Handrails for Athearn SD40-2's

[RR_Mel]

I’d go with the ideas above with one exception, I’d use .02” bronze wire.  It’s less bendable than brass and easier than piano wire.  It would look better if you used round nose pliers to prevent sharp angles.  I made the handrails on several of my Cab Forwards with bronze wire over the weekend.

 

Tichy Train Group #1103 .02” Phosphor Bronze Wire

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=.02%22+bronze+rod&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Tichy+Train+Group+%231103+.02%E2%80%9D+Phosphor+Bronze+Wire&_sacat=0

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bronze wire solders easy, piano wire doesn't.

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[Little Timmy]

I agree with DR. Wayne . Do everything he suggested, plus this .....

Make your jig out of wood, that way you can change the hole's spacing in the future for different application's. ( I have been using the same block of wood for year's ! Lot's of hole's in it ! )

[doctorwayne]

Making several at one time would require an equal number of jigs, and that sounds to me like a not very efficient use of your time.

I'm not too familiar with that model, but I'd guess that you'd need, at most, three different jigs - one for each side if the handrail shape varies from one side to the other, and I'm not referring to the obviously conflicting bends needed for inserting into holes moulded into the body shell.  A third would likely be sufficient to do railings for both of the ends.

I'd suggest foregoing the brass wire, and using piano wire instead - it's far more durable and will better withstand the usual handling model locomotives often get. It's a little harder to bend, but working to a fixed form will make it easier to get it right on the first try.  That springy resistance to bending is what makes it so durable once installed.

If the PSC stanchions mount atop the walkways, you may have to plug the mould-in openings on the sides, but use them to mark out the proper spacing before filling them.

Temporarily mount the handrail, add the stanchions, then use a small machinist's square to align everything to your satisfaction.  Then, place a small puddle of ca on an impervious surface and dip the tip of an X-Acto #11 blade into it, using the blade to touch each joint, both at the handrail and the mounting holes.  Once all is secure, use a brush to paint with the appropriate colour(s).

Wayne

[BNSFConductor]

I have several Athearn RTR SD40-2's in Milwaukee Road that I'm in the process of upgrading.  I want to replace the handrails and stanchions with Precision Scale stanchions and brass wire handrails.  I have the stanchions and the brass wire to make the handrails.  Since I have several locomotives to do, I need a jig that is simple enough to make and I can produce several handrails at one time for all four sides of the locomotive.  Thanks