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'Union Station' style windows in HO

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  • Member since
    June 2002
  • From: Pittsburgh, PA
  • 470 posts
Posted by ctyclsscs on Monday, January 22, 2018 9:20 PM

A ruling pen? Wow...weren't they used to draw on cave walls? Big Smile

Just kidding, Wayne. I think I have one around somewhere, but I never fully got the hang of it. I did use Rapidographs for years to lay out ads for print where I worked. I know they still make them, but I wonder what they're used for these days? Freehand drawing?

The one good thing is that both tools may give a thicker layer of ink than you might get with some printers.

Jim

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Fullerton, California
  • 1,364 posts
Posted by hornblower on Monday, January 22, 2018 4:07 PM

I'll second Ed's suggestion to print directly on the acetate.  I have made numerous "factory" style windows using this technique with a laser printer (black only).  You get nice crisp window frames and mullions in flat black directly on the acetate.  Should work for lettering just as well (print a mirror image if you want the lettering on the inside of the glass).  I don't see why this wouldn't also work with a color laser printer.  Wish I had one to try.

Hornblower

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,367 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Monday, January 22, 2018 1:50 PM

Using Mr. Beasley's method you might be able to get away with skipping the "print to decal" step and go directly to acetate:

https://www.staples.com/apollo-transparency-film-for-laser-printers-letter-clear-8-1-2-x-11-50-pack/product_829903

I have used this stuff to make several pieces of "art" including an illuminated passenger train tail-sign (not HO but about 1" to the foot)

I would still suggest printing to cheap paper first to get the scale correct, then print to the clear overhead film. If you don't have a laser printer one of the office supply (Kinko's?) places would print it for you.

There might be an inkjet equivalent but, in my mind, the laser would be less prone to fading or smudging.

This stuff isn't perfectly clear but "good enough" for windows.

DPM makes a nice "Powerhouse" tall window that might make a good "Union Station" style window base.

https://www.walthers.com/modular-building-system-tm-powerhouse-window-kit

 

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Monday, January 22, 2018 12:19 PM

Mark in NVa
A number of early 20th century passenger stations had windows with mullions/muntins that might be described as a "British flag" type design - a cross and "X" combined, dividing each square pane into 8 triangles. Washington Union Station (linked above) is one example. This motif also appeared in gates and other trim. Does anyone know of a source for this type of window in HO scale?....

Back in the olden days, we might have done that effect using a ruling pen, but nowadays it might be do-able using a Rapidograph or even a Sharpie.

The decal option suggested by Mister B is a better choice, though, simply because it's easily repeatable.

I've used masking tape for the simple transom-type windows shown below, first masking for the horizontal members, painting, removing that tape and then, after the paint has fully dried, re-masking for the vertical ones...

This method would be extremely time consuming for the windows that you want.

Wayne

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Monday, January 22, 2018 10:37 AM

Would you believe, easy?

This is a decal I printed myself.  The window is a sheet of clear acetate, the thin stuff that comes with many kits.  I made up the lettering on my computer, and, after printing it first on paper to make sure it was right and properly sized, I printed it on a sheet of clear decal paper, cut the letters out to fit the window panes, and put them in place on the acetate.

I do lettering with Microsoft Word, which lets me resize the letters easily and select the font I want.  For graphics, I use something simple like Microsoft Paint.  That would work for your application.  You only need to make one "frame" of the pattern, then copy and paste it until you've assembled the complete window pattern.  If you can find a square-on image online, so much the better. 

It's been a while since I bought decal paper.  I could not find it anywhere at hobby shops or Walthers, but I ordered a package of 20 sheets from

http://www.decalpaper.com/

which should last me a lifetime.  You need to get the right kind of decal paper for your printer.  Inkjet paper will only work with inkjet printers, and laser paper will only work with laser printers.  Get clear-backed paper.  You can take your image to places like Staples, along with your decal paper, and they can print it on a high-quality laser printer for you.  Inkjet decals need to be sealed with something like clear Krylon spray before you get them wet to apply them.

 

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 1 posts
'Union Station' style windows in HO
Posted by Mark in NVa on Saturday, January 20, 2018 9:54 AM

Union Station Windows

A number of early 20th century passenger stations had windows with mullions/muntins that might be described as a "British flag" type design - a cross and "X" combined, dividing each square pane into 8 triangles.  Washington Union Station (linked above) is one example.  This motif also appeared in gates and other trim.  Does anyone know of a source for this type of window in HO scale?  Or anything that might be used to approximate that pattern?  (I do mean anything -- I found a plastic floor tile that might do the trick in O scale if sliced thin, but nothing close to HO. )

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