7j43kTo answer your question: No. Now, a lot of that is that I've long since given up on this casting, so any other "defects" have been long forgotten. But, to me, a wide-body diesel is a waste of good modeling to work on.
And that is precisely why I am using it. Because if I mess it up, no great loss. If it turns out okay, then it was good practice for the next time I go to build something.
7j43kI DID make suggestion about how to find a drive, so it's not like I'm totally unhelpful, here.
Just wanted to know if there were any other major issues.
Oh, I almost forgot the most important bit -- if it's a really old Athearn drive with the gray motor, you may not be able to convert it to DCC -- they draw a lot of power and could blow the decoder. I've seen them pass 2 amps before they stall. The gold colored motors should be OK.
Go with the Athearn drive. They are old and noisy but tough as nails. We have a few at the club (with can motors) that are still going strong after 40-plus years on the railroad -- and yes, we've converted them to DCC. You can ignore the wide hood if you don't look too closely. :)
If you convert them, you have to isolate the motor from the frame. I like to reverse the brush clips top to bottom (remove them carefully so as not to lose the little brush springs!) then run some kapton tape in the little valley between the motor mount holes. If the motor mounts are really old, they may break, but you can buy new ones.
All that said -- used Proto 2000 GP7s and 9s can be found for $25-$50 on eBay. Similar mechanism (albeit with a chunkier frame), but with a scale width hood and better detail, though that detail does break off easily. Older P2K Geeps may have cracked axle gears, so budget a few bucks to replace 'em.
BMMECNYCOther than the too wide body, do you have any other reasons that dont have anything to do with the internal mechanism?
To answer your question: No. Now, a lot of that is that I've long since given up on this casting, so any other "defects" have been long forgotten. But, to me, a wide-body diesel is a waste of good modeling to work on.
I think you're putting lipstick on a pig, but there's nothing wrong with a more attractive pig.
I DID make suggestion about how to find a drive, so it's not like I'm totally unhelpful, here.
Ed
Bayfield Transfer RailwayProtoPower West used to make converted Athearn chassises with can motors and flywheels, including for the GP9. You can still find them at train shows and Ebay. PPW is still in business and can sell you the frame, trucks, and all parts you need separately, but the assembled ones are quicker and easier.
I will look into them, thanks.
And double thanks. I have a P2k E7 chassis that had a broken coupling, now I know where to get replacements. Just need to find plain bearing endcaps.
BRAKIEAs far as Bachmann's GP7/9 I'm not sure I would trade my last two BB GP7s for five Bachmanns since they don't look all that good with the small fans.
Which is why I buy Atlas, Proto 2000 and Athearn Genesis (normally). $5 for a undec shell seemed too good a deal to pass up.
7j43kI just would not put DCC, sound and interior cab detail into an old Athearn. Top of the list of reasons is the too-wide body.
Other than the too wide body, do you have any other reasons that dont have anything to do with the internal mechanism?
Its at least getting DCC (assuming the cosmetic work goes well). Mostly because a direct current locomotive mostly useless to me.
7j43k Strip the paint and have fun.
One step ahead there, as there is no paint. It is a plain black plastic shell.
Im planning on fully detailing this thing, as there really isnt a valid reason in my mind not to do so. If I mess it up, its a $5 shell. Nothing is lost.
I was considering chop nosing it and making it a Chessie (WM) locomotive. I will have to compare a chop nose kit to the locomotive and make sure the extra wide hood isnt going to make this not feasible.
Alternate plan is INRD 300.
Ed,To my mind that would be a excellent project since most BB engines and freight cars are a foot to wide anyway.That goes for some Roundhouse cars as well.
As far as Bachmann's GP7/9 I'm not sure I would trade my last two BB GP7s for five Bachmanns since they don't look all that good with the small fans.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
ProtoPower West used to make converted Athearn chassises with can motors and flywheels, including for the GP9. You can still find them at train shows and Ebay.PPW is still in business and can sell you the frame, trucks, and all parts you need separately, but the assembled ones are quicker and easier.For that matter, find an early Proto 2000 GP18 and swap bodies (check the axle gears.) First run used GP18s are cheap on Ebay.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
You can get an Athearn drive for this engine by buying a whole engine off of Ebay. It just CAN'T be expensive, at least if you're a shopper.
I just would not put DCC, sound and interior cab detail into an old Athearn. Top of the list of reasons is the too-wide body.
Bachmann makes what I think is a proper width model. And. I note that you can buy an Athearn Genesis for maybe $150 with DCC sound. Strip the paint and have fun.
Old brass EMD GP series locomotives can be had for dirt cheap if you look around for them. I bought an old Hallmark GP at a train show for about $30.00 last year. The body was tarnished. and the model looks just terrible. The early brass diesels were very bad.
.
However, the chassis is rock solid and very well detailed.
This might be an option.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
A while back I stubled upon an Athearn Yellow Box Dummy GP9, decorated for everones railroad (undec). It came with a plastic chasis and trucks with what appear to generic freight car wheels.
What would be a good driveline for this locomotive?
I have seen replacement chasis for F units, dont know if Athearn makes them for GP9.
I would guess that hobbytown makes one, but I am not really thrilled about the prospect of having a visible drive shaft on a locomotive running at eye level.
Another option that I am aware of is NWSL Stanton drive, but since there is no chasis, I would still have to come up with one. Possibly a 3D printed chassis?
My end goal is to have a fully functioning DCC/sound locomtive, possibly with interior cab detail.
Any thoughts?