I have a On30 wooden passenger car that I need to decal. It was painted with gloss Rustoleum paint now it needs gold lining. I have the decal stripes, but have never done this before. Micro Set and Micro Sol were recommended, and I will use them.
But, how to people ensure the lines go on stright? Do you pencil in lines and decal over them? Do you build a jig or something? The decals only need to form a box around the lower part of the car, but that means two straight and parallel lines on each axis.
Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks.
Modeling the D&H in 1984: http://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/
First I try to set the decal to line up with some linear feature on the model, as close as I can get it. Then I sight down the side of the model, parrellel to the side. Any dips or bumps in the decal line are easy to see, and can be adjusted.
I do not use decal setting solutions until I am satisfied that the decal is set in place.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Instead of a line drawn with pencil I would just mark a few points measured from the roofline to help keep you on track. If they show through they would be easier to hide with weathering.
If the car or locomotive doesn't have details suitable to use as reference points (rivets, door latches, ladders, etc.) you could apply masking tape as a guide. Place it, sticky-side-down, on a sheet of glass and trim it (on both edges) to a suitable width. You'll still need reference points to to apply it, but those could be the car's eaves or sills. If you need to align the decal side-to-side, you can use a scale rule and a pencil to place alignment marks on the tape. Done carefully, such a guide can be removed and re-used on the other side of the same car.Another good tool to use is a set of dividers or even calipers: set them using an available reference point (eaves or sills if nothing else is available) and you can then use them to check all along a line or both ends of a block of lettering, such as car numbers or reporting marks.
Also keep in mind that a decal can usually be moved an almost infinite number of times as long as you don't apply setting solution to it...simply re-wet it and try again. It's worth the effort unless you don't mind being reminded of your carelessness every time you look at that car.
Wayne
doctorwayneAlso keep in mind that a decal can usually be moved an almost infinite number of times as long as you don't apply setting solution to it...simply re-wet it and try again.
As a further comment to doctorwayne's recommendation, I would suggest not using any decal solutions until after the decal is in place. Just use distilled water. That may go against the advice of several experienced modellers, but here is why I believe in using distilled water only until the decal is in place.
I did a project a while ago that required numerous narrow decal strips to be applied. There were both rivet strips and pin stripes. I started the application process using a decal solution to float the strips. I can't remember whether it was MicroSol or MicroSet, but it doesn't matter. The strips constantly broke no matter how gently I tried to handle them. After pulling most of my remaining hair I decided to just use distilled water. Voila! The decal strips stopped breaking, and I could position them with ease. If the water dissipated I just dipped the brush and touched the edge of the decal where I needed to move it. Once everything was in place, then I applied the Micro Set.
As far as alignment goes, it is kind of like laying straight track. If you look down on the track the wobbles won't show up. If you look at the track from one end the wobbles will stick out like a sore thumb. If you look at the model straight on from the side the irregularities in the postitioning of the stripes will not be all that obvious. However, if you sight down the side of the model looking from one end, then the irregularities will be much more obvious.
Another trick is to take a picture of the side of the model with your digital camera while the decals are still wet and put it up on your computer screen. The picture will reveal flaws that the naked eye will never see.
Good luck!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thanks to everyone for your advice!
Good advice above and I would add one more item; do not cut the decal stripes too long. What is too long? Well, I had to learn that by trial and error. Also, as I lay down the shortened decal stripes, I do not lay the next piece until the previous puppy has been thoroughly set. It takes a bit longer to decal this way, but the results are worth it.
An item of my work using short pieces of decal stripe: