hon30critter RR_Mel Worked out pretty good for an 80 year old with way too much shaky hands to paint with a brush. Nice paint job Mel! Dave
RR_Mel Worked out pretty good for an 80 year old with way too much shaky hands to paint with a brush.
Nice paint job Mel!
Dave
RR_MelWorked out pretty good for an 80 year old with way too much shaky hands to paint with a brush.
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thanks everyone for all the great information - trim the edge of regular masking tape, use either 3M Fine Line or Tamiya masking tape, spray away from the tape edge, apply the paint in thin coats, remove the tape after the paint has dried just a bit, pull it back at a sharp angle to remove it.
So much help in so little time - thank you everyone,
Jeff
Since I discovered it for my WWII plastic aircraft modeling I have used nothing but Tamiya's masking tape. It is thin comes in different widths and comes up very easily. I have never lifted any paint since I have been using it. You can get it at any hobby shop that specializes in scale modeling or Hobby Lobby. It also comes in its handy roll holder that can be reused as they sell refills.
SB
I second the use of the fineline tape, which is very stretchy thin plastic rather than thinner-gauge material (so be advised there will still be a little meniscus-related 'ledge' buildup at the line if you do not follow previous advice) that is specially made to bond right out to its stock edge.
Note that fineline tape comes in the next best thing to sterile packaging, and you have to KEEP it that way, as the 'adhesive to the edge' will pick up lint like crazy and little nicks and dents will produce visible results. This applies to any particulates in the air, too, so if you don't use the moral equivalent of a paint booth be aware of dust and try to keep it down. I find it is less easy to trim edge on this tape; as it is so flexible you need an EXTREMELY sharp blade to cut it lengthwise close to its edge without some irregular stretch deformation (and the necessarily-obsessively-cleaned glass or mirror surface will dull or turn that edge quickly so be prepared to learn and execute the art of honing 'early and often'). Seldom is this level of technique preferable to careful keeping the tape carefully 'sterile' in the first place. (Don't store it where the turns on the roll can sag, or where stuff could bang it through the bag, either...)
This may be somewhat peripheral to the immediate discussion, but you can't leave most masking tape on a painted surface too long. The bond consolidates the longer it sits in contact; even many of the 'blue' tapes advertised as having longer working time give you only a few additional days. So there is a further consideration beyond paint drying characteristics that should be at least kept in mind -- don't go on vacation with the color separation still masked off.
Is there a role in this discussion for thinned frisket or similar materials forming the actual 'paint edge' but backed up by masking tape?
And as odd as it might sound, masking tape does have a shelf life. Old tape gets hard and brittle and really sticks to the undercoat. So try to use tape before its use by date.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
I don't use masking tape for dual/tri-color paint job's. Masking tape is really too thick for a great color separation. The only type tape I use for color separation is 3M Fine line tape. Comes in a lot of widths and does a excellant job, everytime. One roll will last a long time. You layit out on the model lightly burnish one edge where Your line will be and just lightly press the other side, You may then use masking tape if You want for a wider coverage. I use blue painters tape when I need to. Once You try the fine line tape.......You will understand. Been using it for many, many yrs. Any Automotive paint supply will carry it.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Scotch-Fine-Line-Tape-218/?N=5002385+3293241622&rt=rud
Take Care!
Frank
As others have said, I remove the tape when the paint is barely dry. If you wait until its dry, it will likely cling to the tape in spots and ruin the edge.
Also, when painting, I always point the paint away from the taped edge. Shooting paint towrds the edge will inevitibly cause some paint to work under the tape as well as cause excessive build up along the edge.
Pointing the nozzle away from the edge will help keep the paint thin and the separation between the two colors flatter. Plan ahead for how you're going to paint the model.
- Douglas
I usually remove the tape as soon as the paint is dry to the touch. If you want the least risk of lifting paint that's under the tape, lift it enough to get a good grip on it, then slowly peel it off over itself, keeping the portion that you're gripping close and parallel to the tape that's still in place. This places the least stress on the paint underlying the tape.
To get clean demarcation between colours, with less chance of bleeding, place the tape, sticky-side-down, on a clean, smooth, hard surface - a sheet of glass works well. Use a sharp blade and straightedge to trim-off both edges of the tape: as soon as you take the protective cellophane off the roll of tape and set it down, you begin to damage the edges with little nicks and dings. And if there's any dust where you store it, the edges of the tape will collect some of it. Also, if the roll of tape has been around for a while, the adhesive near the edges will begin to dry out, lessening the chances that it'll stay stuck when you start to paint.
My reason for trimming both edges is that when you pick it up from the glass, then need to set it down for some reason, you needn't worry which edge is the "good one".
Wayne
I vote for removing the masking tape as soon as the solvent has evaporated and before the paint sets up. If you wait you will most certainly find out if your last coat of paint has adhered solidly to what's underneath or not. If it hasn't adhered properly then you will tear the edge of the paint line and really tick yourself off.
The way you take the tape off is also important. You want to pull the tape away from the new paint instead of towards it, and it is best to do it slowly.
Regardless of how you do it, you need to be prepared to do some touch up either to cover paint that has leaked under the tape or to fix tears in the edge of the paint line. In other words, don't expect your masking to work 100% every time.
There are other factors to take into account. One is how you apply the paint. If you put the paint on in one or two heavy coats you are inviting the paint to bleed under the masking tape. A better approach is to apply several very thin coats and allow them to 'flash off' (in other words, allow the liquid to evaporate) between coats. The coats should be thin enough that you can barely see the first two or three applications. The thin coat of paint will flash off before it has the chance to flow under the tape. As an added benefit, the paint will not build up in the nooks and crannies thereby filling them up and losing the detail.
There is another way to seal the tape edge and that is to apply a clear coat before applying the colour. If the clear coat bleeds under the tape a bit so what. You won't be able to see it when the tape is finally removed. You still have to apply both the clear coat and colour coats in thin layers.
That brings up the question of what you are using to spray the paint. If you are using spray cans, particularly Testors, it is very difficult to put down a thin, even coat. (Testors Dulcote and Glosscote spray cans are OK if you make quick passes). Bottom line is that if you want great results and you don't have an air brush yet, buy one!
Good luck!
I've read many threads about painting but have never seen a recommendation for when to remove any masking tape used to separate colors. Is it best to remove the tape soon after spraying or wait for the paint to dry completely?
All help appreciated,