I have four Proto 2000 E8s I am putting together for my model railroad club’s freelance railroad. A friend of mine did the paint and decal work on the shells, and I have them back now for final assembly and other stuff.
I wanted to clear coat the shells first so that handling would not take off paint or decals. I used Testors Dullcote in a spray can, and shook it thoroughly for about 90 seconds. I applied the dullcote in warm and dry air (the stairs in my apartment building) and made several light coats on each side from about 8 inches away. I let it dry for several hours, and the result is this:
Needless to say, I am not thrilled, and I’m not sure what I did wrong. Is there a way to fix this?
Not sure why the image didn’t load on the initial post. It appears that I can’t edit it, so here they are:
Image still didn't load.
Mike.
My You Tube
Hi,
I used the "BB Code" and clicked the copy button, then in the MR reply text area simply hit Ctrl+V to paste the link.
Well, now I can't stop the remainder of my text from being a link! As far as the Dullcote. I've been there. Sometimes, mostly in fact, I get a nice flat finish. Other times I'll get a chalky "alligator-skin" finish. I have heard all the reasons from temperature/humidity spray angle/distance, etc. All I can suggest is try to re-shoot it a little heavier. Sometimes I think I'm putting on too heavy of a coating but it flashes off pretty quickly so you might try to get a slightly heavier coat on next time. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Good Luck, Ed
Well, now I can't stop the remainder of my text from being a link!
As far as the Dullcote. I've been there. Sometimes, mostly in fact, I get a nice flat finish. Other times I'll get a chalky "alligator-skin" finish. I have heard all the reasons from temperature/humidity spray angle/distance, etc.
All I can suggest is try to re-shoot it a little heavier. Sometimes I think I'm putting on too heavy of a coating but it flashes off pretty quickly so you might try to get a slightly heavier coat on next time.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Good Luck, Ed
P42DCI used Testors Dullcote in a spray can...
And there's the biggest potential problem. Dullcote from the spray can rarely gives a finsh comparable to Dullcote from a bottle, that's been thinned somewhat and run through an airbrush. You didn't necessarily do anything "wrong." You got the results that can more or less be expected from the method used.
Rob Spangler
It looks like what I get when I try to spray one light coat. Heavy coats actually turn out better.
An airbrush is best, and I have one, but I still use a spray can and have no complaints. I spray outside in the sun and it it looks like yours when wet, it will look like that dry.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
That rough looking finish would seem to indicate the dullcote dried before it actually hit the model. I agree with BigDaddy, I think you tried to make each coat too light. The only way I've ever used Dullcote was in the spray can, and maybe they've gotten lower in quality in the past few years, but I never got a sandy looking finish liek that and I am anything but an expert painter. I actually had good results with the Walmart store brand clear flat, big giant can for a fraction of the price of the tiny can of Dullcote. I only recently got an airbrush and all the accessories to use it (compressor, spray booth, etc) and I haven't had a chance to actually play around with it yet.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinkerI agree with BigDaddy,
I do too.
Ed
gmpullman rrinker I agree with BigDaddy, I do too. Ed
rrinker I agree with BigDaddy,
.
I also agree.
Just spray on another thicker coat, and you should be OK.
Not too thick... there is a skill to learn here.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
gmpullmanI used the "BB Code" and clicked the copy button, then in the MR reply text area simply hit Ctrl+V to paste the link.
Ed, where did you see the BB code, whatever that is? For me, the post only had text, and no hint of a picture, nothing.
Hi, Mike
In P42s original post, I clicked on the little box where the photo should be. That took me to the ibb site. There, in the lower left of the frame is a tab that says "embed" click that and you have options for linking and embedding. A "copy" button automatically appears. Click it, then paste the BB code (BulletinBoard code) into the text frame here in the reply box.
ibb_2 by Edmund, on Flickr
IBB_BBcode by Edmund, on Flickr
Hope that helps, Ed
OK, well I don't even get a little box, there is nothing but his text.
Thanks, back to the topic at hand.
Thanks for all the info everyone, I appreciate the help (and the fixing of my embedded images)! That’s good to hear that it is possible to fix with more dullcote. The poster who said I may have tried to apply the coats too light is absolutely correct. I was, ironically, making an effort to do that in order to avoid a bad finish like what I get anyway.
I will get myself a fresh can, just in case, and test the heavier coats on a scrap freight car shell. Should I apply it the same way I did before, and simply add more total coats? Or should I make each pass of the can slower?
Tamiya primer, from a spray can...
Pollyscale paint, airbrushed...
Testors Glosscote before decal application, airbrushed...
