Hey all -- yep, I've asked this question about an old Atlas-Kato GP7 (@EMDSD40, I haven't tried the scratch remover yet...)
Now a club member has an Atlas U36C painted for Clinchfield that I'd like to redecal for PC or CR. This is a black-box, DCC-ready example, but it's not marked Silver or Master or anything like that. Can't tell if the markings are paint or ink... from the thickness and a bit of overspray, it looks like the stripes on the walkway and pilot *might* be paint.
Anyone ever try to remove lettering from one of these units?
Thx
Aaron
Hi, Aaron
I haven't removed any lettering from Atlas locomotives but I did recently remove some from Atlas (Branchline) passenger cars.
I use this:
http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/primers-top-coats-thinners-cleaners/paint-and-decal-remover/
I suggest trying less aggressive solvents first and working your way up to the ELO. Shop around, the price varies from vendor to vendor.
Manufacturers use many different formulas for both the body paint and lettering.
It is nearly always a trial and error procedure.
Good Luck, Ed
Try this, lay the unit on it's side and cut a piece of paper towel the same size as the lettering. Lay the paper towel over the lettering and wet the towel with Solvaset. Let it sit for 4-5 minutes then wet it again. After 8-10 minutes total remove the paper towel and the lettering should break up and be free of the carbody. The paper towel keeps the Solvaset on the lettering rather than it running off. Has worked for me on renumberings on a number of manufacturers units. --- Ken
I've read alot about how wonderful a pencil eraser is.
On my Bowser it does not remove the lettering that is the grooves between the door panels on the hood. It does remove all the paint from the hinges on those panels.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
A pencil eraser - I like the one at the end of a pencil - and Solvaset seem to work fine for me. The eraser on a pencil usually has a sharp enough edge that you can get into the little nooks and crannies. Just be patient and don't push too hard and you usually can get the lettering off without damaging the paint underneath.
I like to use a curved bladed hobby knife to gently scrape off the painted lettering, which tends to be raised a bit from the main body. It usually involves having a bit of touch up to the body paint where scraping may have gotten through, but slight weathering or simply relettering over the area conceals any imperfection in color or finish.
I've always had worse luck using liquids as the rubbing tends to degloss the main body paint in a larger area, which often might not be covered with relettering.
- Douglas