Track cleaning

[Anonymous]

Switching to dcc and running trains frequently helps to keep tracks clean. Have NS on my layout and haven't cleaned for three years. Cleaning wheels of cars and locos is a must as that is what spreads the dirt. Make a section of track off the layout that you can power and put engines on it with a piece of cloth that has Goo Gone on it. Run loco one set of wheels at a time to clean. Cars can also be run back and forth over this cloth. You wiil be amazed at the amount of dirt removed. You must clean track first once with a brightboy and then it will stay clean. Guys running on my layout,using thier own locos, comment on how well trains run. I always insist they clean thier wheels before running on my layout. cleanliness is next to godliness and god wanted our trains to run smooth

[willy6]

I found the wine bottle corks work good after you put a drop or to of ATF on it.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by TurboOne

Thanks dimastep for all the info. If my LHS had been nicer about my "bad" brass track, I would have felt better. I have switched about half of my layout to nickel silver, just deciding when to change my brass turnouts. Your way of frustration will save us returning newbies a lot of headaches....

Thanks

Tim

I've actually been thinking to create a simple webpage describing all the problems and solutions I've encountered. Derailments, couplers, locomotives, lubrication, motors, turnouts, trucks, wheels... You name it, I've wasted time and money finding out what's best.
Too bad many people have to go through the same stuff as I did.

On topic - I actually have brass switches from Atlas as I didn't want to throw them out. I have 3 on my main lines and turns out I don't have problems with them. I guess they aren't long enough to cause complete loss of contact. Also the big difference in contact makes engine weight. The heavier the engine - the better contact is.
As for nickel-silver oxidizing - the oxide is still a conductor.

One other tip I can give you. Since you can't be 100% sure your railjoiners are all tight you can drop power wires to more places on the circle this way is one joiner is faulty then no problem, as adjacent sections are still powered.
That's what I did, I have concentric circles on the layout and I connected adjacent rails every 3 feet or so.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dimastep

I converted to nickel-silver rail,

I also learned the hard way that brass track is the quickest way to start hating this hobby.

Nickel silver is not exempt from metal oxidation degradation. We all have it and we all have to clean it.
You just have to find which product, liquid, paste or brite boy works best for you.

[Anonymous]

I have tried many things to clean track. A Brite Boy is a good thing to have especially when you have weathered track and need to take paint off the top of the rail.

The smooth side of a piece of masonite also doues the trick.

I used to use GOO GONE but I would not recommend that anymore. I now use a soft, lint-free cloth and lighter fluid. Yes, lighter fluid! It will not harm plastic but be careful if you are a smoker!

Hope this helps.

Roger W.

[jrbernier]

I use a car with a masonite pad as described, but I cut/glue some drywall sanding screen(get it at your local H/W store) to the pad - works great! I have a Tony's Train Exchange CMX track cleaner that I use once a year, and I use the 'sled' I described about every month or so. Also, start converting your freight car wheels to metal - less problems in the long run.

Jim Bernier

[Anonymous]

If you are going to use Scotchbrite , try the red,or grey. The finer grades work best I've been useing it on a pad that fits under a car on my 0 scale rr for years

[TurboOne]

Thanks dimastep for all the info. If my LHS had been nicer about my "bad" brass track, I would have felt better. I have switched about half of my layout to nickel silver, just deciding when to change my brass turnouts. Your way of frustration will save us returning newbies a lot of headaches....

Thanks

Tim

[Anonymous]

Denatured alcohol found in Lowes or Home Depot works for me. Look in the paint section for it.

[Anonymous]

I wanna add my 2 cents :) I've been in this hobby for almost a year and had to learn a lot of things the hard way. I've been cleaning track using alcohol from drugstore, it works pretty well. But what I found over the last few month is that I no longer need to clean my track at all. I converted to nickel-silver rail, and also, and this is very important, I made sure my rails always have good contact with each other. I learned it the hard way when I had problems with my engines running, I spent hours cleaning track only to find it didn't help.
Frustrated, I almost decided to quit the hobby altogether until I noticed there are sparks in railjoiners - the joiners didn't have good contact which caused rails intermittently loose current. Ever since then made very sure my rail joints are tight. Surprisingly I didn't have to clean my track for 5 month now and didn't notice any problems.

So look closer, it may not be the dirt. This of course assumes you have nickel-silver rails. I also learned the hard way that brass track is the quickest way to start hating this hobby.

[Anonymous]

Exactly what Harryb said, I'd watch very carefully that you are not leaving little bits around not only because of fouling turnouts, but also so your loco's don't come along and pick up the little bits.

[harryb3]

Scotchbrite would definitely not cause the same magnetic problems of steel wool. However, due to the fibrous nature, it will break down with use and most likely foul turnouts or other moving parts on a layout. The larger scale trackwork (O and above) may be more forgiving. I sure wouldn't want to risk stray Scotchbrite pieces in smaller scales. A Brite-boy is a good way to go or perhaps you could use a Masonite pad rigged under a boxcar or hopper to float and shine the rails as the car is pulled around the track (MR ran an article on how to build one a couple years ago). You could option for a track cleaning car from Centerline for example, but the cost may be prohibitive for some. Also, make sure all of your wheels are clean too. Plastic wheels develop crud very quickly and can make the track really dirty. By upgrading to metal wheels your track will stay clean longer as well.

If you still go with Scotchbrite, try to check a home center for a fine grade as it is made in different grades/grits. Be sure to do a good check for any stray fibers that may have snagged in railjoints or turnouts after your rail shineup.

[ben10ben]

I've spent the last couple of days using Scotchbrite to clean up some old, rusty Lionel Super O track. I found that it scrubbed the rust right off of the steel running running rails and the oxidation off of the copper center rail.

One popular project now in the 3-rail O world is to mount a scotchbrite pad on the rotating metal plate of the Lionel postwar track cleaning car. These have been used with great sucess both on steel and nickel silver track.

[JBCA]

Does Scotchbrite (originally by 3M probably marketed under a number of different names) work as a good track cleaning device. Similar to steel wool but without the magnetic problems (it appears to be some kind of nylon or something?)