Yes - ANY of the modern ones is better than having to peen over the metal nub to hold the coupler assembly together - just try that on plastic cars. The oldest of the metal version of the height gauges I have still has a #4 on it that they used to come with and was assembled that way. The newer metal ones I have just us what looks to be a #5 with a screw run down through it to attach it. I don't have any of the plastic versions so no idea what's included with those.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I've been using the long shank 30 series version, #36, on most of my passenger cars for a long time now. I set them back further on the car for my close coupling, and their long shank and wide swing make for better diaphragm performance with the American Limited diaphragms.
Never really had and trouble with them.
And I do remember those old #4, and #6-8 - the new ones are much better.
Sheldon
dknelson Spring problems? Did you say spring problems? Should you ever see a package at a swap meet, try the old Kadee #4s, #7s or #8s "just to say you did it." Puts hair on your chest (to replace the hair you pull out of your head). Dave Nelson
Spring problems? Did you say spring problems? Should you ever see a package at a swap meet, try the old Kadee #4s, #7s or #8s "just to say you did it." Puts hair on your chest (to replace the hair you pull out of your head).
Dave Nelson
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Lonnie Utah RR_Mel I have the fix for lost springs. https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-27058-Magnetic-Clean/dp/B001DZEF1G An absolute have to have tool for the workbench! That's great. And Ironic. You know how we find lost ferris metal train parts at our house? My 6 y/o gets a couple of his "thomas" wooden train cars (from, techically, our first layout). They have really strong (but small) neodymium magnets at both ends. If our eyes can't spot them, they usually do the trick!
RR_Mel I have the fix for lost springs. https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-27058-Magnetic-Clean/dp/B001DZEF1G An absolute have to have tool for the workbench!
That's great. And Ironic. You know how we find lost ferris metal train parts at our house? My 6 y/o gets a couple of his "thomas" wooden train cars (from, techically, our first layout). They have really strong (but small) neodymium magnets at both ends. If our eyes can't spot them, they usually do the trick!
I only said to try the #252 box and #148 couplers - all the Stewart F units I already have have the old 30 series and I fought those but won. Going forward I would never use another one.
Dave,
Another case where a good pair of needle-nose tweezers is your greatest ally. The fine mating/matching jaws of the tweezers hold the spring securely and keep it from moving when you are trying to set the spring in place onto the securing pin of the coupler.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
RR_MelI have the fix for lost springs. https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-27058-Magnetic-Clean/dp/B001DZEF1G An absolute have to have tool for the workbench!
Lonnie Utah richhotrain The only real issue is holding that spring in place. You said it all. :) With regards to keeping track of that DANG spring, my work bench is over carpet....
richhotrain The only real issue is holding that spring in place.
You said it all. :)
With regards to keeping track of that DANG spring, my work bench is over carpet....
Lonnie Utah With regards to keeping track of that DANG spring, my work bench is over carpet....
Alton Junction
richhotrainThe only real issue is holding that spring in place.
Shame on you Lonnie, that Kadee #38 can be done.
If I can do it, anyone can, and I can do it.
Stick with it, till you get it.
The only real issue is holding that spring in place.
Find a wide open space for when that spring takes a leap.
Rich
Thanks everyone!! Looks like the 252 boxes and the 148 couplers are the best solution for me!!!
I do the same as Randy, with the 252 box and the 148 coupler. That's about all I use.
Clicking on Henry's link, scroll down about 1/2 way, and this same configuration is the first on the list for #38 equivalent options.
Mike.
My You Tube
Be gently once you have the pieces together and it will stay together long enough to get the screw in. Or better yet, do as suggested above (and right on the kadee page for the #38) and use the 252 box and a 148 whisker coupler and avoid all the headaches. Less pieces to deal with and the spring is part of the coupler. I don;t even buy #5's any more, I just use the 148's, so much easier.
I used the Kadee 30-series graft boxes on some Stewart FTs (same as Kevin above) a month or two ago. Yea, it took a little bit to figure them out but they aren't too bad.
The key is to get the torsion spring in, in the correct orientation. This is where needle-nose tweezers are your friend. Once you snap the spring lid into the draft gear box (and it does snap) it's pretty straightforward from there. The exploded view that comes with the 30-series draft boxes really does help:
Put the coupler in the box and the lower cover under the coupler. Place this on the edge of a flat surface so the coupler hose hangs off the edge. The lower cover will now sit flat with the coupler and box above it. While holding everything together put the spring over the center post of the coupler box. Use a tweezers to place the ends of the spring in the holes on each side of the coupler while still holding everything together. Put the top cover on the box to hold the spring in position. Hold the two covers together while you install it wherever it belongs.
Lee
Kadee makes the #252 gear box. This might help.
.
It is similar in size to the #30 series couplers gear boxes, but is accepts a whisker coupler and snaps together. I use these with the #450 Stewart F unit coupler conversion kits with excellent results.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Haha Henry. :)
I've done lots of other kadees without any real issues. But this flavor and I just don't get along.
No help here, never heard of one till now.
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page38.htm
It looks like the coupler box swivels? You probably need someone with small hands, that wouldn't be me
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Title says it all. They drive me crazy.
Any assembly tips/tricks?