Just read another thread and learned that there were stronger decal setting solutions. What I have are some old freight cars well built by others but the decals were not set into the wood or plastic. They are intact but need to be set down.
I've always used Walthers Solvaset. I've never tried it on old decals that have already been applied.
Mike.
My You Tube
Solvaset is one of the strongest decal setting solutions; I use it.
You have to be careful to have the decal exactly in place before you apply it, then DO NOT touch it until it dries. Never try to float the decal into place using Solvaset; this is possible with weaker solutions. You can carefully wick excess fluid away with the edge of a tissue or paper towel. Solvaset rapidly softens the decal film so it will settle down into the substrate contours, but touching the decal when soft will wreck it.
After drying overnight, additional applications may be needed. Once the decal is sticking to the substrate, you can blot excess fluid without damage. *** air pockets with a pin and add a drop of Solvaset, it will wick into the pocket. Same for around the edges.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
rrebellJust read another thread and learned that there were stronger decal setting solutions.
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Here is THE STUFF... DACO brand Decal Setting Solution... STRONG formula.
The paraprhase the Wizard of Oz..."It isn't only merely strong, it is really most sincerely STRONG!"
Daco makes three strengths. Weak is about like MicroSol, Medium is like Solvaset, and Strong is INSANE!
It is very hard to find. I bought four bottles from a hobby shop in Germany and paid to have them ship it to the USA. Hopefully it has become easier to get in the past two years.
You will love it, but it is not for beginners. They mean it when they say STRONG!
EDIT: I just checked eBay and MicroMark, none available in the USA. I did a check of online retailers, and Daco Strong is available from a few in the UK. Still Pricey, but like genuine Russian Caviar (which can be bought on line now), and Cuban Cigars (not so), it is worth EVERY penney.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
That is one of the ones I heard of.
Read about someone using nail polish remover to set decals down, anyone try that, kinda know that would fail on plastic by removing the paint, but what about wood (my immediate project)?
Nail polish remover is acetone. As I read your post, I am in the process of cleaning off my drafting table, it's wood, and I just used acetone to get some ink spots off.
I sure it will damage any paint, not sure what it would do to the decal.
rrebellRead about someone using nail polish remover to set decals down, anyone try that?
Nail Polish Remover and Testors Liquid Model Cement are both "Nuclear Options" for decal setting.
If you have a partially set decal that you have no replacement for, and you need it to settle, and nothing else will work, these are your last options. If they work, hooray. If not, the model is ruined.
Only try these when you are at a point where you cannot go back and also cannot move forward.
SeeYou190 rrebell Read about someone using nail polish remover to set decals down, anyone try that? . Nail Polish Remover and Testors Liquid Model Cement are both "Nuclear Options" for decal setting. . If you have a partially set decal that you have no replacement for, and you need it to settle, and nothing else will work, these are your last options. If they work, hooray. If not, the model is ruined. . Only try these when you are at a point where you cannot go back and also cannot move forward. . -Kevin .
rrebell Read about someone using nail polish remover to set decals down, anyone try that?
I used MEK to help set the rivet decals on this mostly-scratchbuilt boxcar...
It was applied with a small brush, in a single pass, adjacent to the decal film where it overlapped three-dimensional panel seams. This was done in desperation, as Solvaset wasn't strong enough. Thankfully, it worked...
Wayne
I have Weld-on 3