While I use Microscale decals when necessary, I don't care for the blob of clear film surrounding the lettering, so trim it off completely, as I do with all other brands. I use distilled water to soak the decal, usually on my glass work surface, applying water, as necessary, with my fingertips. I don't find the decals particularly fragile, though, and once they're properly in place, apply a bit of Microsol to hold them there. When that's dry, Solvaset, as many times as is necessary, to finish the job...never had it destroy a Microscale decal.I have a lot of Champ decals, especially dimensional and re-weigh data, stripes and alphabet sets (really miss their wide-ranging selection, especially their more recent Blue ribbon series), and have some that are still useable after more than 40 years...not all of them, mind you, as some fall apart in the water.Black Cat makes some nice and nice-to-use decals, too, and the custom lettering which I got from Rail Graphics is well-done and easy to use.
Wayne
Microsoft's Liquid Decal Film is more flexible than a spray can clear coat.
I don't use any of the decal solutions until the decal is in place and dry. For me, distilled water works better at floating the decal into place.
I have never had a Microscale decal disintegrate since I stopped using Microset to float the decal.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
cedarwoodronIt is frustrating to try to handle decals so delicate that they do not survive the soaking and transfer process.
Cedarwoodron,
It may be your process needs adjusted. Are you floating the decal off in teh water, then applying? Or do you move the wetted decal and backing paper close and float the decal on the small drop of water on its surface onto the model?
You'll have much more success with the latter methd, so try it if that's not what you're doing.
If you still have issues, then it is something likely wrong with the decal, either age or quality control. Microscale makes great decals, but they can be tricky at times to apply.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I have a blue lettered bottle of Microscale "Liquid Decal Film" (item# MI-12) to be brushed on old decals, I presume, as the bottle says "to restore old decals". Would that be the same as my Krylon Clear Gloss coating of my Bel decal paper after being printed?
Cedarwoodron
Not for nothing here, but the thin film of Microscale decals is their calling card. They have the thinnest film in the industry, something that most modelers consider a great asset. Why? Because it looks better. We're tying to imitate painted on lettering and logos, and seeing a clear ring around the art left by thick decal film is not realistic.
The trade off is that they are delicate. You have to be careful when applying them. Also, do not use full strength Solvaset on a Microscale decal or it will dissolve the decal. Solvaset was created to work on armor plated decals like Champ and Walthers decals from the old days. Micro Sol (the red lettered bottle) is used instead. Micro Set (the blue lettered bottle) is used to prep the surface first.
If you put a Microscale decal in the water and it breaks apart, the decal set has been exposed to too much light or too cold a temperature (like being in a freezing UPS truck overnight or in an unheated airplane cargo hold at 30,000 feet). To save the decal, try brushing on Microscale Liquid Decal Film over the art before dunking. This will thicken the decal, but it will save it.
I have some Champ decals that are 20 years old that I want to dry the Krylon on. If they are too fragile to handle, there isn't much downside to trying it.
Don't confuse Microsol with Microset. The -sol makes them really friable.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
The age of the decals may be a factor. I've bought brand new decals at train shows, tried to use them and they pretty much disintegrated. You don't know how long ago the decals have sat on a shelf or hung in a store before making it to the final sale.
A clear gloss coating should solve some of the problems.
Joe
I recently used a some Microscale decals from a sheet bought nt too long ago. The logo decals, as well as the lettering decals required multiple attempts to apply to the model, as they appeared to be very thin and easily distorted. When I do my own decals, using Bel clear decal paper, I print them on my Canon inkjet, then follow up with several passes of Krylon Clear Gloss and allowing them 24 hrs to dry completely, as the decal paper instructions state. I have never had an issue with the stability of these decals when soaking them and then applying them.
With the Microscale decals, should I follow the same procedure (spraying with a clear gloss coat and allowing to dry) as I do for my own. It is frustrating to try to handle decals so delicate that they do not survive the soaking and transfer process. At the cost of the Microscale decals, it becomes tedious to spend money where material is wasted.
Feedback?????