So, idealy, I should be at a beginning stage of super detailing right now, but I'm not. How about that, eh? There's just one lil' thing standing in my way, I don't know where to start :/
I want to try super detailing something really basic before I even breathe on my Highliner F3 Kit (that, may I remind you, is currently preordered). So, I want to do a boxcar! Nothing like a good ol' rectangle on wheels. I figured that since there aren't too many unique details on a boxcar and I have a reference for putting one together (TSG Multimedia's 'Model Building' series), I'd take a crack at it! I've been looking at 40' AAR kit in no particular scheme to put together. I'll probably put it under my own markings down the road, anyways. Unfortunately, I don't have a kit or the tools to put it together. I can track down a kit easily (there's a convention in Costa Mesa in about a week), so it's really down to the tools.
What should I expect to get and how much should I spend? I plan on maybe getting some brass wire to attempt bending my own uncoupling levers and handrails (where applicable).
The kits most readily available these days would be Accurail and they are simple to assemble. They mainly manufacture cars with road names. However, they also make a few that are undecorated, or come painted with just the data markings.
The Accurail kits will run you $15-$16 and would make a nice first project for super-detailing. I'm sure Wayne will chime with plenty of examples for you to view.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I second Tom's suggestion an Accurail kit is great, they're easy to assemble, the details are reasonable, and the paint is very clean, not like the two Athearn RTR boxcars I bought last year... Good luck!
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
The Jet ClipperI plan on maybe getting some brass wire to attempt bending my own uncoupling levers and handrails (where applicable).
Thats fine, I think we all have done it, and I'm sure many still do. Just make your self some type of jig, so each handrail you bend is the same. The slightest difference in alignment and shape shows.
You'll also have brake gear, and piping, and under frame details, if your going that far.
I'm not sure how far the Accurail kits go with detail parts.
Decals can be a whole nether project. Weight details, build date, car number, any tracking and monitering details, and plaques, it can get quite "detailed" depending on your chosen "prototype"
Just more to think about, if your "super" detailing.
Have fun! show us your build!
Mike.
My You Tube
The Jet Clipper What should I expect to get and how much should I spend?
What should I expect to get and how much should I spend?
That's sort of a trick question, right?
You should get all the tools that you need to do the job!!!!
OK.
That said, that's not an unreasonable question. I do believe that, back in the olden days, "Model Trains" used to supply a list of tools for building the kits it reviewed.
I believe someone will supply a list, here. So I won't start.
I will point you to Kalmbach Books, which undoubtedly publishes a book on the subject.
Ed
To build a simple kit, such as an Accurail car, all that's needed is an X-Acto knife with a #11 blade, and a set of small screwdrivers for mounting the trucks and couplers. Some solvent-type cement for any plastic-to-plastic gluing and some ca for plastic to metal (for Accurail cars, that's only for gluing the brakewheel onto the metal shaft, and the metal shaft to the car, if you're modelling an era were wooden-type cars were used). A pair of ordinary blunt-nosed pliers is useful if you're adding Kadee couplers to the car - you may need to adjust the height of the uncoupling pin.If you want to get into superdetailing, the list of tools available is likely beyond most budgets. What you need will be determined by what you want to accomplish. While I have a few specialised tools intended for model work, most are tools that any person who can do simple home or automobile repairs might own. Don't go out and buy a long list of tools before you know if you'll even need them. I improvised for years, and in many cases, still do. You'll learn what interests you and what doesn't, and then you'll get the tools that you need to do that type of work.
I don't think that there's much point in me posting photos of my own Accurail cars, or any others, as none have been built as simple "stock" versions, and most wouldn't be considered superdetailed either.
Wayne
Hey Clipper!
Super detailing is a lot of fun, and you can take it as far as you want.
