Painting Northeastern Scale Model Clapboard Siding

[CandOsteam]

Speaking from years of experience scratchbuilding with basswood and now assembling laser kits, I give both sides of all wood piece a coat of wood sealer (Deft 37125015138 Lacquer Sanding Sealer Spray or clear Shellac), then apply solvent based paint (I still use Floquil (lacquer based), at least until my supply runs out), then go through the assembly process using carpenters glue or medium thickness CA, depending if the joint is high or low stress.

A trick to minimize warping is to paint both sides of the wood pieces (i.e, walls) - even more critical if you use water-based paints.

As other have suggested, bracing is important too, and some kit manufacturers like Blair Line recommends assembling the main walls first before painting to resist warpage.

Good luck.

 

Joel

[hon30critter]

I've always used cheap automotive spray primer to cover both sides of all of the parts of the wood kits except for the self adhesive pieces. Bar Mills models suggests using Walmart's cheap spray primer, partly because it has less pigment so it doesn't fill the details as much. They also suggest using KILS primer for aluminum roofing.

Something I like to do is paint all the parts before assembly. If both sides have been primed the parts won't warp. Painting the parts first, especially the detail bits like window and door frames, allows me to get a much sharper and straighter deliniation between the colours if the trim is not the same colour as the walls. Note that it will usually take several coats to hide the laser cut marks on the edges of the detail parts.

Doing any staining first will prevent problems with the glue preventing the stain from being absorbed consistently at the joints. However, any washes like India Ink should be done after assembly so that the wash can accumulate in the corners and crevices.

Bar Mills has some useful videos:

https://www.barmillsmodels.com/

Dave

[cnjman721]

Thanks guys. Been so long since I'd done a wood kit that I'd actually forgotten the technique of painting the inside first, then outside.

 

Thanks

[rrebell]

Just remember to brace it first, then most paints are fine depending on what effect you want. Been using cheap craft paints for some time now.

[RR_Mel]

As I model the early 50s I use Midwest 1/16” & 1/32” basswood siding and flooring for my scratch building.  I also use crafters Acrylic paint and the basswood warps.  I found a trick that helps retard the warping.  I paint the inside of the siding first with a dark Acrylic to prevent light leaks and let it warp, when it has fully dried I paint the out side and let it do its thing.  Almost every time it dries flat as a new sheet with only a touch of warp.

 

Most of my structures are stained with Acrylic crafters paint, some only have a little wood showing but all porches and stairs are stained.

 

I used the procedure above on this house (it was a craftsman kit back in 2010) and there was little on no warping on any of the walls or flooring.  I stained all of the siding and flooring before assembly,

 

 

 

This is a Mel scratch build from 2017 painted after assembly.

 

 

 

Both

 

 

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[UNCLEBUTCH]

I build a lot of scratch builds with wood, I don't paint untill its built and braced.Windows ,doors and roofing added after painting.

I don't use any primer, and use ''cheap'' craft paints,with brush,sponge,or airbrush.

This works for me,without any issues.

The few times I must paint small unbraced pieaces,I'll let them dry under weight

[cnjman721]

Beggin' your pardon for something that must have been covered here maybe decades ago, but here goes...

I've been collecting a few 1950's vintage wood structure kits and I'm curious as to the best way to paint parts like clapboard siding that's 1/16" thick. Should I prime it first? If so, any recommendations as to what type of primer to use? I've painted a few small (thin) pieces with water-based acryllic and they bow and warp, making me resort to trying to flatten them under weights.

Somehow it seems there must be a better way.

 

Thanks!

Ed