This has to do with weathering. I usually use pastels and chalks to weather but they just don't do quite a good of job of filling in the rivets and door lines and seams on the locos. I remember reading something about a thinned out oil paint or something from the craft store but can't find the article. I don't want to use water base acryllics only because I don't want to have to dull coat every loco initially as the dull coats has wrinkled some of my Athearn Genesis decals! I'd like to just do a very thin wash with a thinned oil based paint of some sort to get the small details to stand out and get a little bit of that base "dirty" look. What do you guys all use and recommend? I'm happy with my pastels and sponges for 99% of my weathering.....just need a liquid for the fine details!
Mike
I use acrylic paints in a light wash. I use white paint or burnt umber. Other than a bit of weathering, the only thing that will make rivet details pop on models is shallow angle lighting on the sides of the boiler or tender.
I have never Dull Coated my items after dry-brushing or using washes. They don't need it after acrylics.
For panel joints, rivet heads, and weld seams, you can highlight them using Berol Primacolor pencil from the art shop. Use a pencil a couple of shades lighter than the finish paint on your project, and lightly drag the side of it along the seam or row of rivets. Practice on a discardable piece before trying it on your favorite project. The pencils will cost a buck or three and come in about 60 colors.
My problem with the acryllic paints is oftent they don't want to stick without "wicking away" from the factory painted models. So it doesn't go on smoothly. Dullcoating helps this a bit but as I mentioned I don't want to dullcoat first to do that step.
And the pencils are not a bad idea. However, I'm trying to find something that will have some staying power. The chalks I use will wipe mostly off with a finger so I try to not handle them much. But worse case is if they do need more it only takes a bit to reapply some pastels or chalks.
For the grimey black in the joints seems and rivets I'd like that be a little more permanent. And in case I didn't mention, I model SP mostly. So I know the grime black won't help with rivets and seams on black cars and locos. But for the lark grey of SP it really makes the panel lines, rivets and grates look amazing! If I could just find something that would allow me to skip the step of dull coating.....I'd be happy.
5150WS6 I don't want to have to dull coat every loco initially as the dull coats has wrinkled some of my Athearn Genesis decals
For flat finishes, I have used Testors Dullcote in either spray can or air brush from bottle coatings with no problems. I have found some other brands of clear coats have agressive solvents that can attack decals, even some plastics. When trying out a new brand of spray paint, I give it a test on something that is not important before trying on a model.
For making rivets and other details pop on a dark substrate, I airbrush a light coat of Floquil Grime or similar paint sprayed parallel to the surface. The paint picks up the detail, but does not coat the surface
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Yes maybe I need to try the Testors. I think I was using like a Krylon or something else. And for years I've used that but not sure if some of the manufacturers have changed things or something. Either way that might be the safest bet though.
OP--You didn't specify exactly what you are weathering?
For steam power, to get details to stand out, but without covering them up with chalks or more layers of stuff, Howard Zane recommends using actual powdered graphite available as a lubricant at most hobby stores, and also from Kadee. In real life, the crews of some railroads like but not limited to the Erie used cotton waste and oil to wipe engines clean. This ends up in a somewhat shiny greenish grey appearance that is replicated quite nicely with powdered graphite. Also, the graphite greys down the black paint color such that the details on the model will pop out at you. You spread it on with a soft bristle (large) paintbrush, and it does a fine job of capturing the well-maintained but slightly dirty steam engine look.
You can dust only portions of the model with the powdered graphite, or do the whole thing. Either way, the details will stand out much more. It can be "rubbed in" so as to not rub off the model with handling.
If the graphite ever needs to be removed, it can be removed with a little rubbing alcohol or plain water, and cotton swabs--typically without harming the finish of the model.
John Mock
I've have almost always just dry brushed with "grimy black" or "dust" dependimg on how dark the car or loco is.
I've only recently started using the Bragdon weathering chalks. I fined they hold up a bit better to handling even without a dull coat overthem as they have a bit of a glue or soemhting mixed in them that helps hold the chalk on the model.
Now I've not used this method on cars ( just buildings ) but the one part India ink to ten parts alcohol might be a good was for rivit lines as well. As others have stated try it on an old junker you don't car about first to see if it works for you.
