The book is on order!!!
No need for me to pile on here about the impracticality of a solid-sheet 6x12. A 6x12 with access in the center might be manageable, but not with that particular track plan or a modified version of it because there is no space for access holes.
Which is the main focus of this posting: I think that track plan is very "busy" looking and has too much track, yet ironically offers not enough switching if that is what you like best.
Since you have the space for a 6x12 with aisles all around it, then I'd put the benchwork where those aisles would be and standing space where the 6x12 would be. Perhaps a big U shape, with or without turnback curves at one or both ends (I am a big fan of point to point layouts).
Dave Nelson
6x12' table will be a nightmare to work on. What area do you have available? Chances are it can be utilitized in a much better way.
Wholeheartedly agree on the above book recommendation. Armstrong gives a great point on how to develop a layout you actually going to enjoy.
Regards
Anton.
dstarr John Armstong's book "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" is an invaluable handbook on all phases of layout building.
John Armstong's book "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" is an invaluable handbook on all phases of layout building.
This x 1000. Get that book and read it.
Getting broader curves is a good thing. A 6 by 12 table makes it hard to reach things, like derailments, in the center of the table. Think about an around the walls design. Put some gentle bends in your mainline tracks rather than running them straight along the edges of the table. Think about a deep river valley spanned by a mighty bridge. Think about dividing a table top layout into two separate scenes with a view block/backdrop running down the center of the table.
I totally agree. Broader is better. A 6x12 table will be difficult to build and maintain due to access restrictions and will be a nightmare.
My suggestion is if this is your first rodeo, go with a 4x8 layout to learn the basics, or maybe something slightly large like a 5x9 for broader curves.
Once you have built a 4x8 or 5x9 and learned some things, graduate to an around the walls layout. If you do around the walls, it may open up other possibilities and broader curves.
Here is my 10x12 around the walls and it was my 3rd layout - I had to move before it was finished. Minimum radius was 32 inches. Curves in the yard were in the 34-40 range.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
The layout design looks cool, but I would echo what others wrote and have a max of 24-30" reach max. Anything beyond that is too challenging to reach. This issues matters a bit less for scenery, which is more often static, than track.
John Armstong's book "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" is an invaluable handbook on all phases of layout building. Getting broader curves is a good thing. A 6 by 12 table makes it hard to reach things, like derailments, in the center of the table. Think about an around the walls design. Put some gentle bends in your mainline tracks rather than running them straight along the edges of the table. Think about a deep river valley spanned by a mighty bridge. Think about dividing a table top layout into two separate scenes with a view block/backdrop running down the center of the table.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I would tend to put the turntabl into the area of the yard if possible.
The thing about Atlas plans is the company sells track. The more turnouts the better.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Hi all. I am getting ready to start my first “real” build. I had decided on the HO scale Atlas - Granite Gorge and Northern. I am going to expand the table size to 6’ x 12’ to get better radius turns and more gradual grades. Plus it will give me a little leniency for track lay out and a little more room for industries. I really like the layout and I can run 2 mainlines. I plan on using code 83 track.
I have some experience that should relate as follows: I have built wood routed 1/32 scale wood routed slotcar tracks with bench work. Mostly flat top plywood. I started playing with N scale trains on a small layout. The N scale is just to small for my eyes! LOL I can solder rails etc. I have some modeling experience and a small amount of scenery experience. We build, fix, maintain, and race full size cars.
With all that said, I guess what I am looking for is any advice, tips, ideas, etc. I would greatly appreciate any and all input!