I have two laser cut wood structures with the peel and stick details, windows and facia and roofs. However, the stickiness for some of the details is now unstuck. Anyone have an idea about an adhesive to use? I am thinking CA.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Dunno about CA. It dries hard and brittle. I fear there might be enough flexing in the detail parts or in the laser cut wood to break the bond. I'd go with contact cement, Walther's Goo or Pliobond. Or acrylic caulking compound. The acrylic won't be too messy if you squeeze a dab of it out into a small container, like a bottle cap, and apply it with a toothpick.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I'm pretty sure Cody used white glue building a wood caboose. He made some errors of assembly and had to take some it apart to fix it, hence he was not confident of the stickiness
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
non acid spray adhesive .
http://mrv.trains.com/how-to/modeling/2016/08/winston-salem-southbound-series-build-a-wood-caboose-kit-part-4
One of the things he did was glue the window frames on from the outside, rather than the inside. He sanded off the sticky adhesive and it the case of the windows, non-load bearing, he diluted the glue. He called it wood glue, but it was in an Elmers bottle and it looked white to me.
If it is a wood kit, yellow carpenters glue should work OK
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
I have some of this stuff in my basket for my next order from MBK:
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/faller-ho-170494-expert-laser-glue-multi-purpose-7-8oz-25g/
So, I haven't tried it — but I'm looking forward to checking it out.
When I did several AMB caboose kits and two story farm house, I used thinned "Formula 560" that I allowed to flow into the joint and haven't had any delamination problems.
Have you primed the wood before assembly? That might make a difference in the stickability of the detail parts.
Good Luck, Ed
Thanks...I did not prime the pieces of the two structures at issue here before I assembled them using wood glue. I did however reinforce the backs of the pieces rather liberally with popsicle sticks. The issue is not the wood walls and roof, it is the windows and, in one case, the fascia. There is no way that I can think of to clamp the details until an adhesive like Elmers sets.
I have been disappointed at the "permanance" of my peel-and-stick models. This is esprecially true of the Chooch rock and stone sheets. I planned on using these in my turntable pits, but after previous experiences I am thinking maybe not.
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Any suggestions for these? I doubt wood or white glue would work well.
We use peel-and-stick stuff all the time in the office, and it lasts for decades. The stuff used in hobbies seems way sub-standard to me.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Ok, so I have a DAP product called DynaGrip construction adhesive. At least one surface has to be porous, anyone have any idea if this stuff will work? And, for what it is worth, the house at issue is the American Model Builders Company House.
Kevin,
It has been My experience with the Chooch brick walls, which I have many, has been they will eventually peel away in time. They say to also not take off the backing when you want to use another type adhesive like contact cement......sad to say....that doesn't work either. The backing will stick great to the contact cement...But their adhesive will peel away from the vinyl brick face. What I then decieded was to take off their adhesive with lacquer thinner, (time consuming by the way) then use straight solvent original contact cement and that solved the problem. Now they don't peel away! Interesting to note.....I needed some more of the same design stone pattern and was all set to take off the adhesive they come with and to My surprise......there was none. They came plain without the adhesive self stick backing.......was a godsend....just used contact cement on them and it worked like a charm. They did come with a separate sheet of adhesive, if you wanted to use it.
The ones I used are the Small Random stone wall #8250, one to a package, not cheap either. I needed 8 of them. Could have saved a lot of time and aggrevation if they would have come without the adhesive originally...............
Take Care!
Frank