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Painting an Atlas Undecorated RS-1

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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, November 10, 2017 8:57 PM

mbinsewi

Rich, I've done that, painting in a cold garage.  If it happens to be sunny day, I plan everything, getting all materials together, warm up the paint can in some warm water, go out on the sun lite back patio, or in the garage, get the painting done, and quickly get the painted parts inside.

It works.  Good luck!

Mike.

Thanks, Mike. I have read that submerging the rattle can in warm water for about 5 minutes will ensure a smoother, more consistent spray.

Rich

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Posted by mbinsewi on Friday, November 10, 2017 8:54 PM

Rich, I've done that, painting in a cold garage.  If it happens to be sunny day, I plan everything, getting all materials together, warm up the paint can in some warm water, go out on the sun lite back patio, or in the garage, get the painting done, and quickly get the painted parts inside.

It works.  Good luck!

Mike.

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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, November 10, 2017 8:40 PM

Vito

Rich,

Didn't read all the replies so my apologies if this redundant.  I've painted a lot(close to 100) cars and locos, mostly with an airbrush but some with spray cans.

Not sure if anyone else said this but....I always do a "first pass" paint job on a scrap shell.  That way I can adjust my technique for what ever paint and method(air brush or can) I'm using.  

Thanks for those comments, Vito. I appreciate it.

Rich

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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, November 10, 2017 8:37 PM

mbinsewi

Wow Rich, is there an echo in here?  I swear I just heard that, Laugh  I've done many sraycan and air brush paint jobs.  The airbrush is cool, but before I had one, using a can never stopped me from painting what I wanted to paint.

Mike. 

Hello, Mike, hello, hello, hello.

LOL

Yes, you did hear an echo.

It has been exactly one week to the hour since I started this thread. But, when I read all that Wayne and Kevin have accomplished in the past week, I feel like a total slacker.

Actually, I have made some efforts to move this project forward. Earlier this week, I tried to shortcut the whole process by contacting Atlas Customer Service about the possibilty of a C&WI RS-1 shell that might still be available from a prior run. No dice.

Then, I went up to my attic and sorted through every large storage box, searching for a Badger airbrush that I thought I had seen up there a year or so ago. I do have a can of Badger Propel in the basement, so I know that at one time I bought a Badger airbrush from my LHS, although I never used it. But, alas, I could not find it.

So, I will probably purchase an 8 ounce spray can of C&NW Green in the Scalecoat II brand. My current problem is the outdoor temperature. I will have to do the spray painting in the garage and it is in the 30's out there. So, the painting will have to wait. But, it will get done.

Rich

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Posted by SeeYou190 on Friday, November 10, 2017 6:19 PM

doctorwayne
In the time that this discussion has been underway...

.

I am not as productive as you are, all I have done is paint a boxcar with a three color scheme. Green and cream sides with black roof and ends.

.

I also put decals on a different boxcar.

.

Please... just shoot it wild a quick coat of Krylon Fusion Kelly Green and get this project done! Please post pictures of the final results.

.

This is a TOFC car I painted with cheap rattle cans when I was in high school. Over thirty years later it still looks OK.

.

 

.

-Kevin

.

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Posted by Vito on Friday, November 10, 2017 9:39 AM

Rich,

Didn't read all the replies so my apologies if this redundant.  I've painted a lot(close to 100) cars and locos, mostly with an airbrush but some with spray cans.

Not sure if anyone else said this but....I always do a "first pass" paint job on a scrap shell.  That way I can adjust my technique for what ever paint and method(air brush or can) I'm using. 

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Posted by mbinsewi on Thursday, November 9, 2017 10:11 PM

Wow Rich, is there an echo in here?  I swear I just heard that, Laugh  I've done many sraycan and air brush paint jobs.  The airbrush is cool, but before I had one, using a can never stopped me from painting what I wanted to paint.

Mike.

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Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, November 9, 2017 8:05 PM

Wayne, you are such a party pooper. I was having so much fun till you went and pointed that out.   Super Angry

Rich

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Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, November 9, 2017 8:02 PM

In the time that this discussion has been underway, I have painted four brass locomotives and tenders (multiple-colour paint jobs), and have them very close to being ready for decal work, and painting started on a couple of Branchline reefers.
I've also repaired a damaged brass tender, and some broken details on two of the brass steamers, shortened and rebuilt and detailed a Bachmann tender, and added weight to five Bachmann steam locomotives.

Get the spray can and be done with it!

Wayne

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Posted by Doughless on Thursday, November 9, 2017 7:57 PM

Maybe a good start would be to actually form a consensus about which manufacturer makes a green closest to the C&NW green Rich wants to use, which I think was his actual question way back when......

I think one of the dark green military colors offered by one of the producers would give the best array of choices.  The advantage being that paints for military colors are typically flat, which stick like primer of course.

