That's fantastic. I bet that's what the OP had in mind.
Andrew Roberts
Greenhorn Modeling the B&O
Maryland, USA
After reading feedback from Zstripe and Mel, it seems that a hinged control panel is a better solution than that slide drawer concept- for me. My table layout is in my garage (Florida ) and I don't want a fixed panel jutting out. The modest controls are a Tech 4 dual cab powerpack, and a controller +2 selectors, so the wiring is relatively simple. All wires will be multistrand, not solid, so a few extra inches of wire between the control panel and the table will avoid binding and some wire management (eyelet screws or such) will keep things organized.
Thanks for the feedback!
Cedarwoodron
BRVRR,
That is "A+ Excellent!" Almost exactly the type of setup I'm helping my friend with. In his case, a drop down version (while sensible) would not work since space is very cramped at the control panel of his U-shape layout (with wide curves to accommodate 6-axle lashups pulling 30-car intermodals)
The drawer-deck will be used for the powerpack/control units only. The stranded wiring and cables that are attached to them will be secured with zip ties. The wiring is long enough that the drawer action won't cause any pulling or disconnects.
I like the link that JJ posted, showing the use of a hinged arm. Good one!
Thank you for sharing your photo and info!
________________________________________________________________
BRVRR Here is my version of a 'slide out control drawer.' I used a couple of cheap drawer slides to mount my control drawer.The main throttles and the DCS 50 are in the drawer under the layout table. Power to the individual sidings is controlled with the Atlas Controllers (yellow switches) mounted on the front of the table. The last two controller switches at right control the under-table steam and diesel sound decoders. The red push-buttons control the street and structure lights. The Atlas slide switches at left control the cross-over turnouts and several turnouts on the back side of the layout beyond easy arm's reach. Out of the photo at left is a DT400 throttle, and to the right under the table is the cable (LocoNet) connection to my LocoBuffer-USB and home computer. A Digitrax, DCS-50, Zephyr provides the power and controls the trains on the BRVRR. There are two MRC Railpower 1300 power-packs connected to the jump ports on the Zephyr command station. This arrangement provides the operator(s) with three individual throttles for the trains. One of the MRC power-packs powers the switch motors the other powers the street lights and structure lights. A small 'train set' power supply provides the power for the crossing lights and train detector.
Here is my version of a 'slide out control drawer.'
I used a couple of cheap drawer slides to mount my control drawer.The main throttles and the DCS 50 are in the drawer under the layout table. Power to the individual sidings is controlled with the Atlas Controllers (yellow switches) mounted on the front of the table. The last two controller switches at right control the under-table steam and diesel sound decoders. The red push-buttons control the street and structure lights. The Atlas slide switches at left control the cross-over turnouts and several turnouts on the back side of the layout beyond easy arm's reach. Out of the photo at left is a DT400 throttle, and to the right under the table is the cable (LocoNet) connection to my LocoBuffer-USB and home computer.
A Digitrax, DCS-50, Zephyr provides the power and controls the trains on the BRVRR. There are two MRC Railpower 1300 power-packs connected to the jump ports on the Zephyr command station. This arrangement provides the operator(s) with three individual throttles for the trains. One of the MRC power-packs powers the switch motors the other powers the street lights and structure lights. A small 'train set' power supply provides the power for the crossing lights and train detector.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Hello all,
zstripeYou might want to re-consider Your idea for a slide out control panel...unless You have an idea of how to do all the wiring that will have to slide out with it and where it is going to go when You slide the panel back in.
Good point!
There is a device available, or you could make one, that holds the wires when using a slide-out, drawer-type, control panel.
They look like this.
As the drawer moves in and out the two arms that hold the cables move through a hinged action.
Definitely use straded wire; as has been posted, solid wire will eventually break through the repeated movement- -like bending a paper clip back and forth too many times.
I would also add a loop of cable at the center hinge point; also know as a "Drip Loop", to lessen the strain of the moving wires.
Personally, I prefer a swing-up control panel but to each his own.
I used door hinges, with removable pins, and Molex® connectors so I can remove the panel when necessary.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Allen, that's a nice neat set up. You're not pulling out the whole wiring system, just the power packs.
I like that!
Mike.
My You Tube
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
On my last plywood central, late 80's, early 90's, I made a slide out shelf for the power pack. I don't have any pictures, I'm handy at building with wood, so mine was just a drawer type structure, with wood guides.
