Can anyone recommend a slow curing CA adhesive? By slow cure I mean long working time. And just for info, how long is a long working time? I'd like at least a minute; five minutes wouldn't be too long. Clamps and fixtures can easily hold the assembly together. And, I'd prefer a full-bodied gel CA, if available.
Brand name, specific type, cost, size of bottle, shelf life after opening, applicator, where-to-buy . . . if possible.
Thanks,
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
In my limited experience with ca, I can't imagine why you'd need a slow setting time, as most uses of ca use a minute amount and generally involve parts which are in-place, and need only to be secured. Some more information on what you're trying to accomplish may elicit more responses.
Wayne
I've been using Bob Smith Industries CA. You can peruse the selection here:
http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/hobby.html
Ed
PS: If you need more time, consider the epoxies: 5 minute, and "longer"
doctorwayne In my limited experience with ca, I can't imagine why you'd need a slow setting time, as most uses of ca use a minute amount and generally involve parts which are in-place, and need only to be secured. Some more information on what you're trying to accomplish may elicit more responses. Wayne
Hey Doctorwayne-
I'm scratchbuilding a long-span high-level bridge. Here are a couple of photos of a similar one I built about three years ago.
It is 52" overall length and sits in a 60"X6" modular plywood frame that was transported to the club and simply dropped into the layout and attached to the L-girders. For the bridge itself, a bunch of pieces and parts were glued together into sub-assemblies; a bunch of sub-assemblies were glued together into assemblies; and then the assemblies were glued together into the bridge that you see.
The bridge I am building today is 60" long and will not sit in its own modular frame but rather be assembled and installed on my home layout. For a variety of reasons (including ease of painting), I want to assemble the superstructure (everything above the deck) into a single assembly and assemble the deck into a single assembly. Then I want to attach the superstructure to the deck in a single operation. That means I have to apply about 40 or so tiny little dabs of CA to the bottom web of the superstructure and/or to the outer rail of the deck at about 1-1/2" intervals and then attach the whole superstructure to the deck. I figure it will take me about a minute or so to get all the tiny dabs in place, and I need to make sure that the first few dabs haven't hardened before I get ready to make the attachment.
Helpful?
Thanks.
have you though about using uv set glue ?
ROBERT PETRICK...Helpful?
Sorta....what material are you using for the bridge? If you design the bridge so that the superstructure and deck will align, perhaps with some interlocking fixtures, you could use any type of glue, as each connection could be made separately, without fear that the others would be out of line - a snap-together design, I guess, ready to be cemented together. If not interlocking or self-aligning, you could use clamps or spring-type clothes pegs to fasten the superstructure to the deck, then apply the cement at your leisure.
Nice work on the bridge in the photos, by the way.
Robert,
I would use Jewler's cement.....G-S Hypo cement. Very strong, goes on crystal clear, drys crystal clear. Sets in a half hour. You would have to weight it or clamp it, but is extremely strong. I use it alot in My building of miniatures and structures. It is Not a CA:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/G-S-watch-crystal-hypo-cement-3-oz-gl411/148418788
I use it a lot for installing Acetate window glazing in models.......will stick to paint.
Nice Bridge........
Take Care!
Frank
Hey guys-
Thanks for the info.
The material is ABS. The previous build was entirely constructed and glued using thin-as-water solvent weld. Then painted. That's the issue: it was easy enough to assemble, but a royal pain in the buttocks to paint.
What I want to do this time is paint the sub-assemblies first, and then assemble. But . . . once painted, I can't use solvent weld; but I can use small little tiny dabs of CA or something similar. I've thought about Gorilla Glue. It has a slow set time, which is good, but it also has other features which could cause problems.
I think Doctorwayne is on to something. Mechanical joints. That is to say, some kind of pins, or nubs, or small #0 X 3/16" screws at key spots. The glue-after-paint idea just has too many opportunities for smudging and gumming up the finish.
Thanks again.