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How to remove motor from P2K GP7

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 297 posts
How to remove motor from P2K GP7
Posted by markie97 on Thursday, November 29, 2018 6:43 PM

Hello;

Having trouble removing a motor from an older P2K GP7. Seems it has some type of rubber mount that holds it to the frame. I assume it pulls out but I'm concerned about using too much force and causing damage. Please advise.

Thank you,

Mark

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Thursday, November 29, 2018 6:50 PM

markie97

Having trouble removing a motor from an older P2K GP7. Seems it has some type of rubber mount that holds it to the frame. I assume it pulls out but I'm concerned about using too much force and causing damage. Please advise.

Does the bottom of the mounts look like these "mushrooms"?

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH84026

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Thursday, November 29, 2018 7:58 PM

markie97
Having trouble removing a motor from an older P2K GP7. Seems it has some type of rubber mount that holds it to the frame. I assume it pulls out but I'm concerned about using too much force and causing damage. Please advise.

Look at the bottom of the loco, does it have screws? or is it white, sometimes black, "nubens" that [poke though the frame, with no screws.

If you see no screws, just keep wiggling the motor back forth, and work it loose. Disconnect The drive shaft between the motor and the trucks first.

If they are the white nubens, you might want to think about replacing them with the "newer" version, as the white tend to break apart while removing.

Mike.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 2,616 posts
Posted by peahrens on Thursday, November 29, 2018 8:11 PM

I had one loco where the 4 cylinders looked a bit like perhaps metal but it turned out to be a rubbery mount.  I tested it by using a tool from the bottom side and tapping to see if and how the cylinder moved upward to loosen it and learned that I could continue that. 

I likely used a Phillips driver (that could gouge the exposed cylinders) but a more round and flat ended cylindrical tool would be better.  So I pushed, by tapping, at the beginning, rather than pulling. 

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Thursday, November 29, 2018 8:42 PM

peahrens

I likely used a Phillips driver (that could gouge the exposed cylinders) but a more round and flat ended cylindrical tool would be better.  So I pushed, by tapping, at the beginning, rather than pulling. 

 

 

A pin punch might be a better choice than a Phillips driver:

 

They come in sets, like above.

 

Ed

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 2,616 posts
Posted by peahrens on Thursday, November 29, 2018 9:43 PM

7j43k

 

 
peahrens

I likely used a Phillips driver (that could gouge the exposed cylinders) but a more round and flat ended cylindrical tool would be better.  So I pushed, by tapping, at the beginning, rather than pulling. 

 

 

 

 

A pin punch might be a better choice than a Phillips driver:

 

They come in sets, like above.

 

Ed

 

Cool.  Merry Christmas to me.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2054502.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC2.A0.H0.Xpin+punch+set.TRS1&_nkw=pin+punch+set&_sacat=0

 

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

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