Orly? I don't know what the joke was about, political or not. I want to understand so I can laugh too. Looks like it will remain a mystery.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I deleted my posst so there is no need to keep posting that you are confused.
There is no secret society.
Some people don't have a sense of humor and see everything as political. I keep forgetting that. I also believe we can laugh at ourselves. That is no longer acceptable either.
All the best.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
doctorwayneWell, just to put your minds at ease, and remove any confusion, my remark about the "sultry and seductive MS. Warren" may have been tongue-in-cheek, or perhaps my taste in women is simply more eclectic than the usual. As for "political", I can't be bothered with U.S. political issues, at least within this Forum, as I believe that it's one of those off-limit topics. It was simply an off-the-cuff remark, with no intent of malice towards anyone.
And to put your mind at ease, I believe that the reference to Mz. W. started with Big Daddy, not you.
riogrande5761I don't know about Wayne of many photo's...
maxman riogrande5761 I'm confused too. But, onward and upward.
riogrande5761
I'm confused too. But, onward and upward.
Well, just to put your minds at ease, and remove any confusion, my remark about the "sultry and seductive MS. Warren" may have been tongue-in-cheek, or perhaps my taste in women is simply more eclectic than the usual.As for "political", I can't be bothered with U.S. political issues, at least within this Forum, as I believe that it's one of those off-limit topics.It was simply an off-the-cuff remark, with no intent of malice towards anyone.
Wayne
maxman riogrande5761 I'm confused too. But, onward and upward. Well, my guess is that it is something political.
riogrande5761 I'm confused too. But, onward and upward.
Why am I not surprised.
The first P2K models I saw, and for around $8 at the time, were the double door auto box cars with dreadnaught ends. Amazingly cheap when first on the market for very well detail cars and you could read the micro print with a magnifier nice and clear. I think my wife game me two IIRC for Christmas 1997, Santa Fe and Southern. I picked up the UP box car with end doors a year later at AA Hobbies.
The box car kits IMO go together easier than the contemporary IMRC kits, which were very similar in detail. Back then, like many, I just got anything that was "shiny", but since I have settled on a late 1970's thru early 1980's modeling period, those P2k 50' box cars would have been rare by then. I think they had build dates in the 1940's.
I seem to remember an ad for these when Life-Like first brought them to market. These were the first cars in the Proto-2000 series.
.
The ad showed a drawing with the end doors open. That caused some dismay when the actual model made it to the store shelves, and the doors were cast into the body shell.
Oh well, I glue all my doors shut anyway.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
j. c.proto number is 21024. besides the LV i have CB&Q , UP , ERIE and GTW with end doors
Thank you.
Then why do people post nonsense in topics that most don't get and apparently isn't allowed to be posted in public but only understood by a secret society? SMH
I was going to send you a pm, but there is no option to do that where it usually appears for others. I guess you will have to stay confused.
I'm still confused.
Confused or not, we look forward to your pictures Wayne.
Keep them coming.
doctorwayneI get, and don't mind, the "Wayne of many photos" moniker, but the reference to the sultry and seductive Elizabeth Warren escapes me completely.
Now I'm confused...
Gary
IIRC, the Proto 2000 end door Automobile Box cars were originally sold circa 1997, give or take. I bought mine at AA Hobbies in Warwick RI when I was working at a Superfund site for several months. I bought a number of models from that rather nice shop and still have some of them including this box car.
As far as I can tell, there is no kit number...the end of the box reads LV 8534 which is the car's number, and there's no number on the instructions, other than a stamp-applied 09796.I got the kit from a friend, who bought it, partially (mis)-built at a train show.
The end doors look as if they would work, but that's only because the latching bar is a separately-applied piece. I replaced all of the grabirons, roofwalk grabs, and stirrup steps with metal parts, and altered the BLT date to 6-37, so that the car would better-fit into my layout's era. I also replaced the stock roofwalk with a board-by-board one, using Evergreen HO scale 2"x6" strip styrene
The instructions also outline how to alter the sidesills, from the straight type, to the notched type for roads which had that feature. The Lehigh Valley cars had notched sidesills, so I altered the car accordingly.
I get, and don't mind, the "Wayne of many photos" moniker, but the reference to the sultry and seductive Elizabeth Warren escapes me completely.
I'd guess that there are some here who don't care for photos, but if somebody asks a question which can be answered with a photo, it makes sense to me to show 'em the picture. While a picture is supposedly worth a thousand words, I don't mind givin' the written-out version, too.
maxman doctorwayne Is this a P2K car? I didn't know that P2K made an end door boxcar kit. It appears from the photo that the end doors can be modeled open or closed. Is that correct? Do you happen to remember what the kit number was? Thanks Dick
doctorwayne
Is this a P2K car? I didn't know that P2K made an end door boxcar kit.
