Hi Everyone,
Long story short, I am trying to repair an older 4-6-2 steam locomotive and need some advice. I accidentally severed the wires that connect from the front light which connect near the worm/gearing (this is an older Tyco loco, I believe, which is running okay otherwise). I've never used solder before and asked my neighbour, who has a kit and experience doing so, to help me out. He actually did well in repairing the connections but I think he got a bit of solder on the plastic worm itself (he's older and his hands are a little shaky), so now it doesn't turn and naturally, the gear won't move.
What can I do to get the solder off of the plastic worm? Is there a simple cheap trick, like using a hair dryer, to melt it off? I'm a noobie at this stuff and generally make mistakes heh while trying to solve problems like this, so any detailed advice would be great. I imagine trying to replace this would be a nightmare, so I am really hoping to get the solder off as the worm seems fine otherwise.
Thank you for any advice you can give: I really appreciate it!
Mr. Gisa
Be aware that the melting point of plastic is lower than that of solder. Attempts to get the solder off with heat will melt the worm before you melt the solder. I would pull the motor with the worm out of the locomotive. With the worm in plain view look for the solder and any rough spots in the plastic caused by hot solder. Use a triangular needle file and perhaps a sharp hobby knife to smooth out any hickies in the plastic and remove any solder. While you have the motor out of the locomotive, put some juice (12 volt DC) to it and make sure it turns, smoothly, and in both directions. You just want to eliminate any possiblity that the motor itself has a problem.
While you have the motor out of the chassis, roll the chassis back and forth on a good smooth surface (piece of glass is good) to check for binds in the mechanism.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
When I've gotten the occasional bit of solder on plastic, I've been able to easily pry it off. It certainly isn't really soldered on, so there shouldn't be much of a bond.
Of course, if there's so much that it wraps around, that might be a problem.
Anyway, it "should" be removable using a variety of instruments like a scribe ("pointy thing"), X-acto blade (careful, there), and tweezers.
Try VERY HARD not to scrape up the worm with the tools.
While the heat from the molten solder might have damaged the worm, in my experience that is unlikely. Possible, but unlikely.
Ed
As was said, he should be able to peel the solder off.
If there is some damge to the worm, a worm and matching worm gear from NWSL is the answer.
I have regeard Tyco locos some years ago that way. NWSL has a lot of gear info.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Thanks everyone for your advice. The motor runs fine (I accidentally broke the u-coupling and just got it replaced from NWSL) and both rods turn fine, it's just the worm that barely turns.
Glad I didn't jump into using a hair dryer to try to melt off the solder. I'll try to carefully get it out of the worm for now.
This loco is quite old, had been dropped and repaired and has gone through a lot but it has some sentimental value to me and I think I can get it working again, if I can just get the solder out of the ridges of the worm.
I will try using a screwdriver/blade (carefully) but out of curiousity, there are no chemicals I could use that would dissolve it?
Thanks again for your advice everyone.
Put it in the Freezer overnight. The solder will contract as it gets cold and "release" it's grip. Pull it out of the freezer and let it set for a minute or two ( holding cold part's isn't that much fun ) The plastic will start to warm up before the solder and then you should be able to pick the solder off. Let the rest air dry for a day to evaporate any residual moisture, and your back in buisness.
Rust...... It's a good thing !
Little Timmy The plastic will start to warm up before the solder...
The plastic will start to warm up before the solder...
No. It's the opposite.
Most gear worms are delrin plastic which is "slippery" in that glue and paint do not readily adhere to the surface. I would use metal dental picks to try to pry the solder off. Simply stay away from any inclination to use heat in any way.
Cedarwoodron
7j43kNo. It's the opposite.
Oopps ! I was typing too fast.
Yes, the "Solder" will warm up first.
Thank you all for your advice. I tried the freezer trick, which I think helped but after reinstalling the worm, I was unsuccessful in getting the worm to turn. It was turning a little bit before I tried to get it going, but not now. I think some of the plastic on the worm itself melted so it needs to be replaced.
I'm going to contact a few nearby hobby shops to see how much it'd cost to replace the worm (if that is even possible) or to get a new worm/gear installed. I've done enough damage to this locomotive that I just want to repair it for good. @@
Thanks again for your advice everyone: hope this will help anyone else in this scenario.