Charles, beside the all above what was recommended, this also can help (and not just in case of model railroads when vibrations and rattle are concerned):
https://www.ebay.de/itm/251336536962?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
This mat will considerably decrease vibrations. Just be careful where you glue it, because once there, it is no easy to remove it.
Regards,
Hrvoje
Trainman440.....Is there a way you can remove that vibration, besides gluing the shell down?....
If the other suggestions don't work, it's easy enough to affix the tender body to its floor with screws. The example shown below is for a resin freight car kit (with warped sides, hence the crossmembers) but the method for your tender would be similar....
...simply use solvent-type cement to affix square .125" strip styrene to the inside sidewalls of the tender at an appropriate depth. They can be continuous full-length strips or shorter ones, as in the photo (short on the freight car to accommodate the door openings). Once the strips are firmly in place, re-insert the floor, then use a pin vise to drill suitably-sized holes (for tapping) through both the floor and the strips. Remove the floor and re-drill the holes in the floor for clearance, and tap the holes in the strips - 1-72 size flat-headed screws are a good size for this type of job.
You can countersink for the screwheads by using a larger drill bit, sized similar to the diameter of the screwhead, and used either in a pin vise or simply held in your fingers.
Wayne
I have similar problems with vibration on BLI tender shells when sound decoders are activated.
I recently saw a YouTube video in which the model railroader touted the use of Microscale MI-9 Micro Kristal Klear and demonstrated how it eliminates vibration. It is not a permanent glue, easily removable.
Here is a link to that video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBxEmEYHXpc
Rich
Alton Junction
I had a similar problem with my 2-8-2. I used a little clear Scotch tape at the junction of the body and chassis. I put a couple of small pieces on the lip of the chassis. Put the shell back on and trimmed off any excess with a #11 bladed knife.
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
Good idea!
I'll invest in some.
Charles
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Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440
Charles,
You might try using Kapton tape rather than electrical tape. It's thinner (0.001-0.002" thickness), tough, handy for securing decoders and wires, and doesn't leave a gooey residue as it ages.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I used the original speakers, which at 8ohm and compatible with TCS WOWsound.
They are secure on the chassis...problem is the shell isnt secure on the chassis, because its snap fit, no screws. Most BLI Paragon engine tenders are like that.
I turned down the volume and it helps a bit.
I'll try using some electrical tape. Never thought of that! Thanks!
Often a surprisingly effective and quick fix is simply to affix a length of electrical tape to the sides of the tender, but near the bottom lip. Not AT the bottom lip because that's where you want it to fit to the frame.
Is there an enclosure around the speaker, one that matches the shape of the outer rim of the speaker cone?
Is your sound set at full volume? If so, try reducing the master volume to 75% or 50% - i.e. a value of 190 or 128.
Also, are you using the same speaker that came with the Paragon decoder, or did you replace it when you changed it out for the TCS WowSteam? Make sure that the speaker ohm rating is compatible with the TCS decoder.
Lastly, make sure that the screws of the tender shell are snug and not loose.
Hi, i have a paragon Broadway Limited 2-8-2 that I recently changed the horrible QSI decoder out for a TCS Wowsound.
When I play the whistle, the shell vibrates and creates a noise of the shell hitting the chassis.
Is there a way you can remove that vibration, besides gluing the shell down?