The first suggestion I would make is to buy hardened brass or phosphor bronze wire instead of the softer plain brass. The reason is that the harder materials will withstand handling whereas the softer brass is easily deformed. Tichy sells phosphor bronze in several sizes. The closest size to HO scale is the .0125".
https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_wire/Default.aspx
As doctorwayne says, tools can get expensive but you can often improvise. Here is a basic list. The links are just to illustrate the tools. I'm not suggesting that you necessarily need to buy that exact tool:
- Xacto knife with #11 blades and and #17 small chisel blades. The chisel blades are used to remove molded on details like grab irons. You might consider getting a couple of handles so you don't have to change blades when you want a different shape. Also, used blades are great for applying small amounts of glue.
http://xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades
- Pin vise and a selection of bits. Don't buy a drill bit set with only one bit of each size! The bits break easily so if you buy the set of bits and break the size you need your are out of business. Select several sizes and buy a few of each size. A suitable selection might be sizes #79, 77, 75, 72, 68, 64. #80 bits break too easily. Don't buy bits with a 1/4" shank! They are not designed for hand use and they will break as soon as you look at them funny. Bulk drill bits are available from most hobby suppliers. You might consider buying a couple of pin vises so you don't have to change bits so often: https://www.micromark.com/Swivel-Hd-Pin-Vise-0-1-8
- Small wire cutters. Make sure that you do the cutting so that the cut piece can't fly off into the ether, and don't use your finger to hold the end of the cut piece. The force of cutting will drive the wire right into your finger (ask me how I know). Doctorwayne uses a different method to cut his wire. He uses a #11 blade on a sheet of glass and he gets good results.
- Small needle nosed pliers.
- Small round tipped pliers (optional). These are used to form curves. https://www.micromark.com/Small-Wire-Loop-Pliers
- Jeweller's screwdriver set.
- Small jeweller's files. Here is one example: https://www.micromark.com/mini-hand-tools/files. Some people suggest that you should have two sets, one for plastic and one for metal. I just have one set.
- Small wire brush for cleaning the files. https://www.micromark.com/Stainless-Steel-Wire-Brushes-Set-of-2
- Tweezers. I prefer the kind with normally closed jaws. I see to drop less stuff with the closed jaws. https://www.micromark.com/search?page=2&keywords=tweezers
- Small spatula or putty knife (optional) for applying putty. https://www.micromark.com/search?keywords=spatula
- Razor saw (not necessary for detailing, but if you get into kit bashing it will come in handy). https://www.micromark.com/4-in-1-Zona-Saw-Set
- Cutting mat (optional - you can use a sheet of glass or an old plastic cutting board). https://www.micromark.com/12-inches-by-18-inches-Cutting-Mat_2
- Styrene cement. Don't use the Testors thick gel in a tube. It is way too messy. Use water thin cement. Tamiya makes a great one. There are lots of others. There are cheaper alternatives if you need larger quantities, but a bottle of the Tamiya stuff goes a long way.
- Gel CA (crazy glue), and thin CA.
- Epoxy. It it usually rated to set in five minutes. Some vendors sell 90 second epoxy which is much easier to work with IMHO.
- Modelling putty. Squadron and Tamiya both make good stuff. Apply in thin coats or it can melt the styrene.
If you are making several of the same items, like grab irons or cut levers, it helps a lot if you make up jigs. .040" styrene sheet is ideal. You may also use a variety of styrene strips to modify details as well. Evergreen makes a huge selection of styrene sheets and shapes. Almost all hobby shops carry their stuff.
There! That ought to put a dint in your bank account!!
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Welcome to the wrold of detailed models! We welcome you.
.
Starters, buy any old Red Caboose or Intermounain 40 foor boxcar from ebay, expect to spend $15.00-$20.00 with shipping. This will get you an idea how ladders and grabs are arranged and where the braking components go. Be careful removing parts from the sprues. It takes 3-5 light passes with a #11 blade to get them free without breaking.
Then I would suggest a Tichy 40' boxcar. A little more difficult and a lot more drilling. Undecorated only, so you get to paint it also. Again, $15.00-$20.00 should be enough.
