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Locomotive painting

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  • Member since
    January 2018
  • 1 posts
Locomotive painting
Posted by NS6920 on Thursday, January 18, 2018 9:09 AM

Hi, I am new to the forum but I would like to know if there is a better way or easier way to paint locomotives nicely without buying an airbrush

 

  • Member since
    November 2013
  • 2,672 posts
Posted by snjroy on Thursday, January 18, 2018 4:39 PM

Hi there and welcome. You can use rattle cans - Tamiya is the high end. You can try other brands but try it underneath the shell of your loco to see if it will harm the plastic. You can also use a brush, using a good one, with good paint that is applied in thin coats. I don't recommend a brush, but a weathered look on steam locos can be achieved. John Allen used a brush...

Simon

  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
  • 18,255 posts
Posted by SeeYou190 on Thursday, January 18, 2018 4:43 PM

NS6920
I would like to know if there is a better way or easier way to paint locomotives nicely without buying an airbrush

.

Welcome to the Model Railroader forums. Your first few posts are delayed by moderators, but that ends soon enough. Please stick around with us.

.

I second the suggestion of Tamiya's spray paints. These give pretty good results without any of the overhead of an airbrush.

.

Post pictures of your project please. Is it steam or diesel?

.

-Kevin

.

Living the dream.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Thursday, January 18, 2018 5:51 PM

An airbrush is an added expense, but painting a loco is not like doing a $5,000 custom paint job on Hells Angel Harley gas tank with skulls and neked ladies. 

In other words the learning curve is not steep and it is great for painting structures and weathering.

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Heart of Georgia
  • 5,397 posts
Posted by Doughless on Thursday, January 18, 2018 6:23 PM

Krylon satin finish.  There are limited colors to choose from, but the dark green, dark blue, burgundy, and black are all a nice shade and finish.  Krylon goes on a lot thinner than most rattle cans.  

If I had pics I'd be proud to show my work.  

Hobby brand rattle cans work well too, but I find them to be overly glossy and therefore they seem to settle a bit thicker than the Krylon.

As with any painting, try it on some test pieces before you go after your favorite loco.  Always keep the can or loco moving (I use a untwisted coat hanger bent into an x to press into the inside of the removed shell), and never try to get complete coverage into every nook and cranny.

- Douglas

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: NW Pa Snow-belt.
  • 2,216 posts
Posted by ricktrains4824 on Thursday, January 18, 2018 9:44 PM

Welcome NS6920!

As far as painting, rattle cans in thin coats will work.

However, once you have an airbrush, you will get more consistent results, but, rattle cans will work.

Just remember, with rattle cans, thin coats... With an airbrush too, but, thin coats will work way better.

Ricky W.

HO scale Proto-freelancer.

My Railroad rules:

1: It's my railroad, my rules.

2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.

3: Any objections, consult above rules.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Franconia, NH
  • 3,130 posts
Posted by dstarr on Friday, January 19, 2018 8:48 AM

I painted this Mantua Pacific with a rattle can.  It was either Krylon or Rustoleum dark gray auto primer.  Both brands are good.  Secrets.  Surface preparation.  You have to get every trace of grease, oil finger prints, rosin, and general scum off.  Use solvents to get the more stubborn grease spots.  Finish up with a wash in hot soapy water, scrubbing with an old toothbrush, a clear water rinse, and a good (day long or more) dry.  Don't touch the model with bare hands after the final rinse. 

   Hold the rattle can maybe a foot and a half back while spraying.  Close enough for the paint to go on wet.  Far enough back that the paint doesn't go on too thick.  Press the button to start the spray well before the can is pointed at the model.  Move the can smoothly across the model and off the other end before letting up on the paint spray.  Move fast enough to put on a thin coat.  If the first coat doesn't cover, you can always give it a second coat.  If the first coat is so thick that it sags and runs, you have a problem, for which there is no fix that I know of.  Practice on a piece of scrap to get the feel of it. 

    Warming the rattle can under the hot water tap will give it a bit more pressure.  When finished, hold the rattle can upside down and give it a good long spray to clear the paint out of the nozzle, so the can will spray the next time.

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Elyria, OH
  • 2,586 posts
Posted by BRVRR on Friday, January 19, 2018 11:03 AM

NS6920,

I use rattle cans as much as possible, just because it is easier than setting up the compressor and airbrush. The exception is when I can't find a match for the necessary color(s).

I have used the Testors and Model Master spray enamels for years, but they are getting to be hard to find.

With a little practice you can achieve good results with the spray cans.

Good luck and welcome to the forum. Welcome

Tags: BRVRR

Remember its your railroad

Allan

  Track to the BRVRR Website:  http://www.brvrr.com/

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