Thank you for the suggestion, good advice. I just did this, this morning. I used the 101 for electrical contact, (it' all I had), then a standard lubricating oil and grease where the corrosion was and to lubricate the gear boxes,
Thanks again.
Robert SylvesterNewberry-Columbia Line
That's good advice, Robert.
I would make one minor suggestion. I believe there are better products than the Labelle 101 to use as a corrosion inhibitor/contact improver.
CRC 2-26 is excellent for contact areas inside locomotives or bolster plates, axle ends, plugs and sockets, battery contacts, etc. and will perform better than lubricating oil alone.
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/2-26-174-multi-purpose-precision-lubricant-16-fl-oz-02007.html
The aerosol can be found at home-centers but I special ordered a liquid pump bottle of CRC that I can easily decant into needle-tipped bottles like Labelle uses.
A friend of mine works in a high-end electronics manufacturer and he suggested something even better, but a bit pricey at about $30 for a 2 ounce bottle. That's Deoxit Type D.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.94/.f?sc=2&category=188
Their web site is really cluttered, there's a video presentation here but you have to pause it in order to read all the information.
Cheers, Ed
I have several Bachman Plus diesel units and they have always performed well. After moving around we finally settled in South Carolina. I have since built my ninth layout and this one is almost complete, still needs more details.
In testing my engines I placed the B unit on the track, it is powered, turned up the power and nothing, not even a whimper. I then slid the unit back and forth to see if it would make contact, it didn't. I removed the engine from the tracks and began to study it like a fine toothed comb. Nothing seem to be wrong until I turned the unit over and studied the under side. Sure enough I could see corrosion build up where the brass wiper makes contact with the chassis which powers the engine. The wiring looked good so I figured the corrosion was the culprit. What to do?
I took a very fine piece of sandpaper and slipped it between the wiper and the chassis and gently sanded the corrosive area. I then sanded the top of the brass wiper, making sure it still made good contact.
Taking my Labelle 101 oil I placed a drop on each wheel tread then using another oil and grease I lubricated the gearing in the trucks.
Placing the engine back on the track I held my breath and turned on the power and it slowly began to move, quietly. I ramped up the speed and the engine moved accordingly. I even ran it at a very slow speed, almost a crawl, then it sped up as I adjusted the power. The engine is better than ever.
So, if you have any problems with your Bachman's check for corrosion, it worked for me and now the engine runs beautifully.
Robert Sylvester
Newberry-Columbia Line