Building complicated rolling stock kits, LLP2K, Inter-mountain, Red Caboose, Branchline, etc..

[Anonymous]

rexhea, You invalidated my method of placing liquid cement, by telling us to "Forget the bottle brush"! Why not say it "I have found this method of applying liquid cement to work well for me..." My method of applying glue with my bottle brush works very well for me and having tried most other methods is the one I am sticking with. It works great and may well work great for many others!

[rambo1]

I love any of these kits and will spend any amount of time to work on them.You work slowly and carefully and when finished look at the beautiful model you have created. I have a whole cuboard full. rambo1....... Lovethem..........

[Ibflattop]

Hey these kits are more fun than a Shake -a - Box kit!!!
I have gotten a pick from my dentist that I have put a fine point on the tip to apply my cement from the bottle. Infact that is where I have gotten all of my picks and scribes from is my dentist. Heck there is a couple of us that my dentist says "that We always ask for his picks " There is a tip for you guys!!!!!! Kevin

[Anonymous]

Yes the Berwick Cars are a lot easier to build than the other other cars in the Blueprint Series.

Rick

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Trainnut1250

I pour out a 1/4" diameter pool of glue on my modeling board and then dip parts into it with tweezers. Works great for plastic grabs etc. The amount of glue is so small that the fumes are not a problem and it dries up to practically nothing, so you can keep using the same spots. I find that this method avoids getting too much glue on stuff and allows for working pretty quickly.

For large parts I will use a piece of wire to put small amounts of glue on or the needle applicator tip on the glue bottle for really big areas.

Guy

I started a Campbell Thru Timber Bridge kit last night and a good way to apply glue is to make a puddle and dip the parts into it. When I was building my CMR turntable, the glue in the bottle with the long neck neddle was the best. It just depends on what the joint requires.

Bob

[Anonymous]

I pour out a 1/4" diameter pool of glue on my modeling board and then dip parts into it with tweezers. Works great for plastic grabs etc. The amount of glue is so small that the fumes are not a problem and it dries up to practically nothing, so you can keep using the same spots. I find that this method avoids getting too much glue on stuff and allows for working pretty quickly.

For large parts I will use a piece of wire to put small amounts of glue on or the needle applicator tip on the glue bottle for really big areas.

Guy

[ericsp]

I bought three Branchline Trains Berwick boxcars (and have plans to buy more). I did not find them difficult to assemble. Are these easier to assemble than other Branchline Trains cars? They are in the Blueprint Series.

[Anonymous]

What I use to apply liquid plastic cement is the bru***hat comes with the bottle for doing large areas and most hobby shops have little plastic sticks with a small cotton swab at the end that I use for precise application of the liquid cement..

Rick

[rexhea]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cjm89

What does everyone use to apply liquid plastic cement? I've been trying several different things but have not found a way I like yet, so does anyone have suggestions?

CJM89
Forget the brush in the bottle. Go to Walthers catalog and look up the manufacturer "A-West" that is in the Adhesives section. They have stainless needlepoint applicator bottles that come with several different sizes of needles to apply liquid cement. The three I use most is the .016, .020, and the .025. My favorite is to use the plastic solvent cement made by Plastruc, Plastic Weld.

REX


REX

[Anonymous]

cjm29, I describe how I use Testers liquid cement in the original post on this thread.

htgguy, I use Super Glue when I need to glue metal parts to a car, i.e. metal grabs. Also, LLP2K, Intermountain, Red Caboose, Branchline Blue Print, etc. are all about the same. One of the fellows above stated he thinks LLP2K to be the more difficult kits. I don't feel this way.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cjm89

What does everyone use to apply liquid plastic cement? I've been trying several different things but have not found a way I like yet, so does anyone have suggestions?

my favorites is a tiny brush. also you can use a metal tube with a diameter of about 0.5mm. hope it helps!

[htgguy]

Hi guys:

I am just returning to the hobby for the first time since teenage years. Two of the first kits I decided to try were of the LL P2K 4427 variety. They are tough. I have the first one approx. 75% complete and look forward to the next. I do have to admit there are a couple of tiny parts that might be missing on the completed item, though.

When do you use "superglue"? I have found it to be helpful in some of the steps on this kit. I don't know what the drawbacks are, if any.

How do these kits compare to some of the others being discussed? Easier, harder, about the same? It helps to know what I would be dealing with prior to purchase. The CH's I am building are much tougher, yet more detailed, than I expected.

[Anonymous]

What does everyone use to apply liquid plastic cement? I've been trying several different things but have not found a way I like yet, so does anyone have suggestions?

[Anonymous]

When I was talking about using a knife to free parts from sprues, I was only talking about the tiny fragile parts. I use a sprue cutter all the time on large parts. Actually I don't use a #11 on sprues. I use a #16 blade. It has a small edge which fits into the sprues better.

Also, when removing the fragile parts from the sprue, a lot of times you can remove some of the stress by judiciously removing or cutting away parts of the sprues which may cause stress.

Raynbecky, You make me feel lucky, I have only had a few minor accidents with with Exacto blades and I have probably been using them for 45 years!

[raynbecky]

I have had great luck with sprue cutters. I have large ones made by Testors and smaller ones for fine parts. These things make it SO much easier for me to work on my models. I have more #11 knife scars on my hands than I care to admit, including a couple of close calls with major arteries and viens. Yes, I use sharp blades. I replace a blade with every model I build, sometimes I use more than one blade on a single model. I also build models as well as model trains. I use the knife holders and disposal units too for safety but have still cut myself, mostly when trying to cut very large sprues. Those sprue cutters have made the hobby much more enjoyable and safer for me. I have personally built 5 of the IM cars using both of those sprue cutters and have yet to damage anything. I have also built a couple of the LL 4427 cars too, no problems. I need large numbers of these car types so I like to get them on the cheap and don't mind building the kits.

