Well I did make a jig for holding the fence piece's in place, would have needed three hands to hold all 100 scale feet of it in place. I use blue painters tape on the outside pieces and use one hand with a flat blade screwdriver to press on the separate pieces when soldering. The bottom pieces are long on purpose. I cut them off every 20 scale ft. the long ones are then set into holes in the Homasote, because I wanted the fence and gate to be removable, which they are. I am at the point where I can just use enough solder paste to know it will be very strong without any need to do any touch up, like filing unwanted solder at the joints. With the jig, it goes very fast. I'm using the vari-temp pencil iron on the fence:
A photo of the first one I did, all scale 450ft of it around the whole perimeter of the Transload complex....this is the rear gate entrance.
Take Care!
Frank
Using regular solder while holding parts together AND holding the soldering iron is just one of those things you kind of figure out after a while. I've noticed my method tends to be very similar to that of Big Clive on YouTube. When he's not tearing apart cheap (and somethings downright dangerous) appliances and light bulbs, he does build things. Frankly, it's hard to describe, it's better to just watch. Sitting here at the keyboard, with neither solder nor a soldering iron, I can't even quite figure out how I do it, but if I go over to my workbench and pick up the tools it just comes to me.
I can see the value of solder paste for things hwere you join two parts together which are not mechanically fastened, like Frank's fences. The only other relly viable option tould be to securely pin the parts to a work surface, like a cork board, and I've seen it done by using small nail to make a holding fixture to hold the pieces in contact when soldering. Paste looks like a much simpler way to do that.
Actually, you probably DON'T want to watch me solder now. I have somewhere on the order of 50% or more vision loss in my right eye from glaucoma, and even my magnifier doesn't help much. I do have one of those cheap USB 'microscopes' which is basically a glorified web cam with a strong lense, which when displayed full screen on my 27" monitor allows me to easily read markings on surface mount components, but I'm still trying to coordinate my hands over <- there with the soldering iron while my eyes are over -> there looking at the screen. The lag is minimal, it's just I am so conditioned after all these years of looking at when I am working on, not an alternate view of it. So must of the time when I solder I end up taking off my glasses and literally soldering inches from my face. Within the range of my non-corrected visual ability, I have extremely sharp focus. Through my glasses, in comparison it's soft, no matter how I adjust my glasses or where I look through them (I have progressive lense bifocals). So far so good - I guess if I ever burn my nose I'll try something else, but for now it works. I have a fume extractor than sucks the fumes away from my face, so I'm not sucking in the flux fumes.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I might try it too. The last time I saw it mentioned, I googled it and most of the hits were actually for flux paste. Caveat emptor.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
cedarwoodron The reason the solder paste is of interest is that I'm now using a magnifying visor for detail work and I was unfortunately born with only 2 hands, so anything that makes it easier for me is considered. Cedarwoodron
The reason the solder paste is of interest is that I'm now using a magnifying visor for detail work and I was unfortunately born with only 2 hands, so anything that makes it easier for me is considered.
Cedarwoodron
I have glaucoma, I must use a magnifyer and I wear glasses, along with a lot of light. When I first used the paste, I was skeptical, but once I got the hang of it with the correct temp. I was hooked...now I use it on everything I need to solder. And you have one hand free.....to pick your nose or hold parts in place. I am very good at using it now. When you first get it....take the plunger and pull it back a little then shake the syringe up & down, that will make sure the flux is mixed and not settled in the back from the tip. Place the paste on the parts you want to solder, place iron near edge of paste, the flux will start to bubble, seconds later,(if that long) the solder will turn silver, take the iron away. Once cooled down, it takes almost double the temp to unsolder it. It is way stronger than 60/40, I know that for a fact, after using it for 4yrs. Make sure your iron tip is always clean and tinned. I use a soldering station and a variable temp. soldering pencil, with the brass wire cleaning sponge that has tip cleaner in it.
Good thread! Frank, you've convinced me, and I'll be picking some of that stuff up. Soldering is a real weak point with me, and this looks like it could be just the thing to help me clean up my soldering act. Dan
Thank You! Dave.....
Nice work Frank!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Cedarwoodron,
I have been using Solder-it silver bearing solder paste for the past 4yrs. now and not used anything else, simply because it easier, stronger than 60/40, plus you only need one hand to solder. The other hand is free to hold the part or whatever. It's gone up in price a little, but what hasn't. Walmart carry's it and a few other places. I've built many things using it that would have been very hard to solder without a third hand. They also make Pot Metal paste that will solder Atlas pot metal frogs. I have mentioned this a number of times on the forums and either some think it's too expensive or whatever. The syringe doesn't appear to hold much, But, it goes a long way.
http://www.solder-it.com/shop/category.aspx?catid=6
This photo of My working sliding chain link fence, which is all brass, rod, tube, would have been very hard to solder if I had to hold the solder while doing it. I have built many such things with it. A breeze soldering feeders and it does not take much for a bond that is about 5 times stronger than 60/40. There is no need to use flux.....It is mixed in with the paste and I have some that is over a yr. old opened and it is still good....it has a tight fitting cap on the syringe.
The chain link fence material is 3/64 copper screen, which is also soldered with the paste to the brass:
All photos may be clicked on for a larger view........
This is a shot of the first one I made:
Next photo is a shot of Walthers SMD lighting kit with Kadee coupler bronze knuckle springs soldered to the PC board to insure contact....try that with hand held solder:
How about 1/87 scale spare truck tire racks, made with 3/64 brass 1/32 rod, soldered with silver bearing solder paste.......extremely strong.
Solder paste is typically used for surface mount electronics - because it holds the parts in place before you melt the solder. I suppose it would work for track - but you better use it all up rather quickly, as it has a fairly short shelf life once the syringe is opened.
Not sure what the benefit would be - when I solder track sections together, I use some paste flux, put some in the joiner with a microbrush, the connect the track sections. I apply the soldering iron to the inside, and the solder (ordinary thin rosin-core solder, like .015, not the big heavy .042 type) to the outside. The flux will allow the sodler to wick under the joiner to the inside, but most of the solder is on the outside, so no worries about flange clearance. This has resulted in strong, solid joints every time with no additional cleanup necessary.
I saw-again on Youtube- a modeler using solder paste in his soldering rail sections together. I think it was an Oatey product that comes in a small jar. He mentioned that there was also solder paste available in a syringe applicator as well, but in this particular video, he used a small art brush to dab some on the rail joint then used his soldering iron to heat the paste which then flowed normally.
So, has anyone used this solder paste- or regularly uses it? Where did you get it and any comments on its use/characteristics would be appreciated.