Rivarossi cab forward and mallet DCC instalation

[FJX2000]

I have a 1980s Rivarossi Cab Forward as well and I went ahead and installed the Cab Forward SoundTraxx Tsunami since at the time the Tsunami 2 wasn't in existence. I used a large speaker from SoundTraxx in the tender and drilled holes in the bottom of the tender for sound to escape. I used the special plug SoundTraxx sells as well to run wiring from the locomotive to the tender since the decoder and other electronics are located there. To improve performance since the old model had limited, poor pickups I went ahead and added a CurrentKeeper and some additional power pick-ups to the tender. Vastly improved the quality of the engine's running as it used to die all the time on crossovers and stuff. I also replaced the front and rear couplers on the model with Kadee couplers by following Kadee's detailed instruction guide found on their website. I also installed an LED light in the tender light spot as well as an LED up front but I want to redo the front headlight as there is just a piece of plastic used to transmit light up to the headlight opening, which looks pretty poor. I haven't remotered the model as it runs pretty smoothly for me but I would like to add more weight, since my Walthers 2-8-8-2 has better pulling capabilities than this 4-8-8-2 which is much larger, and therefore not prototyplical. My model used to have the factory traction tires but they kept slipping off as they were old so I removed them all together, perhaps simply adding new ones would solve my pulling issues.

[drgwcs]

I would have to look to see the specific one. It was a digitrax non-sound decoder I think a DH127D I put one in that has the port for the keep alive. It wasn't going to be a main engine for me so I didn't put in a sound decoder.

[RR_Mel]

Just curious, what decoder did you install.  I initially I went with Soundtraxx for their Cab Forward sound then tried WOW and for price I’ve settled on MRC.  The specific SP Cab Forward sound is by far the best but $$$ wise the MRC works for me.

 

The amazing thing about the MRC decoder is that when one of my dual motored Cab Forward drivers slip the decoder chuff tracks the slippage of that motor.  The other two don’t do that.  Too bad they don’t have the correct SP compressor sound.

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[drgwcs]

Success- got one installed in the Cab forward. Have to do the mallet yet. I think Rivarossi used a magician to design how to take these things apart- They got a lot of hidden screw compartments. Took longer to get it apart than put the decoder in.

 

[drgwcs]

Thanks for the info- that is what I was thinking. I wanted to make sure before I proceeded Jim

[RR_Mel]

I have converted 21 Rivarossi articulated locomotives and yes clipping or unsoldering the tab will isolate the motor from the frame.  Make sure you check the current draw with locked rotor; it can be close to 1½ amps.  I’ve had a driver rod screw work its way out and lockup the motor.

 

I’ve remotored all but one with can motors and they run much smoother.  You can add extra weight in the shell to improve the traction but not with the stock Rivarossi motor, it will over heat and warp the shell.

 

I’ve used Canon EN22 and Faulhaber 2224RS motors, much more power and better low speed operation over the Rivarossi motor.

 

 https://melvineperry.blogspot.com/2014/08/august-9-2014-remotoring-rivarossi-cab.html

 

https://melvineperry.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_15.html

 

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[drgwcs]

Looking to put DCC decoders in an older HO Rivarossi/AHM Mallet and cab forward. Both have the type of motor that have a tab connecting the motor casing to the motor brush. I don't really want to replace the motors if I do not have too- current draw is OK. I have seen on other forums where some have had good luck in isolating the motor by clipping that tab. That is my plan- has anyone here done that. Jim