clickable
third try https://tinyurl.com/y8rb7lhx
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Penn CentralThe ones that are giving me problems are: - Circa 1970 Mantua Penn Central F7 - 1980 ish Bachman Amtrak EMD - Not sure but older Bachmann Santa Fe F7
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That frog is metal and can be powered by soldering or using a screw in that little brass ring or loop that is sticking out from the side of the ties on the left. I have been powering My frogs with Atlas snap relays and under table Atlas switch machines since 1980 all 45 of them and never had to replace any of them due to them as You heard ''stink". You can use a Tortoise to switch them and power the frog if You prefer......You can't use a frog juicer, that's for DCC. Tortoise's were not even out yet when I built My layout otherwise I may have used them. But I have not had any issues with the Atlas Products. I use normally open push buttons on control panel with route indicator Led's to power the machines/relays with a 6amp 18vac power supply, 12vdc for the Led's.
Take Care!
Frank
Sorry everyone, been late getting back here. Thanks for the questions and feedback....
snjroy Hi there. For DC, having flywheels connected to the motor will help. The best method would be to add additional power pickups on your wheels. You might want to give use more info on your engines... Simon
Hi there. For DC, having flywheels connected to the motor will help. The best method would be to add additional power pickups on your wheels. You might want to give use more info on your engines... Simon
zstripe Everyone is giving advice for adding pickups and other info, but I'm more curious as to when or how He has an Atlas #8 turnout with a plastic frog. Along with having 24'' radius track, which I think is true-track. If He is using true-track turnouts they have a plastic frog just like a Snap Switch and they surely are not #8's. All numbered Customline turnouts have the black metal insulated frog that can be powered. I believe more info is necessary from the OP before any advice could be given to help Him out. Just My Take Care! Frank
Everyone is giving advice for adding pickups and other info, but I'm more curious as to when or how He has an Atlas #8 turnout with a plastic frog. Along with having 24'' radius track, which I think is true-track. If He is using true-track turnouts they have a plastic frog just like a Snap Switch and they surely are not #8's. All numbered Customline turnouts have the black metal insulated frog that can be powered.
I believe more info is necessary from the OP before any advice could be given to help Him out.
Just My
So here's the switch I'm using.
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/atlas-ho-286-code-100-track-8-right-hand-mark-iv-turnout/
Its only one small part where the locos lose power. When the front wheels run over that frog. Not sure if its b/c its plastic or not.
rrinker Atlas #8 is defnintely not a plastic frog. There is a little loop outside of the rails on one side where one can connect power, routed by contacts on the switch machine, such as a Tortoise, of if using Atlas point motors, you cna add a Snap Relay in parallel to change the frog polarity. Themn the whole thing will be powered and even those split pickup locos should be able to run nicely over the frog without stalling. --Randy
Atlas #8 is defnintely not a plastic frog. There is a little loop outside of the rails on one side where one can connect power, routed by contacts on the switch machine, such as a Tortoise, of if using Atlas point motors, you cna add a Snap Relay in parallel to change the frog polarity. Themn the whole thing will be powered and even those split pickup locos should be able to run nicely over the frog without stalling.
--Randy
That would be awesome if I could add power. Right now have not purchased any switch machines. Someone told me the Atlas switch machines/boxes stink.
Ken Stapleton's 751D switches
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I also run DC, and have had good success handling that issue by adding all-wheel pick-up to older locos (including newer brass ones, too).
Here's a brass tender with wipers (modified Kadee #5 coupler-centering springs) added to the insulated wheels...
Instead of (or in addition to) using the drawbar for current transmission, I added mini-connectors between loco and tender...
The locomotive also gets similar wipers, bearing on the tires of the insulated drivers, with a direct wire connection to the motor...
With this set-up, the loco will run as long as there's at least one pair of wheels contacting live rails.
Wayne
7j43k DCC with "keep-alive" should do the trick. You might also see my comment in the topic: "Powering a plastic frog...." Ed
DCC with "keep-alive" should do the trick.
You might also see my comment in the topic: "Powering a plastic frog...."
Ed
Ah, I should've mentioned I'm not using DCC in this layout. But I will search for that term. thanks!
Sorry still a newbie here and think I'm using the right term "insulated frog". I have some 24" radius, Atlas #8 turnouts on my new layout. I also have some really old locos (35-40 years) that I've refurbished and got running.
My problem is these older locos stall when running over these turnouts, assuming its b/c the frog is plastic/insulated and the loco picks up all power from one set of wheels. When this one set of wheels runs over it stalls.
Is there a fix or mod that will allow me to run these older locos smoothly?