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Easy Steam Loco and Tender Lenses

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  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 1,190 posts
Posted by mvlandsw on Monday, December 10, 2018 9:42 PM

Drill bits can be used to punch any size disc or hole. I have made washers for under rivits and the rivits themselves using drill sizes in the 70's range and headlight lenses in whatever size is required. If you have one of those steel plates with all the different size holes predrilled that is your die. If not just drill a hole in a piece of thin steel like an Athearn blue box car weight. The shank end of the drill bit must be filed flat to eliminate the chamfer. Use it to punch your material through the hole in the die.

I have been able to punch .005 styrene by hand but using a drill or arbor press is easier and more accurate.

Mark Vinski

PED
  • Member since
    April 2016
  • 571 posts
Posted by PED on Sunday, December 9, 2018 7:57 PM

mel...you are a guy after my own heart....never met a tool I did not like or want.

Paul D

N scale Washita and Santa Fe Railroad
Southern Oklahoma circa late 70's

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 685 posts
Posted by Howard Zane on Sunday, December 9, 2018 7:41 PM

When I could no longer find correct size MV lenses, I'd use a simple sheet of 20 pound paper and press into headlight opening...then fill depression in with a drop of clear epoxy. After drying, of course some of paper would stick and have to be scraped off.....a simple matter. I then painted back of lens silver and installed as fit was perfect. If headlight was to be  lit, I simlpy scraped some of the silver paint off.

Have fun,

HZ

Howard Zane
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, December 9, 2018 8:20 AM

I bought one of those five hole punches several years ago and it has come in handy many times.  It works great for making the old metal outside lamp shades from .004” sheet brass.
 
 
For punching thicker material I found this punch on eBay, it will handle up to .08” styrene easily and .01” brass sheet if you hands can handle the pressure.  The dies are from 3/32" to 9/32"
 
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
  • 231 posts
Posted by EMDSD40 on Sunday, December 9, 2018 6:22 AM

May I suggest MV Lenses. Found a website.....spruebrothers.com had a number of listings. I suspect EBay would also have listings. Installed many of these in Athearn BB diesels and AHM steam going back nearly 40 years. Secured them with a drop of Super Glue applied from a sewing needle.

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Tampa, Florida
  • 1,481 posts
Easy Steam Loco and Tender Lenses
Posted by cedarwoodron on Sunday, December 9, 2018 5:24 AM

So, some have been following my travails with my Mantua 0-4-0 project but I noticed that there would be substantial difficulty in trying to put an LED in the loco headlight (top of boiler on the cast metal model has a heavy weight inside) or the slope back tender (light fixture looks good as is and I don't want to distort history by putting a light on rear short wall of the tender). In both lights a silver reflective paint was used to simulate a light. I wanted to put just a simple round clear plastic lens over each fixture to make the open space of the light look a bit more realistic. My standard paper punch had too large of a diameter and trimming a piece of clear plastic neatly into an even smaller circle was a step to far for me. 

At Lowe's ( but not at Office Depot - go figure!) I found a punch tool with 5 different smaller diameters for only $8.95 that will easily punch plastic sheet and also brass sheet. This tool is made by General and is in the hand tool department at the front of the store. I have already made the lenses and will use Testors White Canopy glue to mount them, as it dries clear. Don't use Super Glue because it spreads too much due to capillary action.

I also tested it on thin brass sheet stock and it worked well as the punch tube cuts down to a solid metal base, avoiding any distortion of the hole. Here I would caution to use it on very thin .010 - .030 stock; with styrene and clear acetate, about the same. But it makes for screw and wire holes better than drilling the thin stock.

Cedarwoodron

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