I'm fallen for a secondhand OMI SD45T-2 can any one who has a similair OMI engine tell me what the minimum radius is that the loco can run through. I have different radius found on the www, ranging from 25" till 31" as minumum ones.
Since my layout has a minimum of 27,5" would it run?
Roll On,
Maarten
Holy moley, nobody even said to the forum.
I guess no one has one, or your post fell to the bottom of the page. All I can tell you is that when people post problems with 6 axle diesels derailing, it is usually with 18" radii or # 4 turnouts. If no one has an answer you might ask the guys at brasstrains.com
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I would give Dan Glasure at Brasstrains.com a call and ask him or his employees if they have an idea. Or, if your on facebook, there is an excellent group for brass operators and collectors and he is a member there, as is one of the behind the scene guys from Overland that handled the custom painting before the Koreans did it on thier own. My OMI GE Dash 8-40B will go around 15" radius track, even pull a train around it. However its not a 6 axle. Mike the Aspie
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
HO Scale Brass Locomotives are not at all cheap! Wouldn't you rather start with something less expensive like Athearn Genesis or Atlas?
Welcome to the forums by the way :)
I prefer to own a few brass engines, vs a bunch of plastic/diecast ones. Just my preferance. I have 3 traction cars, 1 steamer and 1 diesel. HO is a minor modeling scale for me with G with a side of Lionel being the primary. Only one of my brass engines cost more than the plastic version of it. The OMI diesel was $100 at a show in Illinois, the traction cars were $95 for one, $150 and a traded my other brass diesel that I gave $30 for at a show for.
Mike the Aspie
It's good if you can get them at a bargin price around $100 or less.
Most of the time, I see them go for $450-$1,000 or higher. It's crazy!!!
Do you run DC or DCC?
I run DC but have messed around with DCC before. Brass can be had for less than current plastic engines if you shop around and it of coarse will vary on what models you desire. If its the newest diesels from Overland, then yes, its going to be very expensive as the production runs of some versions can be counted on just your fingers. Years ago, runs were of several hundred to over 1000 models in on run or a couple reruns. That changed as plastic model quality and detail started to match and brass became very much the collectors item, or those with greater depth of wallet. Now both of my Overland models are not painted, but will be some day soon. Only one of my 3 traction cars was painted and it was bought in "non running" condition. Solved by replacing a pinched/shorted wire, replacing the motor(it runs really hot due to a bad magnet) and re lubrication. Most brass came out when some tinkering and tuning by the new owner was expected if the model was to be operated and not just put in a display case. Overland Model diesels are some of the best running brass diesels out there, with individual gear boxes on each axle and sprung trucks. Most run really smooth with a bit of a whine from the gear boxes, kind of thier version of the "Kato" drive whistle those models tend to have. Very faint but you can hear it if your hearing is still good. The gentleman I got this GE Dash 8-40B from, also had an unpainted C&NW SD50 or 60 for $100 in its original box. He still had it at the end of the show, which supprised me as that is an absolute steal for an Overland diesel. Just shows, most of todays modelers want it truely RTR, painted with sound/DCC already installed. Rather than buying a model that will need painted, and all the sound/DCC work done if they plan to run it. My recently bought Overland/Rok Am 2-8-0 is from 1977 and runs smoother and quieter than the recent BLI 2-8-0. Folks that hate/dislike brass either dealt with or owned a poor running model at one time or another. Many try to make the jump without research or enlisting the help of someone that knows what is a good model and which ones you need to be a seasoned brass modeler to deal with that models issues. Without proper help/reseach, ones new pride and joy will quickly become the most hated engine in the shed! Mike the Aspie