zstripeI have a feeling that the 148 coupler shank is a little slimer especially where the whiskers and hole are compared to a #5 Kadee coupler.
Measured the thickness of four of each: #5's at 0.055" and #158 at 0.049" at the center of the hole.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Randy, there was definitely a lot of vertical play in the coupler box on my SW1200.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Randy,
That would be My guess also...but without measuring..won't know for sure. I'm still going to....as soon as I can find a darn button batt. for My calipers.....no one seems to have it for some strange reason.....My micrometer also disappeared a few months ago.........Last known user was one of My Son's....but You know how that goes.....LOL I really shouldn't laugh..it was not cheap.
Take Care!
Frank
Hmm, I'd almost think they have to be THICKER, Frank. Since there's no more bronze sheet filling up the coupler box. Otherwise there would be a ton of vertical play in there, and I haven't noticed that with all my new builds whish all use #148s, I haven't purchased any #5s in ages. Now I need to fig out my caliper and my box of couplers and measure them.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I am chalking the coupler box up to quality control, or lack thereof, in China.
Bearman,
I never really measured them, but I have a feeling that the 148 coupler shank is a little slimer especially where the wiskers and hole are compared to a #5 Kadee coupler. I say this because on My two engines there is no room to put any kind of shim in the coupler pocket, except of course the bronze plate centering spring. The only way for mine to droop, would be if the coupler cover was not seated correctly and that was My problem in the beginning.
Those coupler covers are a very tight fit where they go in between the pilot footboards.....that is where I had to file them down a bit (the edges) so they would fit all the way down on the coupler pocket. If they are not all the way down, You can still tighten the cover down, but they will droop, because of the angle of the cover.
Glad You got it solved.
The shim worked, and even though I have some 1-72 screws on order, I didnt need to use them. I think the coupler box was just a little too big.
BLI did not distinguish, but the 2-56 diameter was too big.
bearmanI finally heard from BLI, and the screw diameter is supposedly 0.073
Bear
Major diameter (OD of thread) or minor diameter (ID of thread)? 2-56 has a major diameter of 0.086"; 1-72 a major diameter of 0.073". That's probably the size that BLI is referring to.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
The locomotive came factory equipped with KD #148's. What I am going to try to do, is eliminate the springs from a couple of bronze centering springs and use them as shims. I'll see if that works. I finally heard from BLI, and the screw diameter is supposedly 0.073 and the thread length is 4 mm. The thread length seems a little long.
They have to be a Metric size in between 1-72 and 2-56.....sorry I can't measure it for You...batt's dead in my Caliper. I have two of those engines when they first came out and one of them had a drooping coupler. I replaced the couplers with Kadee #5's and used the bronze plate centering spring for all of them. the one that was drooping was because the cover plate had a tiny nub on one side and it would not seat on the coupler pocket, leaving a tiny gap where it meets the coupler pocket side. The cover plate is a very tight fit on the coupler pocket and hard to get in. Maybe look at Yours closely, You may have the same problem. I used a magnifyer light to see Mine. As far as using a shim....I don't know how You could have even got one in there.....the cover plate would have to stick out to do so......mine are that tight a fit...
Good Luck!
Does anyone know the coupler screw size for this SW1200. I have to shim the coupler to keep it from sagging and the screws that came with it are too short. I figure I need 1/8' long screw. The existing one seems to be 3/32" #2-56 will not work, the diameter is too big. And, then, again, it may be a metric size.