Darth .... Thanks for the info. I'll try it....
I have used a cloth with WD40 in it on brass models that will not be painted soon. It does not get rid of all of the discoloration, but it does protect from further tarnishing.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Here's an update on the plating!
Now this is a lengthy process, and suddenly, I see why chrome plating services are so freakishly expensive! Plate it, buff if, plate it again, buff it again, plate it again, buff it more, plate the few remaining thin spots, and give it a final buffing. And for the buffing, I ended up having to use a fine steel wire wheel because the chrome is so hard! Sure came out nice though!
_________________________________________________________________
Hi there. I use the Badger sandblaster with baking soda. I does a nice job and gets into small corners much better than anything done by hand. I did not regret that purchase. But it is a bit messy...
Keep us posted about the plating process!
Simon
OT DeanI've used Brasso on my O scale brass locos, but it dries to a whitish residue that turns to dust when you (have to) clean it off with a soft cloth---which can snag on little brass parts.
I have six brass locos, PFM/Balboa..HO scale and use Brasso polish, put on with a soft toothbrush/flat artist brush. When dried, I take it off with warm water with a wide flat artist brush......no dust or white residue. Then buff with a round cotton woven buffing pad like is used to buff aluminum wheels, but smaller and stick it in My flex shaft pencil wizard....which is the B&D version of a Dremel. The speed is adjustable from 1000 rpm to 18,000 rpm. Works like a charm for Me....
Take Care!
Frank
Edit: I've since had them enamaled and are in glass display case's.....no more cleaning oxidation. They go to the Grandkids.
I've used Brasso on my O scale brass locos, but it dries to a whitish residue that turns to dust when you (have to) clean it off with a soft cloth---which can snag on little brass parts. I've also used the old standby, Barkeepers Friend, which now comes in a liquid, but while it cleans off just about anything, it also leaves a coppery shean. It can, however, be removed after it's done its work with a soft brush. I don't mind the coppery hue, since I'm planning to hand- and airbrush in proper colors. Good luck!
Deano
I've heard of Brasso, but I wanted to see if there was also a cheap home remedy. The stuff I made didn't take off discoloration, but that did come off extremely easily after!
I'll be sure to post pictures of the finished model! I'm using a plating similar to chrome, which looks very close to stainless steel depending on how it's finished.
Sounds to Me like neither of You posters have been in the Military Service.....One Word Brasso....best brass cleaner you will ever find....
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Brasso-8-oz-Metal-Polish-76523/202820651
Darth Santa FeIt's an ATSF E1 set, so I'm going to plate it and paint it.
.
Wow, that is ambitious.
I hope it turns out good. Please post pictures.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Jacques Pepin cleans his copper pots with lemon juice and salt.
Brasstrains.com talked about painting throughout series 2. I forget the name of their paint guru, but I think he soda blasted a car. Soda blasting is baking soda as a media instead of glass beads. It is less aggressive.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
It's an ATSF E1 set, so I'm going to plate it and paint it. Plating's a touchy process, and requires that the surface have perfect conductivity and be free of contaminates. I'm sure there will be other cases where I just clear coat the bare metal though, like on old tinplate trains.
Darth,
Are you going to apply another clear coat and display the locomotive?
I have an older brass piece with some massive tarnish and foam rot around it. I used acetone and a wire wheel to take care of the foam and Samsongsa's clear coat, but what about the tarnish? I found an interesting solution for that.
Mix up 2 parts baking powder with 1 part lemon juice and make a foamy paste (1 tablespoon powder and half tablespoon juice is enough for one average HO scale model). Scrub it onto the brass piece with your hand or a toothbrush, making sure the piece is fully coated and has the stuff in every crevice. Leave it for half an hour, scrub it off with warm water and a toothbrush, and the tarnish is gone! If you missed anything, just do it again. This won't get rid of chemical discoloration from the foam, but the tarnish will be all gone (you can check with a short circuit test). It's cheap, easy, safe and clean.