Hi, the above instruction is from a HO Life-Like P1K RS-11. I am aware of proprietary oils for the wheel bearings, e.g. Peco Electrolube, but I am not aware of any "light grease" products. Presumably there are some, and presumably there are also some "dos and don'ts", e.g. maybe you need different products for plastic gears, nylon gears and metal gears? And quantity? I remember as a boy on motorised ship kits you packed the gearbox with vaseline, but that was partly to prevent water ingress via the prop shafts. I assume that on a model locomotive on a long run some types of "grease" might get hot and liquify and drip onto the track, whilst others might stay viscous and remain in place. Some substances might chemically attack the plastic or paint, and some might solidify in time and seize everything up (which might be the problem i am dealing with - see context below - it never seems to happen to unused Atlas locos!!) I would be grateful for any advice. Context - I have been unpacking and testing my Life-Like locos that have sat in their boxes for years and several of them buzz but do not move when power is applied, and I want to get the right stuff before I start dismantling them.
Grateful for any advice,
Thanks,
Bill.
Probably the safest light grease is Labelle #106.
https://labelle-lubricants.com/shop/labelle-106-grease-with-ptfe/
Hundreds of modellers have used it and I have never seen a negative comment about it. It is plastic compatible and does not dry up like the orginal grease in your P1K RS-11.
Note that it is unwise to simply try to add grease to the trucks without cleaning the old gunk out. The proper approach is to take the trucks apart, thoroughly clean out all of the old grease using isopropyl alcohol, and then re-lubricate as you reassemble the trucks. You don't want to 'fill' the gear boxes. That will only result in excess grease being thrown onto the track and inside the shell.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi Bill,
Another nod for Labelle #106. I use it on all my locomotives and it works great. I also agree with Dave. Clean out any old grease first - particularly the stuff that's brown and dried - before relubing. I use 99% Isopropyl alcohol for that.
And be sure to lube the motor bearings, as well. Labelle #108 works well for that. I picked up a NOS Walthers S1 switcher that had never been run. After cleaning the gears and relubing with #106, it still was noisy and a bit jittery. Once I lightly oiled the motor bearings at both ends of the shaft, it smoothed right out. And it was so dry that I had to do it twice.
Again, grease and oil lightly. Otherwise, it will drip down onto your track or pickups and you'll have other issues to deal with.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Labelle has a handy kit of 3 lubricants that should cover most any need in model railroading. It includes their 106 grease and their light oil, both plastic compatible, and also their powdered graphite - good for couplers, switch machine mechanisms, and old style metal trucks that just have square axles instead of needlepoints - putting oil on such things tends to have the oil drop down even if you use it sparingly.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Totally agreed that labelle lubricants work very well for our model railroad motive power. Used properly (sparingly) a tube of 106 will last a long time, even if you have a large fleet.
Take a look at this short Labelle products video. I was skeptical, at first, but must admit that it is WELL presented:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQkU18WmuWw
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
I agree with the above. And Labelle will not harm your paint jobs, based on my experience. I had one loco where the oil leaked (I don't know how) on a painted section of the body and it has stayed there for years without harming anything. Of course, I removed what I could, but oil is oil...
If you look carefully at diesel drives there is a worm driving a worm gear. I put a film of Labelle on the worm. It does the rest. Model trains need only a film of lub.
Edit.
I put this in with my iPhone. Now on my PC, I use to put the loco on a test stand. Put a little more on the worm until it seemed to coat all the gears. Took a little time.
With my Roundouse steam locos that had spur gears and worm gears I had to do those separate. Spur gears do not mesh with worm gears.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
White "Lithium" grease, available at your local big box DIY store, is plastics and paints safe. I can't make a claim as to how long it will retain its consistency (as in, giving up volatiles).
I have been using the dregs of a liter of Dexron III Mercon auto-transmission fluid for over ten years to lube my steamers' rods and truck axles. Nary a problem in that time. In fact, due to this experience, I used it to lube an antique brass clockwork recently. The clock was running 'sticky' and slow. I removed the frame and works and ran paint thinner through it. Cleaned it up nice 'n dry, too. I let it air dry for two months. Then, I touched my applicator sewing pin with ATF to each of the bushings and pins, and ran a bunch of it into the two coil springs. Wound it up, and it's now been three weeks. Keeps time like it's supposed to.
Thanks, everybody, I didn't know about the LaBelle kits and wasn't aware of the graphite! The old saw about "old dogs and new tricks" is bunkum, ain't it?
Deano
Hi, thanks for all your replies. In particular I found the Labelle video most useful.
Best Regards,