i read and added to a skewer magnet discussion about this. I have about a dozen magnets to use and cutting a few ties and installing them flat will be easy. so how do they work? I have metal couplers but they seemed to not do there thing when i ran my steel mill area where they are badly needed.
A couple of questions:
What scale are you modeling?
If HO, what code track do you use, code 100, 83 or somerting else? Same info if you in another scale.
Is your intent to use the magnets to uncouple cars while switching? Like using Kadee uncoupling ramps.
What are the dimensions of the magnets?
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Hello jfb, If you are using a "common magnet" between the rails it will not open the couplers. The magnet strength is even through the full magnet and will pull the trip pin (curved wire on the coupler head) downward rather than outward. Kadee uncoupling magnets have their magnet strength on the outside edges which pulls the trip pins in opposite directions and with slack between couplers the couplers will be pulled open. You also have to make sure the magnets are mounted at the correct height which is critical in achieving dependable uncoupling.
Contact me directly at mail@kadee.com if you need more help.
Sam Clarke R&D
Kadee Quality Products
the magnets are the same size as ho track in width and 3 inches long. my track size is code 100. I am using the magnets to unhook cars at my steel mill blast furnace and rolling mill. I am also using the magnets for unhooking cars before the engines return to the round house and coal mine area for loading and dumping purposes at my landfill and refinery area also. so do i need other couplers? this has boggled me for a while otherwise why are they made. I am also open to getting other couplers if needed guys.
Noting Sam Clark's post above explaing how Kadee uncoupling magnets are made. Naturally they are made to work with Kadee couplers, but similar couplers from other manufacturers, like Accumate, should work in a similar manner. It all works on how the couper trip pin interacts with the magnet on the track. This link to the Kadee site explains how their couplers work:
https://kadee.com/animation/c1.htm
jfbcutting a few ties and installing them flat
Don't cut your ties. The Kadee magnets are designed to rest on top of the ties. If they are too low that might be your problem. They are not very strong and need to be close to the couplers. Also you need to have some coupler slack between the cars or they won't unhook.
Thank you G Paine, Kadee uncoupling magnets, between the rails and under the ties (#308), are only 2 inches long.
What type or make of couplers are you using now? Are they knuckle couplers with a curved wire trip pin under the head?
For code 100 rails use our (Kadee) #321 between the rails uncoupler. The #321 will sit right on top of the ties on code 100 track.
Also we'd recommend acquiring our #205 or #206 HO coupler height gauge, this is an essential tool. It checks the coupler height, trip pin height, and the uncoupler heights, and it's a track gauge too. All of these need to be correct for dependable coupler performance.
Although it’s not really possible to tell from his cryptic posting, I don't believe that the Original Poster is using Kadee magnets, but just general-purpose bar magnets. As has been noted in this thread, they won’t work. The dimensions he gives don’t seem to match Kadee magnets.
If the original poster is using Kadee magnets, he should specify the model number, and then folks could give him useful advice.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
I have laid the magnets on top of the ties glued and tried this and they caught the cars and engines. I tried under the track for mounting and they were not strong enough. by the way since i could not get beyond these points how do they work for re coupling?
YOU MUST TAKE INTO ACCOUNT the fact that the North and South poles of a Kadee magnet are along the edges and NOT at the ends of the magnet. This is WHY it works: It separates the trip pins.
Using other magnets no matter how strong will not work as well.
If you have high power magnets (such as salvaged fro hard drives or purchased at All Electronics) you should try TWO of them on the OUTSIDE of the track. Play with it until it works for you.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Maybe I missed the answer...but are you using Kadee magnets or just "regular" magnets you have picked up or purchased somewhere along the way?
Like someone else has stated before "regular" magnets wont "do the trick"
Also because the purpose of the Kadee magnets is to open the couplers, you can not recouple over them It will not allow the couplers to close if working properly
"jfb", many of your questions have already been answered by this group, please read all of the posts and answer the questions we have asked so we can better help you. Below I have mentioned some of the important points from this thread.
*If your magnets are standard common magnets stop trying to use them they "will not work", as I mentioned Kadee magnets are specially designed for uncoupling.
*It is critical to make sure your couplers, trip pins, and uncoupling magnets are at their correct heights.
*The uncoupling magnets are for "uncoupling", to recouple simply push the cars together again but not over the uncoupling magnets. Knuckle couplers are designed to couple by pushing them back together, no other device is needed.
jfbI have laid the magnets on top of the ties glued and tried this and they caught the cars and engines.
If they catch on the couplers then you need to adjust the coupler's "hose" with a pair of jewelry pliers or other tool so that they are the proper height. Use the Kadee coupler height gauge to determine the proper height. I find that I have to adjust every single coupler because they hang too low.
I have said this so many times... Use only Kadee products. They work together flawlessly. Don't try to bring anything else into the mix. Every coupler on the STRATTON & GILLETTE is Kadee, every wheel on every freight car is Kadee, every uncoupler is Kadee, and all freight car trucks (except 1) are Kadee.
.
Oh, how I wish Kadee made a complete trackage system.
I spoke to Sam at the National Train Show and pleaded with him to get Kadee to make HO passenger car trucks. My commitment to buy 7 pairs of six wheel and 9 pairs four wheel trucks might not have been enough to convince him.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
my packages are faded but they look like skewer magnets.
Those probably have the magnetic poles at the ends, so that is why they are not working.
As to the trip pins snagging on the manget, they may be too low. the coupler height gauge mentioned above is an essential tool for reliable operation. I have a #205 gauge and use it to check every coupler before the car goes on the layout. As you see on in the picture on the link below, there is a small shelf below the coupler. If the trip pin is at or below the shelf, it is too low and will snag on things.
https://www.walthers.com/coupler-height-gauge-kit-includes-5-r-58-scale-coupler
The 308 uncoupler mentioned above, is the under track version which is OK when the track is not installed. To add an uncoupler to existing track, you can use the #321 for code 100 track or the #322 for code 83 track. Note that the end of the uncoupler is beveled so, even if a trip pin is a bit low it probably will slide over the uncoupler.
https://www.walthers.com/permanent-magnet-delayed-uncoupler-code-100-1-pair
https://www.walthers.com/permanent-magnet-delayed-uncoupler-code-83-1-pair
You should also get the gluing gig to install them. It places the uncoupler at the correct helght and side to side location on the track
https://www.walthers.com/uncoupler-gluing-jig-for-installing-380-312-321-322-uncouplers