IIRC correctly, the C&NW loco has really small decals, so there isn't much reason to paint the whole thing glossy.  I would just use a flat paint from a rattle can....one coat....then brush on a bit of Testors Glosscote just where the decal will cover it up.

Better than using a primer.....railroad hobby paint (which is typically gloss)...then dullcoating back to flat for that realistic effect.   All of which, of course, would be three coats.

So if the RS-1 indeed has mimimal decaling, you could probably get a more realistic and thinner overall paintjob by going with the rattle can since you get the final desireable flat finish with just one coat of paint. 

Just sayin'

Also, being less than totally serious, if you mess up painting a plastic loco shell a solid color solely because you used a rattle can, I think you should extend your golf season. Big Smile

- Douglas

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Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, November 9, 2017 7:37 PM

Randy, you are such a party pooper. I was having so much fun till you went and pointed that out.   Super Angry

Rich

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Posted by rrinker on Thursday, November 9, 2017 4:42 PM

 If you used a spray can, by now the engine would be painted and ready for decals...

Just saying..

Have you used a spray can to paint anything else? Did it turn out OK? If so, so will this loco..

                                        --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, November 9, 2017 2:54 PM

GlennK

I would be hesitant to paint an engine this way unless it was the only one I was going to do for the rest of my modelling career. 

It is, and therein lies my dilemma.

Rich

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Posted by GlennK on Thursday, November 9, 2017 2:51 PM

While many have suggested buying an airbrush, no one has offered where the air is supposed to come from.  Oh, you have to buy a compressor too?  

Also, most have offered no downside whatsoever to painting with an aerosol can.  There is one big disadvantage.  Spatter.  Even if you buy a new can from the store, you better do some trial spraying on a newspaper to make sure the can is working properly.  I use spray cans all the time on structures, and scenery accents as well.  I would be hesitant to paint an engine this way unless it was the only one I was going to do for the rest of my modelling career.

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Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, November 7, 2017 4:33 AM

doctorwayne
 
richhotrain
It's Oklahoma, Wayne !... 

Aw,crud!!  I always get those two mixed up 'cause they both got two "a"s in 'em.  
Of course, if I'da sent it to the right place, ya might notta got it anyways, 'cause up here it's spelt Ouklahouma, eh? Stick out tongue 

Wayne 

This certainly explains a lot. Quite often, my wife forces me to watch HGTV, a task worse than airbrushing. It seems that all housing rehabs are done by Canadians. For years, I have wondered what a hooose is.

Now I know.  Whistling

Rich

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Posted by doctorwayne on Monday, November 6, 2017 7:47 PM

richhotrain
It's Oklahoma, Wayne !...

Aw,crud!!  I always get those two mixed up 'cause they both got two "a"s in 'em.  
Of course, if I'da sent it to the right place, ya might notta got it anyways, 'cause up here it's spelt Ouklahouma, eh? Stick out tongue

 

Wayne

 

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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, November 6, 2017 5:40 PM

doctorwayne

 

 
richhotrain
...just to see if you might relent and give me Bertrams after all. 

 

Rich, that was mailed out over a month ago.  I've had good results using the USPS in the past, and am a little concerned.
 I have to admit to being a little miffed about not hearing from you on its receipt, but it never occurred to me that you'd not yet received it.  
Just to be sure, you are still in Kansas, I take it?

Wayne

 

It's Oklahoma, Wayne !

I am used to waiting several months to receive stuff mailed from Canada.

What's with you people?   Laugh

Rich

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Posted by doctorwayne on Monday, November 6, 2017 4:52 PM

richhotrain
...just to see if you might relent and give me Bertrams after all. 

Rich, that was mailed out over a month ago.  I've had good results using the USPS in the past, and am a little concerned.
 I have to admit to being a little miffed about not hearing from you on its receipt, but it never occurred to me that you'd not yet received it.  
Just to be sure, you are still in Kansas, I take it?

Wayne

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Posted by wjstix on Monday, November 6, 2017 10:30 AM

I use the Tamiya spray cans regularly. As has been noted, they are made for (military) models, and spray acrylic paint in a thin, even coating. I use their "Olive Drab" for passenger cars, it's maybe a touch lighter than a Pullman Green - but then, an accurate Pullman green paint looks really dark on a model. You could test it out, but I suspect one of Tamiya's dark green paints (forget all the names, but I think there's a Forest Green and several different specific country's military greens) is pretty close to CNW colors.

Remember too that yellow and green paint fade pretty quickly compared to some other colors, so that dark green CNW paint would lighten over time.

Stix
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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, November 6, 2017 10:21 AM

doctorwayne
 
richhotrain
....But I have to believe that a lot of modelers who are viewing this thread share my reluctance to use an airbrush. 