Rob
5150WS6 I think I was using like a Krylon or something else
It depends on the Krylon. The acrylic Krylon clear coats that artists use and have UV protection are OK. I use them to coat my home made ink jet decals; other types could be a problem
I don't know about making rivets pop. A bolt on my toilet is leaking, I'll have to get maintenanace to do something about that, but cn you imagine if a rivet on a stam loco popped! A steamy hot shower of ikky boilr water. Now that would be a mess.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
PRR8259--Well I'm sort of looking for a dirt wash to bring out highlights and lines on everything. SP locos, San Diego Coaster locos and cars and just freight cars in general. I like the idea of the graphite. I'll give that a shot. I have to run to Kadee this weekend to get some couplers anyway so I'll see if they have some graphite as well.
Trolleyboy--Indian ink and alcohol.....I think that's what I want. I think you might have just hit what I was looking for. Something that gets into cracks, crevices and mesh screens to give it some more 3d look. I'm going to try that also! Thanks!
G Paine--Good call on the artists Krylon clearcoat. I use that to coat my vinyl stickers sometimes. Not sure why I didn't think of using that instead! I'll grab an extra can. Thanks for that!
Appreciate the help guys. I'll experiment this weekend and see what I can come up with!
I only tried the powdered graphite on one brass steamer so far, and it does indeed work. When I later desired to sell the engine, I was able to remove the graphite, too. Howard says it does not rub off too easily once rubbed onto the model. I'll have to take his word for that.
Whenever I tried drybrushing paint, the results were too heavy and too intense.
Let us know how you make out with the different methods.
John
When you say "make the rivet lines pop" are your referring to making them stand out on a dark surface or a light surface?
If you are on a dark surface, I would use dry brush technique - practice it first on some scrap to get the hang of it - it only takes a little to get the desired effect. You might also try grey Bragdon's powder and be careful how you handle the model. I have found it sticks pretty well.
I generally use an airbrush to weather locomotives. It is possible to pull out details with it. I start with a rust coat followed by a lighter coat (grey or white) followed by a black control coat. With a fine tip you can highlight details - the dark coat tone things down as the last step. It does take some practice to get good results but IMHO it's worth it.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
5150WS6 PRR8259--Well I'm sort of looking for a dirt wash to bring out highlights and lines on everything. SP locos, San Diego Coaster locos and cars and just freight cars in general. I like the idea of the graphite. I'll give that a shot. I have to run to Kadee this weekend to get some couplers anyway so I'll see if they have some graphite as well. Trolleyboy--Indian ink and alcohol.....I think that's what I want. I think you might have just hit what I was looking for. Something that gets into cracks, crevices and mesh screens to give it some more 3d look. I'm going to try that also! Thanks! G Paine--Good call on the artists Krylon clearcoat. I use that to coat my vinyl stickers sometimes. Not sure why I didn't think of using that instead! I'll grab an extra can. Thanks for that! Appreciate the help guys. I'll experiment this weekend and see what I can come up with!
5150WS6Trolleyboy--Indian ink and alcohol.....I think that's what I want. I think you might have just hit what I was looking for. Something that gets into cracks, crevices and mesh screens to give it some more 3d look. I'm going to try that also! Thanks!
No problem, this is the old george Selios trick he weathers everything on his layout with the basic India Ink and Alcohol wash. But as others have said try some the other tricks and treatments as well. One can never master enough weathering techniques.
Hey guys, just an update......found what I was looking for by accident!Tamiya makes a set of 4 panel line accent color paint. ITS PERFECT! It does just what I was wanting and although it's just thinned paint.....it's premixed and in 4 colors. Really makes the models look great!
Thought I'd pass that along! Here's the link!
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87131_133panel_accent/index.htm
5150WS6...It does just what I was wanting and although it's just thinned paint.....it's premixed and in 4 colors. Really makes the models look great!...
What, no photos?
Acrylics, mentioned earlier, will work better as a wash if thinned with water, with a drop of dish detergent added to reduce the surface tension...
You can also emphasise panels using directional spray with an airbrush, in conjunction with a masking device, such as a simple business card. Hold the card on the panel line, tight to the surface, then spray towards the edge of the card. The paint should be well-thinned...up to 90% thinner. On most boxcars, spray towards- or away from- the door on the left of the car's side, and in the opposite direction on the right side, as most cars overlap the panels in opposite directions to either side of the doors...
If you accidentally make the panel lines too distinct with washes, airbrushed weathering or when using the Tamiya product, you can tone it down with either a light overspray of the same colour, well-thinned, or with a well-thinned application of the car's original colour or a colour close to the original colour.
Wayne