I am using CA adhesive per the manufacturers instructions to glue two painted parts together (instructions call for painting before gluing). It will not stick even after several minutes. This is my first time using CA. Does anyone have any suggestions?
It depends on the kind of CA you're using.
If it's the thin stuff, the kind you get three for a dollar, the joint has to be perfectly smooth, with no gaps. It has no stickiness, so you have to hold the joint perfectly still until the adhesive sets, which should only take a few seconds.
If you have a bit of a gap, get the thicker, "gap-filling" CA, also referred to as slow CA.
If you can, scrape the paint from the mating surfaces. Your joint will only be as strong as the paint's adhesion to the part.
While doing all of this, keep your fingers away, they will stick immediately because of the moisture content in your skin.
You might also want to explore the use of a CA "accelerator" - a spray. Normally I do not seem to need it but during winter when the house is dry as a bone, it seems to help quite a bit. Then again I tend to use gap filling CA for everything,
I really have to wonder about those instructions' advice to mate painted surfaces (or did it merely advise to paint the model before assembly, which is not the same thing as saying the mating surfaces should have paint on them).
Dave Nelson
It is also a good idea to have some acetone handy when using CA. It is a solvent that dissolves fresh CA in case you glue your fingers to somethng. Fingernail polish remover usually contains acetone.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
It is gap filling CA. I think I may need to remove the paint at the joints. This is Walther Chain Link fence so it will be tedious.
How old is the CA? It does have a shelf life. Some better stores keep it in refrigerators to extend the life.
.
I only buy mine from Wal-Mart where they run through inventory so fast that it cannot get old on the shelf.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hello all,
In looking at the Walthers Chain Link Fence Kit (# 933-3125) the description states, "...includes styrene parts for poles, gates and other details and a piece of cut-to-fit chain link fencing material."
It doesn't say what the actual chain link material is made of.
Have you tried using styrene cement?
This will "melt" the styrene so the chain link will actually meld into the parts.
In my experience this will work on painted parts. Be aware that the styrene cement will probably liquefy the paint and has the potential to make a mess.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
This fencing is awkward to assemble. It's actually made of 3 different materials. The posts and gates are styrene, the horizontal top and bottom pieces are thin metal rods, and the chain link material is called tulle. It's the stuff they make bridal veils from.
I painted the fence after assembly. As I recall, I had my best luck lining up half a dozen posts at a time on a work surface and then taping them down, with the angled top hanging over the edge, and gluing the horizontal bars to them with CA. I'd repeat this until I had a long enough section of fence. Then I'd glue on the "chain link" tulle fabric at the appropriate 45 degree angle between the mesh and posts. When it was all glued together and set, I sprayed it with rattle-can silver paint, and when that dried, with Dull-Coat to flatten down the silver color to a dull metallic shade.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
You should have assembled it before painting and also should have washed it with a detergent and warm water to remove the mold release from the parts, along with oil from Your fingers. A thicker CA also works the best, but not so on painted surfaces. Try to refrain from using any accelerator...it weakens the bond, it says so right on the container. I use Zap-A-Gap Medium CA +, but there are others just as good. I have a couple of those kits still laying around, that I did not use...they were just too fragile for My purposes......I scratch built My own out of brass rod and brass I-beams. With the parts soldered together using silver bearing solder. The mesh material is Aluminum (a little bigger than the tulle) glued with the Zap CA. I made the gate a sliding one that actually works. The whole fence is removeable by just lifting it out of the holes that are drilled into the Homasote base and that's why I wanted it more durable.....works like a charm.....all scale 550 ft. of it.
The posts that are longer are the ones inserted into the drilled holes, a 1/2''.
Made a jig out of wood to hold the posts flat on the wood and place the horizontal rods on the posts also held in place by the jig and soldered it all at once. Used Silver bearing solder paste by Solder-It...fast and easy..no need to clean any joint. I used Tamiya Acrylic flat Aluminum paint with an air-brush before installing.
Click on pic's for a larger view.
Take Care!
Frank
Wow, Frank, that's a great-looking fence; kudos!
Deano