The problem I recently run into on one of these is the the gear on the shaft cracked resulting in the belt not being driven. You can only get a replacement of these by purchasing the complete motor part or purchase the complete weight motor assembly or you can purchase a complete chassis unit or last just purchase a whole new model.
Bachmann and MTH are related as rotten tomatoes and therefore I don't purchase their products anymore because of design flaws in products. They could have simply provided a replacement gear for twenty cents and stock hundreds of them for the online store - nope.
Regarding the belts, purchased replacements of these and looked at this under magnificant only to find poorly cut, malformed cogs. It's like the cutter is totally worn out, but they get using it. Poor quality control.
Regarding the worm gear and shaft - I lost one of the shaft bearing. Dropped one of the floor it ricohted in to outter space somewhere. Contacted Customer Service - they said we dont see those parts. You have to purchase the complete chassis. After I bitched and bitched and bitched - someone sent me a new worm gear with bearings that look exactly like the square Athearn bearing. Which don't fit. Try to understand that one.
I took the time to draw the motor gear to drive the belt in CAD. Then printed the part on a 3D printer. When it came time to assemble that is when I dropped one of the bearings I mentioned.
Bachmann's best model locomotives are the ones that remain at the factory.
Found this: posted by Mr Banner Nov 6, 2009
I have never seen a belt wear out in a Spectrum Consolidation (but it is possible.) What I have seen is worn out bearings on the jack shaft. This is the shaft that the belt runs to and also has the worm gear mounted on it. The bushings, one on each end, are about the size of a wedding ring for a mouse. And once the brass wears through, the shaft cuts quickly into the soft metal used for the frames.It is possible to replace these bushings with new ones made of pieces of brass tubing. Cut the tubing as long as will fit and deburr the ends. Set the bushings into a cleaned and degreased frame, using a tiny bit of epoxy to hold them in place in the worn cavities. You can keep the epoxy from getting between the shaft and your new bushings by using gear oil or light grease between the two. Install both bushings and the shaft at the same time so that the shaft can keep the bushing aligned.If you use a tiny drop of light oil on each end of the jack shaft every 50 hours or so, these bushings will outlast the originals.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php?action=printpage;topic=10918.0
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
It is a spectrum. I asked at bachmann forum but couldn't locate Jim's post, here's the answer I got
When the first spectrum 2-8-0s came out, there was a problem with the split casting. The space that holds the bushings for the worm gear axle was not cast completely. So, the worm would not seat properly to the drive gear.Years ago there was a guy who showed how to make larger bushings from brass tube. You can search this forum for Jim Banner, but I don't know if that thread still exists. There weren't many connies that had this issue I believe it was just the first run, anyway.
I owned one of the Bachmann 2-8-0s years ago and my only complaint with it was that the pin that held the side rods in place kept backing out and had to be glued back in over and over again. I now own two Spectrum 2-8-0s and have no complaints about either of them except that they're a bit slow. As for repairing yours. You might consider sending it to Bachmann and see if they can fix it.
I have had the experience of 2 Spectrum engines having worn their drive axle gear in the centre, both a 2-8-0 and a 2-10-0 which went after I had sold it to a friend. I have the replacement gear and ordered it for my friend but neither of us have had a chance to fit the gear itself. I got the replacements from NWSL .
The experience has made me very wary of Bachmann steam engines at least and I doubt I will ever own another one. I could not cope with the slackness of the 2-10-0's siderods almost looking cartoonlike in its motion with the rear drivers appearing to lag the position of the front drivers.
For what it is worth...
Regards from Australia
Trevor
Here is a picture of the loco with a worm.
The worm drives a worm gear on the driver axle.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H836-IS001.PDF
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Leo, that sounds to me as if it's the older Bachmann Reading-style Consolidation. That locomotive had a pancake-type motor, and the drivers could be made to turn, un-powered, by simply pressing down firmly on the loco and pushing it along.
Mine still runs, but has had some detail parts removed and is usually stored. It has been modified somewhat, too...
I do have a number of the Spectrum Consolidations, too, and while they don't look too different from "stock" versions (other than the shortened tenders), they've had some serious modifications to increase their pulling power. Here's one of five currently in service, with a loco weight of 16.5oz, and a total weight, with loaded tender, of of 22.25oz.
The Spectrum Consolidation has a can motor which drives the worm through toothed-pulleys and a cogged belt. If you've had the loco apart and re-assembled it, the worm holder may not have been fully-seated in the frame, or the bearings may have slipped out of the holder or off the worm shaft completely.
Wayne
I know this is a classic engine and hope someone can help answer --
The wheels won't turn but will turn when I press and chassis with the bottom of engine, it seems that the worm gear box doesn't engage fully with the gear on the 3rd wheelset. I already tighten the screws but still.. Is there anyway to fix it? Thanks!