Finally, build a Funaro & Camerlengo boxcar kit. All resin. Lots of parts to fit. Pretty much scratchbuilding with help. $25.00 - $40.00 should be all you need. Expect to spend some time and do some online research to figure out the instructions.
Read the previous sugestions about tools from Wayne and Dave. They are all good.
Post pictures and ask for help. I am glad you want to leave the ready to run world and build an awesome freight car fleet. That is great.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
7j43kYou should get all the tools that you need to do the job!!!!
Ed,A standard pair of quality side cutters should work for cutting wire,the other tools is your basic every day hobby tools like screwdrivers,pliers,nippers,dikes,NMRA and a Kato coupler height gauges etc and a good jig for cutting uncoupling bars is needed.
No need for fancy tools for a Accurail kit and super detailing. Come to think about it after market detailing parts may be the best route when it comes to detailing.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
NWP SWP I second Tom's suggestion an Accurail kit is great, they're easy to assemble, the details are reasonable, and the paint is very clean, not like the two Athearn RTR boxcars I bought last year... Good luck!
not to hijack the thread but it is relevant to the op. What glue are you guys using for the accurail kits? I have 3 and have never built any and wanna do what the op is asking.
Mike
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Additional tools to consider (from looking around at my workbench)
machinist's squares (the 2" is the size I use most):
machinist's scales (what most people call rulers)(I recommend a 6" one with 1/50 markings as being the easiest to use):
And also an HO scale rule:
A dial caliper is also pretty handy, at about $25.
And files. My favorites are 4" needle files (though 6" are easier to find). Needle file lengths are measured overall, regular file lengths are only for the cutting surface length. Flat, square, round, triangle are good shapes. As is any other, when you need it.
With tweezers, the cross-action can be useful, by my favorites are "regular", but with a very "soft" action.
Optivisors are very handy, for many of us.
And also a sharp scribe, for doing layout and for make a start point for a drill bit.
And still more: taps and a tap handle and appropriate sized bits. Taps are for threading a hole for a screw. Some screws are "self-threading". Others aren't.
These can be handy when you want to glue up something square:
I do recommend getting a catalog from Micro-Mark. And thumbing through it every once in awhile to see if anything looks "necessary". They aren't the only source for tools, but the catalog does kind of give a person ideas.
rs2mikeWhat glue are you guys using for the accurail kits? I have 3 and have never built any and wanna do what the op is asking.
Depending on the particular Accurail kit, there is little- to no- gluing required.
For gluing plastic to plastic, use a solvent-type liquid cement, as offered by Testors and others. If the parts are painted, scrape off the paint on the areas to be joined.
For metal-to-plastic and metal-to-metal joints, ca works well, but again, remove paint from the areas to be joined. While many buy hobby-specific brands, I prefer basic Krazy glue for its lower cost. Any joints made using ca of any brand will be stronger if there's a mechanical aspect to the joint. On an Accurail car, the only situation of which I'm aware where this would come into play is when attaching the brake wheel to the supplied piece of wire representing the brake staff on wood-type cars. The brake wheel has a nub on its underside, complete with a hole to accept the wire: press the wire into the brake wheel, then use the tip of a #11 blade to apply a minute amount of ca to the joint. It will be drawn into the joint, completing the bond.
Some Accurail cars come with basic underbody brake gear rigging. This is a plastic not generally suitable for holding with most common types of glue, but simply presses or snaps into place.
Lots of good modelling advice in this thread. Thanks for posting it.
Its just a step to the left.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
[/quote]
I never saw those before but was planning on making something like with an additional part on the end for making my lumber loads using wood and a hot glue gun - should be easy enough.
What does one of those set you back at MicroMark
riogrande5761Its just a step to the left.
Ummmm... It is actually just a JUMP to the left, then a step to the right. Then the hands go on the hips...