The only thing the "drawer" held was the power pack. Only two wires went from the power pack to the rest of the wiring, that was on another panel, that didn't need to slide out. Nice flexible stranded wire. No problems. I wasn't pulling out the whole wiring system, just the power pack.
I think the drawer roller/guide options from a hardware store, or big box store would work fine.
i'll 2nd Mel's suggestion for a panel that that swings down and under the layout instead of one that slides.
The lower back edge of the panel can be hinged with the bottom edge of the fascia so that it swings down, up and under the layout for storage. You can use a loop of wire that hooks onto the panel to hold it under the layout. You'll need to come up with something to support it when being used (maybe eye hooks or wood slides that can be pulled out at an angle that the panel can rest on).
i think if the wires come in from the side, they will twist instead of being bent/unbent when the panel is swung.
I don't have a control panel, but do have a board I mount some electronics on that swings under the layout, out of sight.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
cedarwoodron I tried searching for examples/discussions in the community search utility for under-table shelving to locate my power pack and track controls (DC), but the search results were far off point. Anyone have images of how they mounted their controls? I prefer a slide out shelf to keep things neat. Thanks for any responses. Cedarwoodron
I tried searching for examples/discussions in the community search utility for under-table shelving to locate my power pack and track controls (DC), but the search results were far off point. Anyone have images of how they mounted their controls? I prefer a slide out shelf to keep things neat. Thanks for any responses.
You might want to re-consider Your idea for a slide out control panel...unless You have an idea of how to do all the wiring that will have to slide out with it and where it is going to go when You slide the panel back in. Can't be solid wire, not flexible enough...will weaken when bent back and forth so You would have to use stranded wire. Then they would have to have a lot of excess length wire so it will slide out. Each time hoping that You don't pull one loose. Not a very good idea IMHO.
I prefer the drop down hinged panels like Mel uses:
You can click on photo to make it larger....
Two MRC 20's sit on a shelf right below the panel...this is one of three control panels. You just unplug the handheld and can take it to another panel and plug in...even when trains are running.
Take Care!
Frank
My layout is also DC, with the power pack under the layout, on a shelf....
...an MRC Controlmaster 20, it's connected to a circuit board, just above it, which runs my Varipulse walk-around throttle...
The controls on the layout fascia here are mainly to select one of several walk-round throttles which I have. They're mostly from different manufacturers, and the toggle switches allow me to select which system I wish to use. There are also a couple of switches there which allow me to turn power on or off to certain track sections. Some might think it to be block control for multiple train operation, but it's actually block control to allow me to run one train while another is parked on a passing siding. Since I'm the sole operator, only one train runs at a time, even though it may run with multiple locomotives.
Here's my Varipulse walk-around controller at another town, with that town's track control switches mounted on the fascia...
Each town has similar switches for track control, and a standard 'phone jack receptacle for the throttle's 25' cable. All but one of my turnouts are manually-controlled (Caboose Industries groundthrows or direct finger contact with the point rails on turnouts with integral springs). I will be adding some manually-controlled BluePoint switch machines for turnouts now not within easy reach on the lower level of the layout, an unforeseen by-product of adding a partial second level to the layout.
Because the layout is an around-the-room design, a walk-around throttle is the best choice, as most trains are required to switch the industries in each town through which they pass. The fascia-mounted switches at each town are right at the operator's fingertips, with no other distractions.
Wayne
Check out places like Office Depot and Office Max. You can go to a brick-and-mortar store and look at keyboard slide-out drawers to see what parts they use and how they fit together. You're probably going to want to actually buy the hardware at Home Depot or Lowe's, because you will need a more hefty shelf for power supplies and base stations than you do for a flimsy keyboard.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
"drawer slides" is the term that will help with your search. They come in a bunch of sizes and capacities. Doesn't need to be super beefy, but I wouldn't go too cheap as the extended panel will undoubtedly be leaned on, etc.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I will be helping my wife's cousin install a slide-out deck on his layout for his dcc control setup. Currently, the planned size is 3/8"(thick) x 12"(width) x 28" (length).
Basically it involves installing drawer-type hardware that's similar to the type used for typical computer keyboard desks with slide-out decks. You can find them at Lowes and Home Depot. Very easy to assemble. For the deck, it's preferable to avoid particle board and use either solid wood or wood that has been covered with formica.
I'll post photos after we do it. I'm just wating for him to finish purchasing the rest of the materials.