Loco Spins over Uncoupling Ramp

[htgguy]

Hi:

I have a LL P2K S-1 that runs absolutely beautiful. I cannot believe the slow speed smoothness it is capable of. My layout is just abuilding and since I am new at all this (30 years away from hobby) and just started installing Kadees on my rolling stock and installed my first uncoupling ramp, I have encountered a problem that I have not seen discussed on any forum.

When I run my loco over my Kadee 321 ramp, especially with a load of 2 or more cars at slow speed, it loses traction and spins. This is a problem when switching as it will stop and allow the delayed car to roll away far enough for the couplers to reengage when it catches up. Is this a common problem and is there a fix for it? I think the ramp is installed correctly as I used the Kadee gluing jig and the cars uncouple properly when the couplers are adjusted correctly. Appreciate any help.

Jim

[Anonymous]

I have four P2K four axle switchers. ALL of them do the same thing as do the occasional visiting switcher. I finally lowered the uncoupling ramps in the yards where the switchers were assigned and try to keep them to those area's. Apparently the problem is the gear housing covers on the bottom of each truck is too low.

Bob

[dehusman]

The uncoupling ramp is too high. Both Kadee and Bachmann sell a large magnet tha can be placed under the track that works well.

Dave H.

[rexhea]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dehusman

The uncoupling ramp is too high. Both Kadee and Bachmann sell a large magnet tha can be placed under the track that works well.

Dave H.

Right on Dave! The 321's are designed for code 100 track as is. However, with code 83, you have to cut the ties and roadbed or the magnet will be too high. Then you must use a 380-334 Kadee gluing jig to get the proper height. It's a real pill. I finally went with the under-the-track magnets #308 and have a very smooth and reliable operation.

Added Edit: Even with the #308's you may have to chisel a bit from your sub-roadbed to get the proper height under your ties. You can take off the reflector plate, but it also will weaken the magnetism.

REX

[Anonymous]

well, on the topic of magnets... Anyone have opinions of whether its worth installing them or just more trouble than its worth?

[rexhea]

QUOTE: Originally posted by JPM335

well, on the topic of magnets... Anyone have opinions of whether its worth installing them or just more trouble than its worth?

Joe,
I like to use them because it lessens the number of times I have to use my hands in the layout and the operation.
i.e., They provide another operation to perform with the loco.

They can be a pain sometimes, particularly if you don't use Kadee couplers or if your couplers are out of gauge. There are times when I will use an uncoupling probe, but I try to install magnets at every major point that will have a switching need.

REX

[htgguy]

dehusman and rexhea:

Thanks for the response. I am running Atlas code 100 flextrack, and I used the Kadee jig to install the magnet. Could it still be too high, and how high or low should it be? It does a good job of swinging properly adjusted couplers.

The reason I went with between the tracks magnets was because I thought they would be more reliable and as a beginner I wanted to eliminate as many variables as possible. Are the under the track magnets just as reliable, or are they touchier about uncoupling? Also, will they solve the problem of the loco hesitating or spinning over the magnet? TIA for any info.

Jim

[Anonymous]

When I install an uncoupler I use a steel ruler as a heigth gage. If I'm installing the magnet under the track (308) I lay the steel ruler on top of the cork and the magnet will be even with the top of the cork. If I'm installing the topside unit (# ?) I lay the steel ruler across the rails and notch the ties for a good fit. The second way assures me that the magnet will not be above the top of the rails, and make the loco "float".

I only have one magnet on the main line as it's out of reach, but I used them all over the yard. Every magnet is prone to uncouple the train (that's what they are supposed to do) and I don't want them uncoupeling my road trains so I use a sharpened swizzle stick on the main line.

Bob

[htgguy]

Hi all:

I lowered my ramp today and it was like magic, loco operates smoothly over ramp and cars continue to uncouple just fine. Thanks for the help!

Jim