Testors Glosscote, airbrushed after decal application, and Testors Dullcote, airbushed immediately after the Glosscote...
Airbrushed weathering is next, perhaps followed by some brush-applied pastels - no more clear coats, though.
The airbrush gives more control over the application, both in the finish and in the amount of materials used. One bottle of Dullcote and some lacquer thinner will go a lot farther than one spray can of Dullcote.
Wayne
BigDaddy It looks like what I get when I try to spray one light coat. Heavy coats actually turn out better. An airbrush is best, and I have one, but I still use a spray can and have no complaints. I spray outside in the sun and it it looks like yours when wet, it will look like that dry.
kasskaboose BigDaddy It looks like what I get when I try to spray one light coat. Heavy coats actually turn out better. An airbrush is best, and I have one, but I still use a spray can and have no complaints. I spray outside in the sun and it it looks like yours when wet, it will look like that dry. Yup! Why would anyone spray such a thing indoors? I always do the smelly work outdoors.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
mbinsewiOK, well I don't even get a little box, there is nothing but his text.
I can see the box in Chrome but not Firefox
When using bbimg, instead of using the BB code, copy and paste the direct link. Then, click on "Insert/edit image" button on the forum menu, then paste the image information in the "Source" window in the pop-up window. Usually, when you insert the image that way, it will be huge. Don't worry, it will automatically resize the image when you post your comment.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Hmmm.... the BB code on Imgur starts with brackets enclosing IMG, not URL. Need some NMRA standards for BB code.
It (the imgur code) can be directly copied without any icons. The one good thing about the IT in this forum is it resizes all the large pics into the same size.
[ I M G ] IS the standard bbcode for a picture. [ U R L ] is bbcode for a link.
Use Model Masters flat, never had a proublem with that.
kasskaboose ....Why would anyone spray such a thing indoors? I always do the smelly work outdoors.
The finish you get when it's -20ºF is more cube-like, rather than pebbly or orange peel-like.
A vented spray booth and a two-stage respirator takes care of the smell.
rrebell Use Model Masters flat, never had a proublem with that.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
Bayfield Transfer Railway rrebell Use Model Masters flat, never had a proublem with that. I also have had much better results with Model Masters flat than Dullcote, despite both being Testors products.I don't know why, but it is so.
I also have had much better results with Model Masters flat than Dullcote, despite both being Testors products.I don't know why, but it is so.
Dullcote is a Lacquer solvent base.......Model Master is more of a mineral spirit base.
I would be curious to know what kind of paint the OP's friend used to paint the shells....that would make a big differance in the final result of the finish.....which looks to Me like it attacked the paint some what.
You just can't use Dullcote on all types of paint......if the dullcote was brushed on, it would have removed/mixed in with the painted finished and made a mess.
The finish on that shell reminds me of what the original Floquil paint did to the plastic on some brush paint jobs, called crazing.
Take Care!
Frank
I get acceptable results from DullCote using a rattle can (in my vented spray booth this time of year or outdoors in warm weather). As with others, I find what looks like a heavy liquid coating seems to end up better than trying to feather the spray with a light touch. The "old" formula for DullCote was even worse in that regard.
Having said that, the real key in my experience is shaking the can for a long time. Never less than a minute and ideally two full minutes. Some guys who use rattle can paints or finishes give the can the same dozen or so shakes that the shave cream can gets of a morning, and then complain about results That is just not enough.
Dave Nelson
I'd had good results with the can. Mine are stored in the basement, so this time of year, I warm the can a little with hot water.
Over did the warming thing once and the bottom of the can popped out, concave to convex, didn't come off, but it scared the heck out of me Obviously that's why the bottom is shaped that way.
It did seem like a heavy coat, but it was even, and dried nice and even.
Put me in the:1) Keep spray can warm2) Shake the can well(Aside - while I already knew these two point from experience, "The Terrain Tutor" Mel on his channel did a demo of the various finishes resulting from cold, barely shaken spray paint to warm, well shaken spray paint - as could be expected, the warm shaken paint was smoother with less blotchy coverage.3) Tamiya paint gets Tamiya clear coats (flat or clear) - looks good if done right, but a bit pricey; Model Master and Testors (and other such paint) gets Model Master clear coats (unless something with normally rough texture like junk piles or sign-posts or brick-work or...well, human figures - those get Testors Dull-coat).I've come down firmly in the "Everything gets a coat of primer" by the way, and use the now manadatory Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2x - so I have had no funky reactions between this undercoat and whatever cover coat I apply (I always wait at least 1 day, and usually more, before applying dissimilar coats).So, TL;DR1) Warm paint2) Well Mixed paint3) Make sure dissimilar paints coats are compatible with each other