Re-motoring a Bowser M1

[snjroy]

I also installed a NWSL motor (with a flywheel) in my Bowser 4-8-4. It runs very smoothly. I removed the original worm gear (with the NWSL gear puller) and installed it on the new motor. You might need an NWSL adaptor if the shaft is too small. Get the biggest motor that will fit, including the flywheel...

Simon

[RR_Mel]

You might check with Motorman, he has a very good assortment of can motors and flywheels.

 

http://www.micro-loco-motion.com/

 

http://stores.ebay.com/microlocomotion

 

I’ve bought several can motors from Motorman.  I installed a Canon EN22 dual shaft motor with a ⅝” flywheel in a Bowser 4-8-4, it runs very smooth.  I have a second Bowser 4-8-4 with a Bowser supplied DC-71 motor and it is a good runner too.

 

I don’t remember where I got the worm gear for the EN22s, I do remember the Pittman DC 70 has a 2.3mm shaft and the EN22 is 1.75mm.

 

If the Bowser supplied motor has the skewed armature (DC-71) I’d give it a shot.  They are a very smooth running motor with good low RPM torque.  To be on the safe side put a pair of 1N5355 Zener diodes across the motor leads to reduce voltage spikes from brush arching at the commutator.

 

I’m running several older locomotives using the DC-71 motors and they perform very nice using DCC decoders.  Warning, the DC-71 motor can draw over 1 amp locked rotor.  Under a heavy load they run at a bit under 800ma.

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[SeeYou190]

My Bowser 4-8-4 is powered using a Northwest Short Line #162-4 kit. This is a single shaft motor with a flywheel on the opposite end. I held the motor in place with Kneadatite. It was an easy installation and has held up well, but I have not run the locomotive much in the last ten years. It is an severe need of a paint job and TLC.

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The NWSL kit says it is for F units and wide diesels, but it worked for me.

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-Kevin

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[cefinkjr]

Going through some very old storage boxes last week, I discovered a Bowser PRR M1 kit that I had bought some time ago, didn't have time to assemble it, and forgot that I had it.  I'd like to finish it but with a can motor replacing the original open frame motor.  Any suggestions of where I can get a replacement can motor?  Will I have to also replace the spur gear on the driver?

At the same time, I will need to add a DCC decoder.  Again, all suggestions are welcome.