It appears from the photo that the end doors can be modeled open or closed. Is that correct?
Do you happen to remember what the kit number was?
Thanks
Dick
Hello —
I have some of these L-L 50 footers. The end doors would require some careful surgery to make them posed open or operable:
LifeLike by Edmund, on Flickr
LifeLike_0001 by Edmund, on Flickr
The A end is molded as part of the body. It wouldn't be impossible but would take some time to carve out the door moldings. I don't see an actual stock number on my box, it has a small sticker with the reporting marks, SOU 40231 on the end of the box.
Good Luck, Ed
deleted
BigDaddy riogrande5761 I don't know about Wayne of many photo's That's so Elizabeth Warren.
riogrande5761 I don't know about Wayne of many photo's
That's so Elizabeth Warren.
Huh?
riogrande5761I don't know about Wayne of many photo's
edit an attempt at humor takes an unwanted turn toward politics.
maxman Is this a P2K car? I didn't know that P2K made an end door boxcar kit. It appears from the photo that the end doors can be modeled open or closed. Is that correct? Do you happen to remember what the kit number was? Thanks Dick
I don't know about Wayne of many photo's but the UP Proto 2000 box car I showed above has end doors; you just can't see them in the original photo:
The UP Auto box car with end doors is listed on my box as:
50' Automobile Box Car with end doors, UP #161357
There is no stock number on the box
It was some years ago when I built it and I don't recall if the end doors could be modeled separately. The instructions are in the box - I'll have to get them out and check when I get a chance.
doctorwayne This car was a gift from a friend. He bought it at a train show, mainly because he liked the end doors. However, his eyesight is not the best, and he later realised that the car was lettered for the '50s, while his layout is set in the late '20s. The car is typical of cars being built from the mid-'30s on, so he offered it to me. Upon receiving it, I discovered that the previous owner had attempted to assemble it, but used copious amounts of ca, and apparently his eyesight was as bad as that of my friend. It was a fair amount of work to remove the excess glue, but most scraped off using a chisel-type blade in my X-Acto. The doors were damaged somewhat during the clean-up, and the ladders were beyond rescue. I added new steps and grabs, repaired the visible damage, and added some scratchbuilt tack boards and other small details. For the new metal grabs, I simulated the bolts holding them in place by inserting short lengths of brass wire just above their ends - no hex-heads, but convincing enough once painted... The underbody was in rough shape, with most of the piping and brake rigging broken or missing. I used the original components, but substituted wire where necessary. I also added the storage tubes (Evergreen styrene rod) for the tie-down chains used with the Evans Auto-Loaders. After changing the BLT date to better reflect my layout's era, it turned into a decent piece of rolling stock...
This car was a gift from a friend. He bought it at a train show, mainly because he liked the end doors. However, his eyesight is not the best, and he later realised that the car was lettered for the '50s, while his layout is set in the late '20s. The car is typical of cars being built from the mid-'30s on, so he offered it to me. Upon receiving it, I discovered that the previous owner had attempted to assemble it, but used copious amounts of ca, and apparently his eyesight was as bad as that of my friend. It was a fair amount of work to remove the excess glue, but most scraped off using a chisel-type blade in my X-Acto. The doors were damaged somewhat during the clean-up, and the ladders were beyond rescue. I added new steps and grabs, repaired the visible damage, and added some scratchbuilt tack boards and other small details. For the new metal grabs, I simulated the bolts holding them in place by inserting short lengths of brass wire just above their ends - no hex-heads, but convincing enough once painted...
The underbody was in rough shape, with most of the piping and brake rigging broken or missing. I used the original components, but substituted wire where necessary. I also added the storage tubes (Evergreen styrene rod) for the tie-down chains used with the Evans Auto-Loaders. After changing the BLT date to better reflect my layout's era, it turned into a decent piece of rolling stock...
I got a brand new P2K stock car kit off of ebay for $12 and free shipping, which I think is a steal. Best part is, it came with plenty of extra grab irons!
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
While I have broken a few stirrups during assembly (thankful there are extras on the sprue), I've had very few Proto 2000 parts - even stirrups - break once assembled. Maybe it's the way I pack them in the storage boxes.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
cowman The suggestion was given to me to use a reamer in the holes to make it easier to put the small parts in place and reduce breakage. I haven't done much since I got them, but it certainly helped. Good luck, Richard
The suggestion was given to me to use a reamer in the holes to make it easier to put the small parts in place and reduce breakage. I haven't done much since I got them, but it certainly helped.
Good luck,
Richard
I've found with Proto 2000 kits, little if any reaming is necessary for the parts to fit in the holes for gluing. Intermountain kits, which are very similar, usually need a little more. The Proto kits have been engineered quite well; the biggest rub are the very fragile stirrups.