I hand laid track and stub turnouts some years ago. Very nice flowing but not prototypical if you count all the rivets. Many do not. Spikes are the size of spears. A spike every so often.
So did our club back in the 1980’s. Never any issues at turnouts. Big difference when we expanded into another room with three foot sections of track and purchased turnouts. We got comments from a few rivet counters. lol
I bike by a right of way and spikes at every tie, with tie plates.
Two spikes on the inside of the rail and two spikes on the outside of the rail at each tie plate.
New rails and ties now have Pandrol 'e-Clip in my area of New England. Pan Am Railway and Amtrak.
But it is your railroad.
If it is a concern, get your dial caliper out and measure the spikes and look up the spikes used.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Chip,
You already have the stuff, so why not?
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I use one of these to lay the ties. Really makes it a lot easier.
This may be out of the OP's price range, but for those wanting to hand lay track, http://www.ohrtracksupply.com/ will rent their aluminum templates to make a variety of turnouts and specialty tracks.
There are many skills I wish I had. I am of an age where I have to accept that I am not the ultimate Renissance man and I just can't master everything.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I may do that, otherwise they are some very expensive pieces of finely machined alumninum just gathering dust. I have a #6 turnout jig, plus the PointForm tool, TieBreaker, and a few other bits. Even still have the wood billboard they give you, in the container so it's unbroken despite 2 moves.
Maybe I should give it one more try, if Peco rail will fit properly. Since I have about 8 lengths of Peco rail from when the USPS destroyed my first order of Peco flex. 4 lengths of tie strip, too.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
You can still use your fast track jigs, but you will have to use styrene or other shims. Personally I would e-bay the stuff and buy what is needed. By the way, you say you don't have much of a budget but have fast track jigs, seems like a money maker to me as the jigs are the most expencive part of those turnouts with rail running about a buck and other parts coming out to around out less than two and that is not getting a deal of which there are plenty online. I bout my fast track jigs for $50 on e-bay but sold them as I was able to buy Shinohara turnouts for $5 last year on e-bay.
Like most things, the answer is "it depends". I tried making my own turnouts with Fast Tracks jigs. And have decided that it's just not for me. But is it for you? It might be. And like Eric said, what's the worst that could happen? You're not buying anything extra, you already have the stuff. So if it works out, great. If not, you haven't invested anything other than some time in finding this out. I probably should have tried more traditional methods before investing in Fast Tracks tooling, but I was convinced I could do it after watching endless videos AND seeing it done in person multiple times. Ironically, the very first one I did was the best one. Every one I tried after that, I either couldn't get good frog points, or I couldn't get good frog rails. And of course my tooling I had cut for Atlas Code 83 rail, not ME.
I have hand laid track in the past and it was ok, about 60’. Would I do it again, no and only because I found the Central Valley tie strips. Much easier and quicker with more detail than hand-laid IMO.
But, you have some product, if you have the time and patience, I’d say yes go for it. It is a good experience. I would use the Proto products for greater detail, but using real wood for ties maybe enough detail for you. I have not seen the Peco track, but for me the CV tie strips using codes 83 and 70 ME Rail is great. I also have some ME code 83 flex and the details are also very good.
Just try it, you may enjoy it.
TomO
When it comes to the turnouts, you will have a learning curve. But once you get one built half decent you have a good sense of accomplishment. Well worth the challange.
Only areas on my layout with premade track are the hidden areas. The rest is handlaid. The look and flexability cannt be beat. People who have scene it forget about tie plates and such details they are too busy being amazed at the realistic look of the ties and rails together. I find it easier to adjust the track if issues do pop up You can get a good rough track look that you cannt get with premade. And still have the trains track well. There are lots of advantages to handlaid track. On a layout as small as yours, it will be worth the effort. Keep in mind the learning curve
Wolfie
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
If you really want 'scale' spikes, try the ones from Proto87. But they are a challenge to install.
Others have already said it, but +1 for trying it and seeing if you enjoy it. There's also no rule saying if you handlay some track, you have to handlay all of it-- for hidden or staging track especially, I would recommend something bulletproof.
I handlaid my turnouts in Code 83 (the Fast Tracks jigs, by the way, make things easier but aren't a non-negotiable for making turnouts-- I printed the templates off the site and glued some thin basswood strips to it to hold the PCB ties in place. After teething on the first one, the next ten or so came out great, and they were all different sizes.) On my last two layouts, everything else was Atlas flex. I'm handlaying now, mostly for fun, but I also have a tenth of your space to cover.
