Burce I have been meaning to post a up date about ATF on the rails. Guess it has been 18 months now with no problems! No strange gunk bulid up on the rolling stock wheels, no derailment problems and no black bulid up around the rails!
For myself it is a big
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I have said this before, I use ATF for my tracks, even clean wheels on my locos with it too. I just drape a piece of paper towel over some track, put some wheels on the paper towel with ATF and the other wheels on the live track and turn it on-bingo clean wheels, then I just reverse the engine and do the rest for the other wheels.
I also put some ATF on the tracks around the layout as well. Now using LaBelle 101 is a different story. This is when I imrove conductivity with the rails and the engine. Once this is done, I don't have to clean wheels or touch the tracks for about a year or more.
I just spread a little 101 oil on the tracks for about 6-8 inches in 4 places, and the engines run great. I even have an Atlas GP 30, ICG; purchased in Memphis in 1974, it still runs like a Swiss watch and is very quiet and smooth.
One in a while I will take a clean piece of white cotton cloth and clean the track once in a while just to remove some of the dark residue. The trains are still moving, on time.
Robert
There's a product that is (or used to be?) out there called "RailZip" which was supposed to be a rail cleaner/conductivity improver. As far as we could tell at our club when we were trying to use it it was nothing more than re-bottled transmission fluid.
We tried the RailZip/ATF, we tried the Wahl oil. None of the "wet" methods really worked to our satisfaction - it improved things right after you used them, but over time absorbed dust and other gunk from the environment and left crud over the rails requiring heavy cleaning again.
Since then we've gone to dry rails and graphite for conductivity improvement. Things have been much better since then. Since the graphite is dry, it doesn't attract environmental dirt the same way wet methods oil or ATF does. Track does still need to be rubbed clean occasionally for oxidation and buildup, but things have been better with the graphite method over the ATF or oil methods.
Chris van der Heide
My Algoma Central Railway Modeling Blog
I use ATF on my N scale Kato Unitrack layout, and is amazing how well it works, just a tiny amount last for months, I can even go weeks without running the layout and everything still runs great when I start things up again, plus even seldom used spurs and sidings seem to stay clean. It has made N scale way more enjoyable. I can run trains much more slower, without hesitations and stalling. Highly recommended.
James Sanchez
selector I really do put that (bleeping sound) on everything.
I really do put that (bleeping sound) on everything.
You can't beat it on fries!
Ed
A lot would depend on the environment of your train room. If it's a finished room; walls, ceilings, doorways, etc. dust wouldn't be much of an issue. But, anything oil based on your track WILL attract dirt. I bought a CMX Cleaning Machine. I fill it with acetone and push it around the track with a couple of locomotives. It's pretty heavy.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I sparingly use plastic compatible ATF to lube the gears of my engines. I find it quiets things down considerably, is very cost effective and does not kludge up where a particular engine sits for long periods of time unused. Works for me!
Cedarwoodron
I generally don't have need to clean track, but a good friend, who has a large layout, does use ATF and swears by it as effective at minimising or eliminating the need to clean track. He also runs some very long trains, and reports no apparent loss of tractive effort.
Wayne
You know that commercial with the old lady talking about Frank's Sauce? She puts that (bleeping sound) on everything?
In the linked discussion, in a post above, I reported that I liberally coated my rails on steep grades with ATF and that I noticed no degradation in performance. It should be noted that I never did have a problem on that layout, but the grades WERE steep. Still, my trains ran unerringly. I had no electrical issues whatsoever. After applying the ATF, my trains ran as before.
I have used AFT since 2006 to lubricate my steamers' outer parts and wheels bearings. I have yet to encounter a down side, not even marred paint. The Dextron III Mercon is formulated to be safe for both paints and plastics. That variety of ATF is used for plastic-cased sending units inside of automatic transmissions.
Earlier this summer, I removed the brass works from an antique Ansonia pendulum clock. It has slowed and was not keeping time. I ran paint thinner through the casement to remove any residue left over from the fogged kerosene treatment the last person who repaired it had used. I let the thing sit for three months, and then I used my train ATF applicator needle and touched each pivoting and rotating pin and bushing. I applied a liberal amount over the sides of the two large (and by now very dry) coiled leaf springs. I restored the works to the cabinet and wound 'er up. She's keeping great time, and sounds great, to this day, now into week #6.
Some people swear by it others swear at it.
I'd say do it if you want but there's absolutely no gurantees.
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
If you use the "Search the Community" search engine you should find some past threads discussing using ATF. Having said that, I'm not keen on the idea for two primary reasons:
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/263149/2975211.aspx#2975211
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I was going thru one of my older Model Railroader mags today and saw an article on using automatic transmission fluid on the tracks to keep them clean and improve the conductivity. I have never seen a follow up article or anything on a forum regarding this. Has anyone on here ever tried this and if so does it work and would they recommend doing it. If this has been discussed on the forum before can someone provide a link to it? Thanks
Bruce