Cedarwoodron,
Please check your message box when you have a chance.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Bondo spot putty has always worked well for me.
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Bondo two part body filler in the one gallon cnas also works well for the final coat of terrain profile. It is cleaner and easier to work with than plaster.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I have also used Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty with great results. I find that it doesn't stick to the application tool like the thinner Tamiya putty does, so it is easier to apply. As Wayne said, it sands nicely. When my tube started to dry out after several years, I simply mixed in a little styrene solvent cement to thin it and it was good to go.
I would offer a word of caution. The glazing putty contains solvents that will attack thin styrene if applied too thickly. If you are working with .010" styrene for example, the styrene might soften and distort before the solvents have evaporated. Best to apply several thin layers, letting each one harden before applying the next.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
The brass tender, shown below, had been cut by a previous owner, likely using a cut-off disc, at about the same height as the top of the cistern's side. I'm guessing that he started on the fireman's side, as the cut there was almost the full-length of the bunker, then realised, when turning it around to do the engineer's side, that he had forgotten about the ladder, and it screwed-up the conversion which he was planning.
I soldered some sheet brass to the interior in order to provide some backing, then filled the cuts almost flush to the original surface using JB Kwik Weld, then finished with multiple coats of Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, from a tube.It's much cheaper than modelling-type fillers, has a much better tube-life, and is easier to sand...
The one below is a shortened Bachmann plastic tender, with the joint finished and the model gloss-coated for the application of decals...
...and after painting and lettering...
Wayne
I use auto scratch putty that comes in the tube. It is a one part product, different than most auto body fillers that are two part. If you put it on with any serious thickness it does not harden up. It is best wet sanded with 400 or finer paper. It sticks well to any clean surface.
Lee
I like Fast & Final, carves easy like foam
Does anyone use 3M Bondo as a model putty? My old tube of Squadron white putty dried up and for the price at Walmart - a bit over $3, the large tube seems a good deal. Does it bond well with styrene? I also have some molded PVC connectors and rounded end caps I want to make some fuel tanks with (Home Depot). Has anyone used it in this manner, to seal the hairline joints between pieces?
Cedarwoodron