking prices are crazy, but I'd hold out for $50 or less plus shipping (I paid $60 for an A-B set of Eries).
Despatch Hobbies in Rochester has a healthy stock of E-R models RF-16 Sharks, A-units only, which they sell for $55. Simple detail but no seperate handrails and the coupling distance is huge. I'm still debating whether to pick up any.
Hornby/Rivarossi made a FANTASTIC model of a U25C (recently, not the old ones from the 1970s). There's a guy on eBay selling them DCC ready for $75 and with ESU LokSound for $115. They have metal handrails with (prototypical) wide stantions and will pull tree stumps from the ground. Probably way too new for you, but if you're curious, search eBay for a seller called VRCHobbies.
HTH
Aaron
Oregon_Steamer Yesterday I sold all my Diesels "Which were Bachmann." Then I was wondering what Diesels would fit along side Mantua Steam from the 1990's-2000's. What I am Looking for is this standard. Separatly fitted metal handrails. Simple Detail. Good pullers. Transition Era. Can accomidate any coupler. Does anyone make locomotives like that?
Yesterday I sold all my Diesels "Which were Bachmann." Then I was wondering what Diesels would fit along side Mantua Steam from the 1990's-2000's.
What I am Looking for is this standard.
Does anyone make locomotives like that?
Sounds like Athearn blue box kit locomotives. Athearn doesn't make them anymore but you can find plenty of them at train shows or on eBay. Walthers Trainline is another choice except they have plastic handrails.
MisterBeasley Watch Walthers for sales on Mainline and Trainline engines. They are cheaper than expensive Proto models because they are less detailed, but have the same drives. Trainworld's and M.B. Klein often have them discounted, too.
Watch Walthers for sales on Mainline and Trainline engines. They are cheaper than expensive Proto models because they are less detailed, but have the same drives. Trainworld's and M.B. Klein often have them discounted, too.
The older Proto 1000 F3 engines were very good runners and pretty decent looking and basic detailing.
Why did you get rid of your Bachmann engines? The newer ones are better than those made just a few years ago.
While Bachmann has made improvements to older models, if having a basic shell that is somewhat close fidelity, from what I've seen the Bachman F7A still has the same flaws as the original Bachman Plus.
The normally forgiving MR reviews of that F7A shell pointed out the following (from memory):
- The batton strip on the pilot bottom justified but should have been center justified.
- The phase details were a mix of late and early, which probably did occur on some F7's in the 1960's as parts were cannibalized from some F units of a different phase and put on other F7's. But the main point here is the phase details were not conventional or typical, which is not a good thing for most.
IMO, probably the best bang for the buck are the older Stewart F units, which ave the silky smooth KATO chassis and a pretty good shell representing several phases of F3's, two phases of F7 (early and late) and F9's. They are heavy, run smooth and quiet and have a good shell, and can be found in the $50 - $70 price range, which these days is a good deal. Sure, I see some on Ebay for insane prices but just leave those be.
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