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Painting Structures

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  • Member since
    January 2002
  • 2 posts
Painting Structures
Posted by Digger1 on Thursday, December 30, 2004 3:10 PM
Help!!! advise required about the best paint to use when painting laser kits which mainly consist of wooden parts. Any tips or techniques would be most[%-)][?] welcome. Many thanks

Digger1
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Out on the Briny Ocean Tossed
  • 4,238 posts
Posted by Fergmiester on Thursday, December 30, 2004 3:43 PM
The key with wood is to use a primer. Once the wood is sealed then you can use just about any type of paint you want. Your LHS can help you. personally I use thinned tole paints. If you use to thick a paint you'll loose the crisp detail look.

Fergie

http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5959

If one could roll back the hands of time... They would be waiting for the next train into the future. A. H. Francey 1921-2007  

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 30, 2004 4:02 PM
Hi Digger1

I've been producing my own laser-cut structure kits for my own layout and some for sale. Since starting this project, I've been experimenting with various painting methods and the one that's worked best for me is to use a water-based acrylic paint. I've had good luck with Folk Art brand paints. They are inexpensive, not toxic, apply and clean easily, are available at craft shops and a small bottle goes a long way. It is also very forgiving if you over or under paint.

I thin them a bit with water and use a small piece of sponge to apply the main color paint to the walls. The sponge helps to cover a large area quickly, but more importanly, it covers evenly. When I have the wood laser cut, I have the siding etched at the same time and the grooves are very shallow. Thinning the paints helps to keep these lines from being filled with pigment. If the paint is too thin, it's easy to thicken it slightly and apply more. If you think you've applied to much and the detal is no longer clear, simply hold under running water and rub gently with a clean piece of sponge. Then thin the paint and try again.

The sponge should be a soft, closed-cell type that will soak the paint up easily and spread it smoothly. Coarse sponges don't work well.

It's important to note that if you use basswood, it is going to curl up at the merest hint of moisture so plan ahead as to how you're going to keep it flat while drying. On small pieces, I've let them air dry for a few minutes to soak up the pigment and then placed them between paper towels and weighted them down with a piece of 1x6 and some books on top. You can also try pinning them to a plank with some push-pins along the edges and in the openings. I've also simply laid butter knives across them and set heavy objects on the ends.

I've cut some kits w/ 1/16" plywood and had little warping problems.

A fine tipped brush and a steady hand to paint trim is helpful. Keep your brushes, sponges and paint dishes clean to prevent dried paint from clogging the fine detail of your project.

Hope this method works for you. Others will no doubt offer their favorite methods.

Wayne
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Midtown Sacramento
  • 3,340 posts
Posted by Jetrock on Thursday, December 30, 2004 5:41 PM
One tip to reduce wood curling when painted: Paint both sides. Part of the expansion is due to moisture filling the wood--if it fills on both sides the expansion will be more equal.

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