I have a variety of metal wheels 33" and 36" sizes. I have Kadees, Protos and Intermountain. I dropped one today on a magnet and it didn't stick, so what metal are they made of and why?
I use the Intermountain primarily in 33" and I see they are brass. I recall reading before that, from a dirt accumulation point of view, some metal wheels are something like scintered metal, some are turned (machined), etc. Hopefully more will chime in.
http://www.intermountain-railway.com/ho/hoacc.htm
Of course, you will find folks have preferences regarding appearance (e.g., Proto slotted back wheels), dirt accumulation, rolling resistance, fit (axle length) with the original truck, etc.
This Kadee description notes they are not magnetic. Not sure why, maybe just informational unless magnetic would indicate plain steel which might be subject to corrosion and less desireable??
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page520_530.htm
I do recall some wheels are made of sintered metal (sounds like particle board or composite fish cakes); i.e., not machined, which likely is a less smooth surface than machined wheels, perhaps less desireable. I'll bet cost has something to do with the "why" of each type, plastic being a good example.
Reboxx is about as fancy as you get. Seems theirs are brass also. It seems the choices are mainly brass, scintered metal and plastic. Don't know if any are plain steel (which would rust, unless stainless).
http://www.reboxx.com/wheelsets.htm
Good question to raise. My comments are a combination of an elderly memory and speculation.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
The wheels aren't magnetic so they don't get attracted to uncoupling magnets. A long time ago, I remember testing individual trucks on the layout and I happened to roll one set, with steel axles, over a magnet. It quickly reversed direction again and again until it was centered over the magnet.
Many metals are non-magnetic (like nickel silver track)..wheels could be made from just about any of them; I'm sure each manufacturer uses a different metal and they all claim theirs to be the best. Undoubtedly, some are better than others...I buy bulk packs (around 100 wheelsets) of whatever is on sale. Lately, I've been keeping an eye out for semi scale (code 88) wheels because they look better (especially on tank cars and hoppers, where the wheels are more visible) and they operate just as good as the 'regular' (code 110?) wheels.
http://delray1967.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
SEMI Free-Mo@groups.io
As mentioned, Kadee wheels are non-magnetic so that the car is not attracted to the uncoupling magnet.
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I employ Kadee's slick magnetic "hands-off" uncoupling, so the entire car must be non-magnetic. That is a problem because most Ready-to-Run cars have steel weights in them. Unforgiveable in this day and age. It was very difficult to disassemble my BLI hoppers to remove the magnetic weighted slope sheets.
I use brass screws, lead sheet weights, and any other non-magnetic materials when I build freight cars.
Anyway, I only use Kadee wheels and trucks. Metal wheels just sound better to me. A freight with metal wheels makes a very satisfying "swoosh-howl" as it glides acros the rails.
I do not know what metal Kadee wheels are manufactured from.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Kadee makes a big deal of being non-magnetc because this is important with their system of uncoupling. But you'll find many/(most?) metal wheels being produced today are non-magnetic. It's worth checking on this before a quantity purchase if you do rely on track magnets for uncoupling. It's also advisable to use a magnet to check used wheelsets you may acquire, as magnetically attractive wheelsets were more common in the past.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I recently built a "Roundhouse" hopper car. I removed the plastic wheels and installed metal ones. The plastic wheel axles were magnetic.