Rich, I addressed all of your concerns in my earlier reply, and I totally agree with the quote above.  While my reply was directed to you, I hope that others who are in your situation may get some benefit from those words, too.

Wayne 

Wayne, I just may follow your advice and use an airbrush, if for no other reason than just to see if you might relent and give me Bertrams after all.   Smile, Wink & Grin

Rich

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Posted by doctorwayne on Monday, November 6, 2017 9:37 AM

richhotrain
....But I have to believe that a lot of modelers who are viewing this thread share my reluctance to use an airbrush.

Rich, I addressed all of your concerns in my earlier reply, and I totally agree with the quote above.  While my reply was directed to you, I hope that others who are in your situation may get some benefit from those words, too.

Wayne

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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, November 6, 2017 7:30 AM

zstripe

Rich,

I did a little searching and so far the only Mfg'er offering that color in a spray can is Scalecoat.....which is #2036 for scalecoat II for plastics 6oz 9.95. Other brands do carry that color, like Tru-color, but it is not offered in spray cans. I know You use Hobbylinc. but forget it.....their inventory of the paint mfg'ers above is limited to roughly a few colors, none of which You need.

Tamiya does make a color similar to it..but without seeing them both together, it's hrd to say. I have used Tamiya spray paint on numerous occasions, but the Polycarbonate kind for RC bodies and it is easier to spray with, but the colors will be a hit or miss for specific Railroad colors, but they do give out a finer spray and recommend them.

Good Luck! Big Smile

Frank

EDIT: The Tamiya color I was talking about is TS-2 Dark Green....I don't know how close it would be to what You need...but looks close:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/tamiya_spray/kit85001.htm 

Thanks, Frank.

I may have mentioned this earlier, but what got me into this situation was that I decided to purchase an undecorated loco because I needed a second Chicago & Western Indiana (C&WI) RS-1 to pull a string of Pullman cars as the C&WI did with its commuter train from Dolton to Chicago.

The C&WI only ran RS-1s and only Atlas has done a single production run. I was fortunate to find one a few years back which is used to switch five different railroads at Dearborn Station, just like the prototype.  I recently matched up the C&WI green with the C&NW green that I have on a few other diesels. Doggone it if it wasn't almost an exact match.

OK, enough of the history lesson. Later today, I will head up to the attic to check a bunch of large storage boxes. My wife recalls that several years ago the guys at my local hobby shop talked me into buying an airbrush. That is a distinct possibility because the LHS guys always talked me into buying something every time I stepped through the front door of the place.

Rich

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Posted by RR_Mel on Monday, November 6, 2017 6:57 AM

I agree with the many earlier comments on using an airbrush, Sheldon is right on the money.  As far as I’m concerned cleaning is the only hang up, all of the airbrushes come apart easily and quickly.  I keep one paint bottle with an airbrush adapter cap half full of thinner for the paint I’m using and run it through the airbrush when I finish or change colors.  I keep another bottle about ¾ full of the thinner available to drop the nozzle and other airbrush goodies into handy for cleaning.  With a cap on the thinner bottle a quick couple of shakes and everything is clean and can be put on a paper towel for drying, five minutes max, normally three minutes and no mess.  Faster than cleaning and maintaining a brush with less mess.
 
Once you are past the short learning curve you won’t go back to rattle cans.
 
I’m not into using Acrylics on my locomotives or rolling stock, my preference for them is solvent based paint and Acetone as thinner and clean up.  I have a spray booth but rarely use it, a news paper on my workbench works out very good most of the time.  I do have and use a whole house fan when I’m painting, even for Acrylics.
 
I’ve even switched to clear flat for the final coat, it’s a much finer spray from the airbrush than even Testors Dullcoat.
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Monday, November 6, 2017 6:07 AM

richhotrain

 

 
doctorwayne

Rich has demonstrated that he's a very capable modeller and I'm puzzled by his reluctance to give this a try.  

 

 

Well, let's recall that I started this thread to get a recommendation about the best brand of CNW Green spray paint in rattle can since I don't own an airbrush.

 

The reasons for my reluctance are many.

1. I don't own an airbrush. 

2. I have never used an airbrush.

3. I only need to paint one loco.

4. I only have one chance to get it right.

5. I don't have a spray booth.

6. The clean-up process seems messy and time consuming.

7. i am not crazy about messing around with lacquer thinner.

Now, don't get me wrong. I appreciate all of the comments and suggestions made in the replies favoring the use of an airbrush. In fact, I am considering an airbrush based upon the weight of the replies. But I have to believe that a lot of modelers who are viewing this thread share my reluctance to use an airbrush.

Rich

 

Rich, I stated my case and have stayed out of all this back and forth up til now.