[Anonymous]

The handful of these kits that have turnout out well for me are a source of pride! I have some health issues which often result in a less steady hand than I would like to have. It seems that when I have the modeling time it's because I did some other work that needed to be done and it has left my hands a bit unsteady and I do believe that things like taking care of the home, etc. should have priority. The net result is, if I built these kits exclusively I'd have only a few cars on the layout. I build the shake the box stuff, I buy some ready to run and I take on a Branchline Blueprint series too from time to time. For me, there is a use for all of the various types of kits out there.

[atsf118]

Try a single edge razor blade on the real fragile parts, works better than the #11 blade.

[Anonymous]

I build these type of kits exclusively and I would say that it takes longer to cut off the the parts and clean the holes than to assemble most kits. I would add to the good advice already here: get a magnifying visor and work under good lighting.

[twhite]

Good show, deSchane! I've built my share of Red Caboose and Intermountain kits, and also a few Branchline boxcars, and what you suggest is right on target. I've tried a few P2K kits, but of the manufacturers, they somehow turn out to be the most frustrating. Can't tell you why, but for some reason, nothing seems to want to match. I've got two in the box now, think they'll probably stay there. But the advice is REALLY good--and actually, if you think about it, the newer plastic kits aren't really any more frustrating or difficult than the old Athearn metal kits from the '50's that had six gazillion little parts floating around. Same basic premise, just a change in materials.
Tom

[Anonymous]

You said it all, it is the same methods I have used in building these kits, I use a sharp #11 or #17 blade for removing parts and use my desprueing tool to clean up the flash.

It is also easier to build three or four of the same kit at the same time, then you can build the same parts right away while the glue is drying on the ones you did before. And, the process is still in your mind and you can replicate or improve on the methods to put the car together.

Rick

[simon1966]

Great post DeSchane!

I am relatively new to the hobby (Back for about 4 years but only serious for the last 2), and found out quite quickly that I wanted something more satisfying to build than the good old blue boxes. My boys are at the skill level to make the BB, so we go to the hobby shop and I will pick out a Branchline Blueprint or Proto2000 kit for me and a pair of BB's for them. I have been using sprue cutters with reasonable success, but have not been happy with the ability to get a clean cut on the side of fine things like brake piping. I always seem to get an obvious place where the srue was removed, even if I get up close. The other challenge I have faced and not been too happy with is the warping that always occurs with wooden kits when I paint the surfaces first before assembly. This is particularly bad with the main sides of structures. I have resorted to pressing the dry parts under a pile of phone directories to get them flat prior to assembly. Thanks for your insight.

[Anonymous]

People have complained about building these more complicated kits, stating the parts are too small and fragile and they take more time to build then they are willing to invest. I want to help you with the small fragile parts, but can't do anything about how much time you have. Personally, I enjoy the time at my work bench, putting these kits together and am attempting to promote building these kits to those whom have an interest. I have built a few wooden cars and want you to know these are also fun and when you get done you have a real master piece! AMB in particular has some wonderful cabooses to build with detailed plans and well thought out construction. These caboose kits are railroad specific and are the most inexpensive method of getting RR specific caboose you will find.

Removing parts from sprues:
1). You need a hobby knife with a SHARP #11, or small SHARP chisel bladed knife. Did you notice I capitalized SHARP? Notice also, I am not espousing the use of sprue cutters. Unless the cutting angle on the jaws is very shallow, when used, these cutters place to much stress on the tiny parts being cut free. Generally the sprue holds the part in several locations. The idea is to back the part up, and place as little stress on the part as possible, when cutting.
2) You need a part cutting anvil. This anvil is a piece of wood which backs up the part being freed from the sprue. Popsicle sticks work great for me. My anvil was made like this; Cross two popsicle sticks, both across their centers. flip the top stick up on it's edge, mark and cut a lap joint out of the upper stick, where it crosses the lower stick. The lap joint allows the sticks to cross with both setting flat on the work bench's surface. Both the edge of the top stick and the flat surface of the lower stick are used as cutting surfaces. Glue the lap joint together and use some small scraps of wood to reinforce the joint. The upper stick's edge is easier to get between the sprue and the part, allowing firm back-up when the knife is used to cut the part.
3). The motion used to free the parts with the knife is a slicing or sawing motion. Get as close to the part as is possible. Cleaning flash off of these tiny parts is a difficult proposition, so get close. I free only the part I am going to use and leave the rest in the sprue for protection.

Gluing parts to the various sub assemblies:
1). Chase each hole used to index and secure each part with a small drill, a few thousandths of an inch larger than the index pins on the part. I have found most part's index pins to be approximately .020 in diameter. So I chase the holes with a .025 diameter drill mounted in a pin vice.
2). Use tweezers to handle the parts. Have several different types of tweezers or hemostats on hand. The manufacturers generally provide extra grab irons as these are the most likely parts to break. Bigger parts which break might be repaired by re-gluing while the part is still in the sprue.
3). Generally, once the holes have been chased, the parts sorta fall into place. Use liquid cement to secure. I use Testers, I have a modified a Testers bottle by removing all but 5-10 hairs of the bottle brush. This allows a very precise placement of a small amount of cement where it is needed. If you can place the cement from within the car body, do so. Otherwise I have found the liquid cement dries almost invisible.

There you have all the working knowledge I have on building these types of cars. If interested, have at her. If you have good ideas on how to build these cars, let's hear them! I find building these cars both a challenge and fun to do!