Phil
I have hand laid track on my layout. To me, there is no way plastic ties can look like stained wood, no matter who makes them. After I did my first section of hand laid track I had a 6-year-old visitor to my layout. When he saw the hand laid section of track, he asks me "are those real wood?" Since then I have had other visitors to my layout and almost every one of them commented on the 'real wood' ties. Having visitors notice and comment on the wood ties makes it all worthwhile.
I have never made my own switches. But, I have modified Shinohara switches. I remove a few random ties from the switch. Then I glue wood ties in their place. I do leave a plastic tie here and there to hold everything together. Once the glue dries I replace a few more. I end up with a good-looking, functional switch. Then like an idiot, I tried to relocate them and the glue from the ballast, although wet with water, pulled some of the ties off and bent some of the rails. My guess is the glue soaked into the wood making a really strong bond. I haven't done anymore switches like that since. When I do, I will ballast around the switches with no glue.
Hey, what's the worst that could happen?
You have the supplies.
If you don't like doing it, stop.
You'll never know if you don't try.
Eric
Since you already have the supplies, build one turnout and see how it goes. Then you can make a better decision.
Good luck
Paul
If you have the time to handlay track, go for it.
For me, the satisfaction of building my own track was significant. Like you, I wasn't sure about doing it to start with, but after I did the first few feet and the first turnout (which actually worked, to my amazement!) I lost my trepidation and continued confidently onward. I found that the yard throat I laid was a particularly satisfying accomplishment.
Microscale flextrack is cetainly more realistic looking than my handlaid track, and even the code 83 Atlas track is probably more realistic too, but prefab track doesn't give me the same level of satisfaction by a long shot.
I don't do it anymore because of the time it takes.
Try it. You can always stop if you find it tedious.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Give it a try in a section of your layout, or even on a test board. I taught myself to hand lay switches, cuz in code 70 and 55 (HO) they're cheaper, and once you get it down, you can have them anywhere. I have several curved switches, custom made for where they are. I make them at the bench on copper clad ties at all the strategic points, then install them and fill in the rest with wood ties.
On the other hand, they eat time. Just tonight I decided to replace two # 4s in a too abrupt crossover. (Been putting that off a long time) My 2-10-2s can't make it through it at all, and diesels can, but look goofy doing so. It took about 4 hours to make one #8, and it has about 1 hour to go. Getting back in practice will make that go faster, it's been a few years. Still...
I tried to hand lay regular track once. Flex track suddenly took on great appeal!
Dan
I agree with Kevin: one of the "selling points" of handlaid used to be the "free-flowing curves"....similar to the ones you can now get with flex track. The flex track has spike heads and tie plates, too. If you're modelling in Proto 87, I'd say "perhaps", but we wanna see at least four spikes in every tie, logging road or not.Likewise for handlaid turnouts: you can build them to suit almost every unusual requirement that you might encounter, but with a little forethought or perhaps some adjustment, there's likely a commercially available turnout that will work just fine, and look like it belongs with your detailed flex track.I'm not knocking those who handlay tracks and build turnouts, as I've done both in the past. My preference nowadays is flex track and pre-made turnouts - Gaaach!!! I just realised that I'm already on the slippery slope to accepting ready-to-run rolling stock.
Wayne
If you are just looking for oppinoins... her is my worthless one:
.
I don't like handlaid track. I think all the current manufactured lines of track look better. If you really knew how to build better (more reliable) turnouts, I would do it, but from your desciption it does not sound like you are an expert.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I've made no bones about the fact that I'm on a meager budget. Well, about 10 years ago--about the time the wife annexed the layouts property rights--I was going to make a small 3 x 5 layout and I was going to handlay everything, just to say I did it.
So here's the deal. I already have 66 3 ft pieces of Code 55 ME rail, a half a shoebox of ties, spikes, spike pliers--everything I need to lay 900 inches of track. Well, except homosote.
My biggest expense on the layout is the track. I pretty much have everything else. If I were to hand-lay the road to my mine and logging camp, I would cut my track expenses by one third and I could buy a sound decoder or two. And it would look cool.
There are two obstacles that I can see.
1) The mine and logging camp are high and toward the center of the layout. The mine will be at about 56" and the logging camp will be at about 62". The table is 42" across so the center point would be 21 inches in. I can see my arms getting tired.
2) I'll probably have to build about 10 turnouts. Now on the plus side, I have a pretty good working idea of how turnouts work and what I need to do from building a bunch of Fasttracks turnouts. Unfortunately, Code 55 track won't work in my jigs. The idea of hand-laying turnouts still kinda freeks me out.
3) A total plus. If I hand-lay those turnouts, I will have enough materials to build the rest of the turnouts on the layout without ordering more materials from Fasttracks. If I run everything in Code 83 flex, I'll have to place an order with Fasttracks.
So guys what do you think? Do I man up and do it? Or should I just buy the flex track and getterdone?
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.