Back in the day, when we had to build much more in this hobby, there was a lot more painting to do.

Good model paints have much finer pigments than generic spray cans, again personally, I can't even imagine using a rattle can to paint a freight car or locomotive, my appoligies to those of you who do.

I bought my first air brush at age 13 and never looked back when it comes to painting models.

I don't like acrylic paints, but that's just me, some people love them.

Solvent paints dry slower, I like that. They dry harder, I like that.

Cleanup is not that big of a deal if you do it right away.

Unused paint can be stored for latter use.

It is an easy skill to learn for basic painting, weathering and such takes a little more....

The results will look like it came from a factory in China......

I use Scalecoat because it is gloss, which is better for decals, saving a step, then I spray the whole model with their clear, which can be mixed flat or satin to your liking. 

Good luck,

Sheldon

    

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Posted by zstripe on Monday, November 6, 2017 5:47 AM

Rich,

I did a little searching and so far the only Mfg'er offering that color in a spray can is Scalecoat.....which is #2036 for scalecoat II for plastics 6oz 9.95. Other brands do carry that color, like Tru-color, but it is not offered in spray cans. I know You use Hobbylinc. but forget it.....their inventory of the paint mfg'ers above is limited to roughly a few colors, none of which You need.

Tamiya does make a color similar to it..but without seeing them both together, it's hrd to say. I have used Tamiya spray paint on numerous occasions, but the Polycarbonate kind for RC bodies and it is easier to spray with, but the colors will be a hit or miss for specific Railroad colors, but they do give out a finer spray and recommend them.

Good Luck! Big Smile

Frank

EDIT: The Tamiya color I was talking about is TS-2 Dark Green....I don't know how close it would be to what You need...but looks close:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/tamiya_spray/kit85001.htm

 

 

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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, November 6, 2017 4:58 AM

doctorwayne

Rich has demonstrated that he's a very capable modeller and I'm puzzled by his reluctance to give this a try.  

Well, let's recall that I started this thread to get a recommendation about the best brand of CNW Green spray paint in rattle can since I don't own an airbrush.

The reasons for my reluctance are many.

1. I don't own an airbrush. 

2. I have never used an airbrush.

3. I only need to paint one loco.

4. I only have one chance to get it right.

5. I don't have a spray booth.

6. The clean-up process seems messy and time consuming.

7. i am not crazy about messing around with lacquer thinner.

Now, don't get me wrong. I appreciate all of the comments and suggestions made in the replies favoring the use of an airbrush. In fact, I am considering an airbrush based upon the weight of the replies. But I have to believe that a lot of modelers who are viewing this thread share my reluctance to use an airbrush.

Rich

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Posted by doctorwayne on Sunday, November 5, 2017 7:03 PM

Thanks, guys, for your added support. Big Smile

Rich has demonstrated that he's a very capable modeller and I'm puzzled by his reluctance to give this a try.  I'd guess that most of us have been leery about trying a new method or product, but when we do, we generally find that our fears were unwarranted.

Wayne 

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Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, November 5, 2017 3:52 PM

Rich
 
It’s called experience, using an air brush like an expert doesn’t come without experience.  I was scared to go that route for many years but once I got the hang of it it beats the heck out of rattle cans and you’re not limited the big box store colors. 
 
The guys on the Forum can give you pointers on the type of air brush and its accessories.  I’ve used cheapies and the high end air brushes and they all work very well.  I do most of my painting with a cheapo single action Harbor Freight air brush because its easier and faster to clean after using it.  When I need fine lines or small details I go with a dual action air brush.
 
I have a dozen paint adapter caps to fit the various model paints so I can switch colors and brands of paint easily and quickly.
 
I also use a very light coat of primer on most items I paint; the primer will show up errors before hitting it with colors.  The errors can be repaired before the color is applied.
 
The air brush is the only way to go, once you’ve got the hang of using one it becomes second nature to paint everything.
 
The most important thing about using an air brush is to clean it as soon as you’re finished with it, I’ve got it down to under five minutes to clean up after air brushing.  
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by trainnut1250 on Sunday, November 5, 2017 3:44 PM

Rich,

Gotta agree wth the good doctor here (And others). I have painted thousands  of items on my layout using a paint brush - mostly details but also structures and rolling stock. I also have used lots of various rattle can brands over the years, mostly on scenery and structures.

I bought an airbrush in the last five years to paint locomotives - there is no comparison between the airbrush and rattle cans or paint brush for this purpose. One you learn it, the control is superior to rattle cans and the paint goes on much more evenly than a brush. Can you paint a locomotive with rattle cans? Sure. Is it the best method for this purpose? Not in my opinion.

Rich, you did great job on the scratch build a while back - you'll get this air brush thing. Wayne has some great ideas on how to start.

my two cents,

Guy

see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site

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