Don't dream it... BE IT!
doctorwayne rs2mike What glue are you guys using for the accurail kits? I have 3 and have never built any and wanna do what the op is asking. Depending on the particular Accurail kit, there is little- to no- gluing required. For gluing plastic to plastic, use a solvent-type liquid cement, as offered by Testors and others. If the parts are painted, scrape off the paint on the areas to be joined. For metal-to-plastic and metal-to-metal joints, ca works well, but again, remove paint from the areas to be joined. While many buy hobby-specific brands, I prefer basic Krazy glue for its lower cost. Any joints made using ca of any brand will be stronger if there's a mechanical aspect to the joint. On an Accurail car, the only situation of which I'm aware where this would come into play is when attaching the brake wheel to the supplied piece of wire representing the brake staff on wood-type cars. The brake wheel has a nub on its underside, complete with a hole to accept the wire: press the wire into the brake wheel, then use the tip of a #11 blade to apply a minute amount of ca to the joint. It will be drawn into the joint, completing the bond. Some Accurail cars come with basic underbody brake gear rigging. This is a plastic not generally suitable for holding with most common types of glue, but simply presses or snaps into place. Wayne
rs2mike What glue are you guys using for the accurail kits? I have 3 and have never built any and wanna do what the op is asking.
thanks Doc
riogrande5761 These can be handy when you want to glue up something square: I do recommend getting a catalog from Micro-Mark. And thumbing through it every once in awhile to see if anything looks "necessary". They aren't the only source for tools, but the catalog does kind of give a person ideas. Ed
That's not a Micro-Mark one. The pictured one is neat because it's finished both on the inside and outside corners:
https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-3402-0443-Steel-Right-2-Side/dp/B00N41G36M/ref=sr_1_103?ie=UTF8&qid=1517020654&sr=8-103&keywords=angle+plate
Micro-Mark sells outside-only "angle plates":
#60713 one inch $12.95
#20123 two inch $20.95
#60626 three inch $24.95
#60714 set of three sizes $49.95
The Jet ClipperSo, I want to do a boxcar!
I would suggest one of the Branchline Blueprint (not Yardmaster) series of kits. This isn't superdetailing, per se, but they do have lots of little fiddly bits that need to be glued on (and often filed or drilled a bit first), and will give you a good feel for working with small bits and pieces. I've built a few of them and greatly enjoyed the process. You'll find them on EBay, but I often see them at shops and hobby shows, forlorn and forgotten by the RTR crowd, for $9-$16.
Tools: A sprue nipper is a must-have, as is a sharp X-Acto knife. A good comfy pin vise is a must-have for wire grabs and (on the Blueprint kits) cleaning paint out of holes. I have bought a couple of the drill bit assortments and inevitably wind up spilling them and not knowing which bit is which. I buy the bits I use most often (78, 80) in lots of 10, cheap on eBay. Files are good to have as well, but I often use emery boards, which I cut or break into thinner strips as needed.
For superdetailing diesels, you could always buy a blue box Athearn GP38-2, GP40-2, or one of the other new models that has dimples for drilling and applying grab irons and eye bolts. Go to your local hobby shop, ask where the box of old Details West and Details Associats parts is, then go crazy adding equipment boxes, beacons, bells, horns, chains, rerailer frogs, step treads... Just like this post, you'll find it difficult to stop once you start. :)
On a personal note: I bought all kinds of parts with the idea of superdetailing those old Athearns, but I've used few of them. Instead I've turned to blue- and tan-box Proto 2000 models for inexpensive-and-nicely-detailed locos, and I get my kit-building fiddly-bit ya-yas out with the aforementined Branchline kits (freight and passenger - their passenger cars are wonderfully detailed and a heck of a bargain at $15 or so). I recently found a Red Caboose reefer that looks like a nice challenge (the models have apparently since been sold to Intermountain), and I'm on the lookout for more. I tried a couple of Front Range/McKean kits, but I've found badly-molded bits and even missing pieces in sealed kits. I stay away now.
If you want to see what you are getting into, hoseeker.net has instructions for a bunch of kits (click the Literature link). It's a great resource.
Have fun!
Aaron